The game's a fucking masterpiece, but it flew under the radar for most people. I didn't expect much from it, but I got one of the most completely engaging JRPGs I've ever played, and I realized while I was playing it that it's probably going to be a long time before another RPG gets me this completely. I think I had a kind of similar experience to you, where it was super cool when the game started, but then you get to a night scene, and it's just like... indescribably atmospheric. Really just masterful stuff.
I haven't played the original, but I've heard it's not as good... I do want to get around to it at some point, though.