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[Übermatik]

I know that it's cheaper to part things out and do it yourself, but is this pc decent for $719 plus tax?

My last pc was a dell back in 2006 and it died in 2010. I've seen videos having that pc run games decently at 1080p.

Eh, spec wise it seems ok, but only ok. Medium/high settings at 1080p I think. Sum of the parts comes to about $550 if my very rough estimate is right, but don't take my word for it. Honestly, you're best building your own.

Anyone please correct me if I'm wrong here! And wait for other people's advice too, but that's just my two cents.

M.2 drives are basically sticks that slot directly into the motherboard itself. Recent motherboards tend to come with a slot by default, and for Ryzen I'd be surprised if any of them didn't. If I'm reading the details right there wouldn't be any substantial performance difference - the advertised read/write speeds being the same - but hey, one's cheaper and won't require a drive bay.

Hm... I'm not exactly suffering for space, drive bay wise - going for the Enthoo Evolv ATX case. Plugging into the Mobo, could that conflict with anything else?

 

[PRBoricua]

I have a hardware question that I didn't feel needed its own thread so I figured I'd ask you guys.

On Wednesday a huge wind storm ripped through Michigan and knocked out power for something like 650,000 people. I haven't had power since 11:05 am on Wednesday.

The temperature is steadily dropping in the house as it hasn't exactly been warm outside and as of 10 this morning, the temp was 44 degrees, just above freezing.

My question, are my two computers safe in this kind of cold? Should I get them out of the house until the power is restored? What I fear is once the power is restored and the heat kicks back on, that because of the cold there will be condensation that may build up on the components. Is this a thing?

Thanks any and all for the help!

 

[JonnyDBrit]

I know that it's cheaper to part things out and do it yourself, but is this prebuilt pc decent for $719 plus tax?

My last pc was a dell back in 2006 and it died in 2010. I've seen videos having that pc run games decently at 1080p.

Unless you've got Amazon credit like anaron's friend to consider (or are anaron's friend), I suggest looking on the likes of Newegg instead, maybe poke around your local Microcenter. For the money you're considering, you could get this thing 80 dollars cheaper.

 

[El Txou]

Is there a decent $500-800 prebuilt desktop on Amazon Canada anyone can recommend for my friend who just wants to play FF XIV?

Í think this is a pretty good deal if he wants to play Final Fantasy XIV, and the other occasional game. Should run most games at 1080p 60 fps in high settings. But it is from Amazon US, maybe it still sits around at 800 in Amazon Canada? Hope your friend finds a good computer.

CYBERPOWERPC Gamer Xtreme VR GXiVR8020A2 Desktop Gaming PC (Intel i5-7400 3.0GHz, AMD RX 480 4GB, 8GB DDR4 RAM, 1TB 7200RPM SATA III HDD, 802.11AC WIFI USB Adapter, Win 10 Home), Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01NBL8BER/?tag=neogaf0e-20

Edit: Just noticed people are talking about this same PC in the posts before mine. I personally can recommend it, I had this computer but I returned it, and bought a another computer and got a 500 dollar discount because of an error from Amazon in the description. I mentioned said error here actually. In my team with this computer it ran most games at 1080p 60fps with settings in the highs, you could crank some to max but not without so hiccups. Still, for the price, I think it is a very good built computer.

 

[gdt]

What cpu/mobo?

i5 4690k 3.5

Mobo Z97

Just need to know what kind of ram to buy...is higher speed better? Would like to order today so I can install it the same time as the 1080ti..


Edit: also, my current 8gb (2x4) would be done after the upgrade right?

Can't make it 24gbs correct?

 

[Vipu]

Have done, I also used Display Driver Unistaller and selected clean install from Nvidia driver installer.

Below is a picture of what my screen looks like - the dots only appear in dark areas though which is weird.

http://imgur.com/TR1SOXb

Where should there be dots?
I dont see any.

 

[JonnyDBrit]

i5 4690k 3.5

Mobo Z97

Just need to know what kind of ram to buy...is higher speed better? Would like to order today so I can install it the same time as the 1080ti..


Edit: also, my current 8gb (2x4) would be done after the upgrade right?

Can't make it 24gbs correct?

Generally speaking yes faster is better, but the result margins only significantly shift with other factors involved. In general you'll be more limited by the fact you have to stick with DDR3 memory I believe.

As for the ram situation - if you got two sticks of 8 GB, I think you can have them slotted in, in a dual channel config, while the 4 GB sticks would be in the other dual channel config for a total of 24. Might be wrong though.

 

[Sqrt_minus_one]

Where should there be dots?
I dont see any.

Ha that will teach me for trying to print screen artifacting!

Guess can only be seen with an external camera - they dont show up in shots didnt realise as imgur and the screen are dark.

Should have used an external camera.


I have reinstalled June 2016 drivers and switched from DVI to displayport in case it was the cable but no luck also GPU-Z recognises it as a GTX 780 but says it has 0 shaders/TMU etc

I guess the GPU is dying / dead.

 

[GreenTornadoX]

Unless you've got Amazon credit like anaron's friend to consider (or are anaron's friend), I suggest looking on the likes of Newegg instead, maybe poke around your local Microcenter. For the money you're considering, you could get this thing 80 dollars cheaper.

Not bad, I'll keep that link in consideration! Reviews on newegg looks generally positive but the negatives keep me looking.

 

[gdt]

Generally speaking yes faster is better, but the result margins only significantly shift with other factors involved. In general you'll be more limited by the fact you have to stick with DDR3 memory I believe.

As for the ram situation - if you got two sticks of 8 GB, I think you can have them slotted in, in a dual channel config, while the 4 GB sticks would be in the other dual channel config for a total of 24. Might be wrong though.

Hmm,

so would this pair of sticks be okay?

Crucial Ballistix Sport 16GB Kit (8GBx2) 1600 MHz Clock Speed DDR3 PC3-12800 240-Pin UDIMM

 

[JonnyDBrit]

Hmm,

so would this pair of sticks be okay?

Crucial Ballistix Sport 16GB Kit (8GBx2) 1600 MHz Clock Speed DDR3 PC3-12800 240-Pin UDIMM

Aye. Though thinking on it, since you already have 2 sticks of 4 GB, why not just get another set, or a single stick of 8 GB? It would cost half as much (for obvious reason), and you're quite unlikely to ever need more than 16 gigs.

 

[gdt]

Aye. Though thinking on it, since you already have 2 sticks of 4 GB, why not just get another set, or a single stick of 8 GB? It would cost half as much (for obvious reason), and you're quite unlikely to ever need more than 16 gigs.

One of the slots is a pain to get into on the far left side. I'd just rather have 2 sticks instead of 4.

 

[Nickerbocker98]

I currently have a 780 Ti for my GPU. I have been considering upgrading to a 1060 or a 1070. Are either cards worth the upgrade?

Also, how much longer do you think my i7-4930K will last me? I have considered switching to the new Ryzen processors, but that requires a whole new motherboard and RAM (since mine are DDR3), and that would be pretty costly.

 

[scitek]

Dumb question, but what happens to my Windows 10 license if I get a new mobo/CPU?

 

[Vipu]

Ha that will teach me for trying to print screen artifacting!

Guess can only be seen with an external camera - they dont show up in shots didnt realise as imgur and the screen are dark.

Should have used an external camera.


I have reinstalled June 2016 drivers and switched from DVI to displayport in case it was the cable but no luck also GPU-Z recognises it as a GTX 780 but says it has 0 shaders/TMU etc

I guess the GPU is dying / dead.

If you put low resolution in windows like 800x600 do you still get those dots?
What is temp of your GPU?

 

[Mystic654]

Dumb question, but what happens to my Windows 10 license if I get a new mobo/CPU?

It just depends what version of Windows 10 you have. If you have the OEM version, You will need a new key.

If you have the retail version you can use it on the new Motherboard without any issues.

 

[Haribi]

Don't know if this is the right place to ask but I didn't wanna open a new thread for it so I hope you guys can help me or rather my friend out here.

She has a laptop that she solely uses to play Sims.
Yesterday she decided to update from Windows 7 to 10 and since then the game doesn't really work like it used to. Before she was able to play on medium settings with a stable framerate, now it's on single digit fps on the lowest settings.

I think I found what might cause this problem. We installed the newest driver for the Nvidia GT 555m but for whatever reason the laptop runs on the Microsoft Basic Display Driver
http://i.imgur.com/yos1D0T.jpg

Why is that and how can we change it so that the GPU runs with the proper drivers?
We tried to manually change the driver in the device manager (like this http://www.pc-magazin.de/ratgeber/w...me-aufloesung-monitor-bildschirm-3195504.html) but it doesn't work either.

 

[kuYuri]

What's the difference between a standard SSD and M.2 memory? How does M.2 fit into the rest of a build, and are there any additional Mobo requirements to use M.2 storage?

I just got an alert from PCPartPicker for this:

Samsung 850 EVO 250GB M.2-2280 SSD:
https://uk.pcpartpicker.com/product/8WZ2FT/samsung-internal-hard-drive-mzn5e250bw?ref=ppxe
£85.98

How does this fare vs. the SSD I chose?:

Samsung 850 EVO-Series 250GB 2.5" Solid State Drive:
https://uk.pcpartpicker.com/product/3kL7YJ/samsung-internal-hard-drive-mz75e250bam
£89.00

Just a heads up for the rest of my config: AMD Ryzen 7 1700, B350 Motherboard, 2x8GB RAM, 500w PSU.

To add, M.2 vs the 2.5 SSD is mostly a difference of form factor. M.2 is good for Mini-ITX builds where space is a premium. The Samsung ones you have listed there are more or less the same speed wise, it's just a form factor difference.

Newer M.2's like the 960 EVO I believe are also NVME based, which make them significantly faster especially for file transfers, but are more expensive as a result.

 

[Nyteshade517]

I forgot to post a couple pics of my PC after building it last week so here they are...

 

[Mystic654]

Motherboard: Asus Rampage V Edition 10
CPU: 6950X
GPU: Titan X Pascal
Ram: Corsair Dominator Platinum Special Edition (Black Out Edition) With Blue Light Bars
Other: EK MonoBlock for Motherboard (It's been Painted, Since I didn't like the silver)
Other: AquaComputer M.2 Waterblock (Nickel Plated)

On-Going Build Log: http://www.overclock.net/t/1610817/...e-labs-thw10-x99-watercooled-i7-6950x-titan-x

 

[Jtrizzy]

Can anyone recommend a ram upgrade, just installed a new ssd, and I'm thing a ram upgrade might do some good, any thoughts? Have a [email protected], a 1070, and I'm gaming at 1080p.

Current:

G.SKILL Ripjaws Series 8GB (2 x 4GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1333 (PC3 10666) Desktop Memory Model

ASUS P8Z68-V PRO LGA 1155 Intel Z68 HDMI SATA 6Gb/s USB 3.0 ATX Intel Motherboard with UEFI BIOS

 

[Vipu]

Can anyone recommend a ram upgrade, just installed a new ssd, and I'm thing a ram upgrade might do some good, any thoughts? Have a [email protected], a 1070, and I'm gaming at 1080p.

Current:

G.SKILL Ripjaws Series 8GB (2 x 4GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1333 (PC3 10666) Desktop Memory Model

ASUS P8Z68-V PRO LGA 1155 Intel Z68 HDMI SATA 6Gb/s USB 3.0 ATX Intel Motherboard with UEFI BIOS

Not sure if RAM can save that, might have to do whole cpu+mobo+ram upgrade

 

[senj]

It just depends what version of Windows 10 you have. If you have the OEM version, You will need a new key.

If you have the retail version you can use it on the new Motherboard without any issues.

What if what I have is a Win 7 Pro retail key that took advantage of the free upgrade to Windows 10? I'm guessing "buy a real copy of Win 10 Pro", but Microsoft made this a bit confusing.

 

[Bloodember]

http://speccy.piriform.com/results/zlZfA1RMSJyzNCp8xWSiSxx

What's your power supply and how old is it?

I have a hardware question that I didn't feel needed its own thread so I figured I'd ask you guys.

On Wednesday a huge wind storm ripped through Michigan and knocked out power for something like 650,000 people. I haven't had power since 11:05 am on Wednesday.

The temperature is steadily dropping in the house as it hasn't exactly been warm outside and as of 10 this morning, the temp was 44 degrees, just above freezing.

My question, are my two computers safe in this kind of cold? Should I get them out of the house until the power is restored? What I fear is once the power is restored and the heat kicks back on, that because of the cold there will be condensation that may build up on the components. Is this a thing?

Thanks any and all for the help!

Your computers will be fine in the cold.

 

[anaron]

That seems like the best she'll get. Only other possibilities would involve getting cheaper machines and buying/installing a better graphics card separately. Stuff like this would outstrip it on the CPU side of things, but only has integrated graphics, while this has a GPU (and a really cheesy case), but has an R7 250 which would not hold up well performance. After looking around today there seems to be a deal for a PC at $639.99, but that would mean leaving the Amazon credit for another day entirely.

Thanks!

I would snatch up the newegg one but it's 839.99 without taxes in Canada.

 

[JonnyDBrit]

Thanks!

I would snatch up the newegg one but it's 839.99 without taxes in Canada.

D'oh, missed the .ca in my searching. Explains why I didn't come across it before.

 

[Jtrizzy]

Not sure if RAM can save that, might have to do whole cpu+mobo+ram upgrade

I'm not looking to do that at all. So is there any point in upgrading my ram?

 

[anaron]

D'oh, missed the .ca in my searching. Explains why I didn't come across it before.

Ha, no worries. With the endorsement, She's gonna go with the cyberpower so thanks again.

 

[Cc23830]

Jeez. I have a ps4 Pro and was amazed. Then i noticed a youtube video about a realistic GTA5 mod. So decided this week to "try" and build a gaming PC. My budget is £1000 so i am glad to have found this thread. Still have no idea what im doing though! Is £1000 going to get me a decent setup that wont be out of date in a year or two?

 

[Vipu]

Jeez. I have a ps4 Pro and was amazed. Then i noticed a youtube video about a realistic GTA5 mod. So decided this week to "try" and build a gaming PC. My budget is £1000 so i am glad to have found this thread. Still have no idea what im doing though! Is £1000 going to get me a decent setup that wont be out of date in a year or two?

Do you need everything for that 1000£? Like monitor and EVERYTHING?

 

[Cc23830]

Do you need everything for that 1000£? Like monitor and EVERYTHING?

No monitor/mouse or keyboard. I meant just for the innards and the case.

 

[lensoftruth]

Anyone in the UK after a PC? I have 2 i7 3930k based systems I need to sell.

 

[Zen Aku]

So I'm planning on getting a 1080ti whenever the 3rd party ones drop.

Should I get a 1440p, 144hz G-Sync monitor?

Or spend even more and get a 4k 60fps gsync monitor? (I know that they're releasing the 144hz version soon)

 

[JonnyDBrit]

Jeez. I have a ps4 Pro and was amazed. Then i noticed a youtube video about a realistic GTA5 mod. So decided this week to "try" and build a gaming PC. My budget is £1000 so i am glad to have found this thread. Still have no idea what im doing though! Is £1000 going to get me a decent setup that wont be out of date in a year or two?

Anyone in the UK after a PC? I have 2 i7 3930k based systems I need to sell.

Would suggest as much.

As for a new build suggestion:
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: Intel Core i5-7600K 3.8GHz Quad-Core Processor (£217.20 @ Aria PC)
CPU Cooler: CRYORIG H7 49.0 CFM CPU Cooler (£40.40 @ CCL Computers)
Motherboard: MSI Z270M MORTAR Micro ATX LGA1151 Motherboard (£124.08 @ Ebuyer)
Memory: Corsair Vengeance LPX 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3000 Memory (£113.39 @ Aria PC)
Storage: PNY CS1311 120GB 2.5" Solid State Drive (£39.47 @ Amazon UK)
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive (£42.85 @ Amazon UK)
Video Card: XFX Radeon RX 480 8GB XXX OC Video Card (£209.99 @ Amazon UK)
Case: Thermaltake Versa H15 MicroATX Mid Tower Case (£30.29 @ Ebuyer)
Power Supply: Corsair CXM 550W 80+ Bronze Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply (£67.80 @ Alza)
Total: £885.47
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2017-03-11 21:02 GMT+0000

Now, could bump up the CPU to an i7-7700k for an extra hundred pounds, or maybe bump up the build quality on other components like the motherboard or the case, though SSD would be the chief recommendation. But overall this is a decent rig for 1080p gaming that should last at least a few years before you'd need to consider swapping out components - probably the GPU first - or bumping down settings to a noticeable degree.

 

[Zel3]

Motherboard: Asus Rampage V Edition 10
CPU: 6950X
GPU: Titan X Pascal
Ram: Corsair Dominator Platinum Special Edition (Black Out Edition) With Blue Light Bars
Other: EK MonoBlock for Motherboard (It's been Painted, Since I didn't like the silver)
Other: AquaComputer M.2 Waterblock (Nickel Plated)

On-Going Build Log: http://www.overclock.net/t/1610817/...e-labs-thw10-x99-watercooled-i7-6950x-titan-x

Finally! Someone else with a nice looking build!

Like your Mobo and Ram, I have the same combo but I'm rocking a EVGA GTX 1080 Hydro Copper instead.

 

[crazepharmacist]

Not sure if RAM can save that, might have to do whole cpu+mobo+ram upgrade

what you mean "save that" He's a got an i7 @4.4 ghz and a 1070. That's a damn good PC.

 

[V1LÆM]

so should i stick with my 6700K and not bother with Ryzen? from what i've seen it would be a downgrade for games. i do a little video editing on the side but nothing serious. mostly my PC is for games.

also would i be dumb to buy a 1080 Ti if i'm gaming at 1080/1440p 60fps? when i say 1440p i mean i have a 1080p monitor an downsample 1440p > 1080p. i was originally waiting for a 1080 ti but ended up getting a 1070.

 

[JurassicUtility]

Are there any other requirements you have? Resolution being the most important.

If you're looking for anything above 1080p I can't make any suggestions, but if you're looking for 1080p I'd check out the Samsung CFG70. It is available in 24" for $300-350 and 27" for ~$450.

It's a curved 144hz VA panel that has FreeSync (70Hz - 144Hz). There have been a couple issues people have been having that thankfully have been a non-issue for me. If you're at all interested in this monitor check out the Amazon reviews (importantly the negative ones so you understand the possible issues you could run into), or let me know and I can sum it up. Personally I could not find another monitor that checked all the boxes, and this one did it.

If you're interested in a comprehensive review/breakdown:

https://pcmonitors.info/reviews/samsung-c24fg70/

If you need anything other than 1080p then obviously this can all be disregarded. =) I've had the monitor for about a week now and the only issue I have is a thin line of purple flickering on the right side of the screen, but only when the screen is black there and only when FreeSync is on, and it usually doesn't bother me (if it does I just turn FreeSync off and it goes away). I guess I should also mention that the stand is quite large and does not allow you to bring the panel within 9" of a wall if you have your desk against one. Otherwise I couldn't be happier and love the monitor for both it's vibrancy and gaming friendly properties.

I picked up this same monitor a few days ago because it seemed like a good compromise between responsiveness and image quality. I'm pretty happy with it so far. Something I've noticed is that fast moving objects in games and movies tend to lose coherency - especially at 144Hz. The image doesn't exactly blur, but fast moving objects will look like a cloud of colored dots. Is there a setting that would reduce this behavior, or is it just the nature of the display?

 

[JonnyDBrit]

so should i stick with my 6700K and not bother with Ryzen? from what i've seen it would be a downgrade for games. i do a little video editing on the side but nothing serious. mostly my PC is for games.

also would i be dumb to buy a 1080 Ti if i'm gaming at 1080/1440p 60fps? when i say 1440p i mean i have a 1080p monitor an downsample 1440p > 1080p. i was originally waiting for a 1080 ti but ended up getting a 1070.

Stick with what you've got right now. A 1080 Ti would be more for downsampling from 4K.

 

[opticalmace]

so should i stick with my 6700K and not bother with Ryzen? from what i've seen it would be a downgrade for games. i do a little video editing on the side but nothing serious. mostly my PC is for games.

also would i be dumb to buy a 1080 Ti if i'm gaming at 1080/1440p 60fps? when i say 1440p i mean i have a 1080p monitor an downsample 1440p > 1080p. i was originally waiting for a 1080 ti but ended up getting a 1070.

I think your money would be better spent on a nice monitor than replacing either your CPU (no point) or video card. Maybe get a 1440p 144+hz gsync IPS panel.

 

[Übermatik]

To add, M.2 vs the 2.5 SSD is mostly a difference of form factor. M.2 is good for Mini-ITX builds where space is a premium. The Samsung ones you have listed there are more or less the same speed wise, it's just a form factor difference.

Newer M.2's like the 960 EVO I believe are also NVME based, which make them significantly faster especially for file transfers, but are more expensive as a result.

M.2 uses specific PCIe slots right? Does NVME require a particular 'class' PCIe slot?

Basically, if you could, what do I need to ensure I have in place for an M.2 NVME SSD? I might as well snap one up if they're on sale/pay the extra for the performance, but I wouldn't want to be doing that if I found that type of storage weren't compatible.

For reference I'll be using a B350 board and Windows 10.

 

[V1LÆM]

I think your money would be better spent on a nice monitor than replacing either your CPU (no point) or video card. Maybe get a 1440p 144+hz gsync IPS panel.

i've tried getting a 1440p monitor (dell u2515h) but i give up. each one (x3) i've got has had either dead pixels or poor panel quality. i'm happy with my cheap benq 1080p monitor. plus i don't i just dont think 1080p > 1440p is a huge step up. and i don't see the point in spending £300 on a 1440p monitor when i'm just gonna buy a 4K monitor probably when the next round or two of cards come out.

 

[Sqrt_minus_one]

If you put low resolution in windows like 800x600 do you still get those dots?
What is temp of your GPU?

I think I know what happened now but thanks for your help, both Afterburner and GPU-Z cannot fully identify or read from the card. So I cant tell what the temps were.

Anyhow I took the card out to inspect it and noticed blackening / burn markson the reverse of the board to where the VRMs sit the pic below just about shows it. Its kind of hard to see but the capacitors/circuitry in that spot is obviously damaged and there is definite blackening of the board I reckon one of the VRMs has fried. I sent an email off to MSI support and I am waiting to hear back but I am only 20 days from end of warranty and the online shop where I bought has shutdown. EEEkkkkkk!!!!!


http://imgur.com/a/G216i

 

[Vipu]

So I'm planning on getting a 1080ti whenever the 3rd party ones drop.

Should I get a 1440p, 144hz G-Sync monitor?

Or spend even more and get a 4k 60fps gsync monitor? (I know that they're releasing the 144hz version soon)

1440p 144hz >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>4k 60hz anyday

 

[Vipu]

what you mean "save that" He's a got an i7 @4.4 ghz and a 1070. That's a damn good PC.

Yeah every i7 is equal no matter is it 1y old or 4y old

 

[Zabojnik]

A colleague of mine has shown interest in buying some of my soon-to-be-put-on-sale components. How much do you reckon I should be asking for ...

- i7 2600k + Arctic Freezer Xtreme cooler
- Gigabyte P67A-UD3P mobo
- Kingston 2 x 4GB DDR3 RAM (HyperX Fury, I think)
- Fractal Design 650W power supply (Newton, I thonk)
- Samsung 840 EVO 250GB

Does ~350€ seem fair? He's not sure about also getting my 970 GTX, but I already told him I'd want 150€ for it. They go for ~200€ around these parts. Friendly price and all.

 

[Meteorain]

Hi guys. I was hoping to get some advice on a PC case as I have a peculiar problem

My current set up is a Fractal Define R4. Great case so far but unforunately I have run into a problem that I've been dealing with for a while now.

My GTX 1080 does not sit flush with the casing at the back once put in the PCI slot my my mobo (ASRock Fatal1ty Z97X Killer).

The damn thing has become a balancing act, and more recently that not my GPU is just cutting out (PC will be on, but the GPU won't activate and I have to wobble it to get it working). It's getting worse, and right now my GPU is just sorta hanging off the slot.

I'm not sure if anyone has a solution for this or is aware of a more friendly case for my set up.

Here's an image of what it looks like currently to get the thing working:

 

[opticalmace]

i've tried getting a 1440p monitor (dell u2515h) but i give up. each one (x3) i've got has had either dead pixels or poor panel quality. i'm happy with my cheap benq 1080p monitor. plus i don't i just dont think 1080p > 1440p is a huge step up. and i don't see the point in spending £300 on a 1440p monitor when i'm just gonna buy a 4K monitor probably when the next round or two of cards come out.

Pairing a 1080 Ti with a, as you call it ,cheap 1080p 60hz monitor (TN I presume?) doesn't make any sense to me. Hm, have you played any games at high refresh rate before (120hz+)?

 

[Bloodember]

Hi guys. I was hoping to get some advice on a PC case as I have a peculiar problem

My current set up is a Fractal Define R4. Great case so far but unforunately I have run into a problem that I've been dealing with for a while now.

My GTX 1080 does not sit flush with the casing at the back once put in the PCI slot my my mobo (ASRock Fatal1ty Z97X Killer).

The damn thing has become a balancing act, and more recently that not my GPU is just cutting out (PC will be on, but the GPU won't activate and I have to wobble it to get it working). It's getting worse, and right now my GPU is just sorta hanging off the slot.

I'm not sure if anyone has a solution for this or is aware of a more friendly case for my set up.

Here's an image of what it looks like currently to get the thing working:

You need to push it up and attach the card to the case with screws.

 

[FeedMeAStrayCat]

I wasn't sure if this was the right thread for this or not, but couldn't find a troubleshooting-specific thread. I'm kind of at my wits end with my desktop PC and was really hoping to get some help on how to proceed.

Backstory: This was my first (and only) PC build. It was built in mid 2012 and was used moderately for about half a year. No issues during that time. However, in early 2013, I began getting a lot of crashes/BSODs. I recall reformatting a bunch of times, but that didn't help. I eventually gave up on the PC and it's pretty much sat in my closet for about 4 years. Just yesterday, I got the PC out and up and "running" again. Obviously, same issues as before.

Here are the specs:

Windows 8 Pro 64 bit
Biostar TZ77B motherboard
Intel Core i5-3570K @ 3.40Ghz (4 cores)
8GB DDR3 1600 Mhz Corsair Vengeance Blue RAM (2 x 4 GB sticks)
Seagate Desktop ST2000DM001 2TB internal hard drive (this is where everything, including Windows, is installed this time)
Kingston 64GB SSD Drive (like a first or second gen SSD; currently have nothing on the drive)
GeForce GTX 570 1GB GDDR5 card

Here are the issues:
- More than occasional BSODs, with various errors (PAGE FAULT IN NONPAGED AREA, PFN LIST CORRUPT, MEMORY MANAGEMENT)
- Hangs a LOT during installations, many times just not proceeding at all (i.e. when installing Steam, etc.)
- Typically unable to download from Windows Update (tried deleting cache and such; can sometimes download a single update or so, but then it hangs on the next; almost always fails to install)
- Occasional reboot loop
- I've also noticed that in the bios, the RAM shows up as 1333 mhz, but these are rated 1600? Memtest shows it at 1600, too. Not sure if this is relevant.

Here is what I've tried:
- Reformatting (many times) several years ago
- Ran Windows Memory Diagnostic (showed no errors)
- Ran memtest; showed MANY errors (10,000+)

How do I proceed from here? Is the RAM the most likely culprit? I'd be very grateful for any assistance anyone could offer.
While I'd love a newer PC, I don't have the money for it. If I need to replace a single part or two here, I'd be willing to (provided cost isn't outrageous, which I don't think it will be).