Go to a bike shop and get a quote and a list of what parts you need.If you don't want to spend that much $$ on it you will at least get an idea of the problems/cost.Then head to a community bike center place.In toronto we have places like CBN and bike pirates.Most cities do have one or two i am certain.There you can get much cheaper parts for it and fix up your bike,they are used yes but at least decent and you will be able to ride.okno said:What ratio are you riding? I'm at 50/18, but would love to go down to 47/18.
I'll take a picture in a bit, but I'm riding an old Fuji Special Toure. Bought it for $70 off someone on Craigslist. The frame itself is in excellent condition (could use some paint touch-ups here and there), but a little heavy for my tastes, although still far, far lighter than my old Trek hybrid.
I have a little bit of a predicament, though... The bike is old, probably late '70s/early '80s old, and thus still has the same bottom bracket and crank and pedals it had when it was first built. The pin in my bottom bracket is worn down, which causes my pedals to be slightly uneven, and when I press down on the right pedal it makes a very audible clicking noise. I know I need to get a whole new crank system, but the problem is that what I have right now is so old and rusted that it might end up being more trouble having it removed and replaced with more modern equipment, and everyone I've talked to so far has told me I won't know how much it'll all cost until I take the bike in and let someone work on it. Do I just order the parts myself, and then have some disassemble and reassemble it, or should I just start looking for a new bike? I love the frame, but I'm also pretty poor. Anyone have experience with something like this?
Liu Kang Baking A Pie said:I actually upgraded to the Trek 1.5 Compact.
It's nearly the same thing but with Shimano Tiagra parts instead of Shimano's lower-end Sora set. I'm not an expert on these things, but the immediately noticeable advantage of going with something that has Tiagra shifters is that you can shift up or down while in the race position on the drop bars, while the Sora has the little knobs on the top part that require you to be holding the bar on top to shift in one direction. Notice in the two pictures that the 1.5's shifters have a second black lever under the silver ones, while the 1.2's second levers are hidden up near the top.
Trek 1.5 goes for $1100 and the 1.2 goes for $880. I hate the placement on the Sora shifters on my cyclocross bike, so I decided to try for something better this time. It's nice to get on an empty road and just put your head down and fly, and to be able to switch gears easily going up and down a hill. I really can't speak about if the ride or parts are particularly better yet as I've only ridden on each bike for a couple days now. They feel about the same. It's one of those things someone with way more experience on road bikes could elaborate on.
Cuban Legend said:
reilo said:Test rode a Gary Fisher Menma, Bianchi Valle, and Specialized Allez Elite. Definitely preferred the Specialized due to the downbars and how much steadier it felt over the more upright bikes.
I don't think I need something as crazy as the Specialized but damn if I wasn't impressed with it.
All three are a bit out of my price range though, but I'm definitely narrowing down towards a downbar bike. Going to test out a Kona Honky Tonk in the future, too.
Awesome bike and a great deal. Now just get rid of that pie plate!excelforward said:
Just picked up a Motobecane Nomade, from a used bike dealer here in Chicago. He's an amateur bike mechanic, and fixed up decently. I'll probably want to get a new chain sometime soon, as someone replaced a few links at one point with pretty crappy ones. Other than that, I'm going to get new rims/tires for it sometime next year as the tires are a bit meh (but will last) and the chrome has blistered a bit on the wheels.
This bike is fantastic though, shifts like a dream and rides great. I'd say it was a pretty good steal at $145.
Kung Fu Jedi said:I've got a nice road bike, bought a great Specialized a few years back, but now I'min the market to replace my aging mountain bike too. Thinking of buying something in the $1000 range. Recommendations?
xxracerxx said:Awesome bike and a great deal. Now just get rid of that pie plate!
Seth C said:
That's my ride. An old Huffy Scout. But I only paid $9.50 for it.
Seth C said:That's my ride. An old Huffy Scout. But I only paid $9.50 for it.
Liu Kang Baking A Pie said:The Bad Boys are fucking sweet hybrids. Enjoy it, Doc.
Kraftwerk said:I work at a cycle shop so might be able to help ya
If you want to get into biking for the reasons you described i would HIGHLY recommend spending around $500 and getting a Giant rapid.It's perfect for what you want to to do and the quality is amazing,since giant is the biggest bike company they can afford to make such good bikes at low costs.You can also upgrade it as you go along if you get more into biking.
heres the link http://www.giant-bicycles.com/en-US/bikes/model/rapid.3/3875/36257/
It a light bike and no customer yet has had anything but praise for it.
Happy biking
p.s-if you still want to spend less try to find a giant FCR 3 on ebay/craigslist- the fcr is what the rapid used to be called 1-2 years ago so you will get it cheaper.
Thai said:Thanks for this post, I actually bought a Rapid 3 this week. Loving it so far!
Only problem is the seat, my ass hurts like hell after 2.5 hours of riding it yesterday. Is it just a matter of getting used to it?
Thai said:Thanks for this post, I actually bought a Rapid 3 this week. Loving it so far!
Only problem is the seat, my ass hurts like hell after 2.5 hours of riding it yesterday. Is it just a matter of getting used to it?
Liu Kang Baking A Pie said:You just have to get used to the hard road saddles. You'll appreciate them once the initial soreness wears off and you can ride for hours in relative comfort.
Seth C said:
That's my ride. An old Huffy Scout. But I only paid $9.50 for it.
Have to remember that if you're wearing a bib or shorts that they have padding built in. If you're going to be wearing those you don't really need a comfortable seat. I know I want to get rid of my only slight soft one for a much lighter, harder one.OuterWorldVoice said:Or you could get a reasonably small gel saddle and be comfortable forever and not live with chafed duckbutter.
When I rode the AIDS Ride, at the end of the day, the most fatigue you'd see was ass and wrist, even after 100 mile days. I'd roll in with ass and balls and wrists happy for the straight bar riding position. The weight benefits of a small saddle are ludicrous in comparison with hours of ass/ball comfort. You sweat that difference in an hour or two.
It's junk you buy for cheap in markets.Antimatter said:Schwinn still make good road bikes? I know next to nothing about them but my uncle has a Varsity that he rides that's at least 30 years old.
_Bro said:Speaking of my bike, I bought an Shimano Ultegra 6500 Crankset. Going to need to buy a new bottom bracket but I'll be getting a cycling club discount at the shop. New derailer too
Found out that to switch my shifters from down tube to anything is going to cost around $300+. Fuck
Just go to your local bike shop. They'll have the good brands and the knowledge.Antimatter said:Really? What is generally the most reliable brand then, also is there a good forum dedicated to biking that anyone could direct me to?
Exilexc said:this is the kind of bike i actually want.
Antimatter said:Really? What is generally the most reliable brand then, also is there a good forum dedicated to biking that anyone could direct me to?
ch0mp said:Assuming you mean this kind of valve, undo the screw so it looks like this:
Then pump it up.
Jugendstil said:It looks easy to use and the price is right. Any other suggestions?
Antimatter said:Really? What is generally the most reliable brand then, also is there a good forum dedicated to biking that anyone could direct me to?