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[Tabris]

So I want to pick up a Component Switcher for my PS2, GCN and XBox.

I'm currently interested in this:

http://www.crutchfield.com/S-JXFtYT...15270&I=257JXS111&o=p&a=0&cc=01&avf=N&search=

I'm just wondering if 30mhz will be good enough? Will I lose any quality of picture with a switcher like this?

Is there anything cheaper? Any recommendations?

What do you guys use?

 

[fausty]

I use that exact one and haven't noticed any problems...

 

[bob_arctor]

I think if you're not running on a true hi-def TV (just plain component) than this is overkill--you can use a simple A/V switcher as long as it's not the electronic kind and you keep the cables lined up throughout and it'd work equally as well. Even for hi-def, IIRC, the JVC model doesn't give you enough bandwidth or something like that. There are a couple of realllly nice ones ppl here always bring up--Zextor or something, Audio Authority has one I believe--do a search on the forum and see if anything pops up.

 

[cabel]

I have multiple progressive-scan (component) inputs going into my Sony HDTV -- ReplayTV, DVD, GameCube, Playstation, Xbox.

I am very, very pleased with the Pelican System Selector Pro .

I honestly thought it would be incredibly ghetto, but it works great. Despite their mascot being a totally extreme pelican.

TONS of inputs. Funky green-glowing front nameplates ("GameCube"). Around $90, black or silver, got mine at GameStop. My friend Alex haggled a Mexican shop in downtown Los Angeles down to about $50 for one, but we're pretty sure it was stolen. Plus it was filled with cocaine. Kidding.

-Cabel

 

[Tabris]

I think if you're not running on a true hi-def TV (just plain component) than this is overkill

I am running a true hi-def widescreen TV. So the bandwidth the switcher allows is important. Especially for XBox and later systems.

That Pelican one looks interesting. What kind of bandwidth does it allow?

 

[MoxManiac]

I don't believe the Pelican one is powered, so bandwith concerns are more or less irrelevant.

 

[Tabris]

So you're saying the only loss is from the extra cable length?

I just don't want any picture loss if I can prevent it.

 

[akascream]

I want a pro logic II reciever with 4 or more component inputs so I can use a remote from my couch. I don't like walking around to 3 different switches to get shit working everytime I use a different device.

 

[cabel]

I don't believe the Pelican one is powered, so bandwith concerns are more or less irrelevant.

Oh, it's powered, Tex. Check the DC-IN in the lower-right hand corner. It's definitely fancy, not a plain-old "physical" switcher. Plus it has lights.

As a side note: honestly, can someone explain what in gods name "bandwidth" means in regards to component switchers?

In my case, I know is that I send HDTV signals up to 1080i through my Pelican, and my HDTV TV displays them just fine. But I never once researched "bandwidth".

Is "video bandwidth" something invented by high-end electronics manufacturers to sell more component switchers? Like MONSTER CABLE toilet paper? (Uses ferrite magnets woven into the comfortable, quilted softness to reduces magneto-rectal interference...)

-Cabel

 

[MoxManiac]

Well, don't quote me on this, as i'm not an A/V expert, but my understanding is that non-powered switchers are simply passthrough, so there shouldn't be any signal loss unless the thing is really poorly made. Powered switchers pass the signal electronically hence the importance of bandwith.

 

[MoxManiac]

Bandwidth is simply the frequency range the switcher is capable of sending. The higher the resolution on a HDTV, the higher the frequency needed to transfer the signal. If the switcher doesn't have enough, the signal gets degraded.

 

[Tekky]

To figure out the bandwidth you need, just multiply the pixel resolution by the refresh rate and by about 1.15 or so.

So for true HD 1080i, it's 1920 x 1080 x 30 x 1.15 = 71,539,200 = 71.5 Mhz

Anything less than that, and your pixels will start to blur.

Of course, most non-LCD TVs don't even display true 1080i, so you can get away with much less.

 

[BenT]

That's interesting.

On a progressive display, though, wouldn't the typical refresh rate be 60 rather than 30?

 

[Crazymoogle]

That's interesting.

On a progressive display, though, wouldn't the typical refresh rate be 60 rather than 30?

Yes, but 1080p is a 30fps standard, so your top of the line bandwidth doesn't get a lot higher than that.

 

[Lil' Dice]

I'll take a $200 DD receiver with component switching WITH a remote any day....

 

[Tabris]

I have a 34" Toshiba Widescreen HDTV capable of displaying 1080i, 780p (upgrades to 1080i I believe), 480p and 480i.

All I really care about is the ability to display 480p at the same quality as it is when connected directly to the component source. Since there's not that many games that display at 780p and 1080i.

 

[Tekky]

Yes, but 1080p is a 30fps standard, so your top of the line bandwidth doesn't get a lot higher than that.

You mean 1080i. 1080p is 60fps.

 

[Ferrarisimo]

You mean 1080i. 1080p is 60fps.

I believe both 1080i and 1080p are 24fps. However, 1080p has 1 field per frame, whereas 1080i has 2 interlaced fields per frame.

I haven't brushed up on my tech specs since going on an AV buying spree last year, so I could be mistaken.