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Guitar Gaf |OT| Fingerpickin’ good

Surfinn

Member
Do not get a Floyd Rose unless you are prepared for frustration when you break a string or are willing to shell out money to pay someone to do it. Learning to string a guitar can be enough, but when you throw in a FR you might hate it. Once you learn how it works it's alright, but it takes more work to switch strings than a hard tail.

Schecter necks are a bit thinner than Gibsons. Ibanez necks are even thinner, but I'm not a fan of those necks. You may also want to look into an ESP EC256, hands down best $400 guitar I've played. But it's all opinion and preference.

What's your plan for amplification? Do you want an amp or do you want to skip that and do an amp sim on your computer?



Agreed, S-Gear is really good. I don't use it since I have an Axe FX now (and turning up my amps has never been an issue for me) but when it got added to the Steven Slate Everything bundle (lots of mixing plug-ins) I tested it out and I was surprised at how good it was. If you are ok with paying for it, that's the one to get IMO. But there's a lot of free stuff out there that can sound amazing if you learn how to do it. Nick Crow Labs for amp sims, find some good IRs and you can get a great sound for free.
How much better do you think axe FX is in comparison to s-gear? Is the price justified in terms of sound quality? Did you still get that slight clipping on long sustained notes with distortion? That's something that's always bugged me about modeling.
 
I'm left handed and can't really see myself playing right handed.

I have small paws and noticed it mentioned that the neck on this one was thin.

Play left-handed. Don't work against how your brain is wired. I often watch YouTube videos of lefty players in a mirror beside by iMac, otherwise I can't make sense of it. Even the guitars look wrong.

Is there a local musical instruments store you can try/buy from? I suspect that thin necks give me pain in my small hands, but I haven't narrowed it down that far yet. You might find you like a different shape neck. Your selection as a lefty is going to be more limited, but you can get a very nice guitar in your price range. If you even want to spend that much.

I would not buy that Schecter for your first guitar. Nothing against Schecter, but it has a Floyd Rose, which is hard to restring and tune; I think beginners should avoid tremolo until the basics are down. I will once again pimp rondomusic.com for first guitar buyers. It has a good selection of lefty models. They are inexpensive, but well-built, with adequate electronics to learn on and upgrade later if you stick with it. Or buy used gear. There are plenty of good deals from Guitar Center or Reverb.
 

Trojita

Rapid Response Threadmaker
My brother said I might have trouble playing guitar like he did since our knuckles and joints swell up and joints hurt easily.
 

Syncytia

Member
Playing electric? Maybe try .09 strings? Different neck thickness? I know heavier strings are popular nowadays.

That's just cause the cool kids all want to djent 4 steps tuned down. Including me but not tuned terribly low. I do have like 13-76 on my 7 string.

I'll have to get back to you on the S gear and Axe FX tomorrow night. Didn't have the Axe FX when I tried S gear and haven't compared them. It depends slightly what you need though. I need something I can take with me and it isn't going to be a computer lol.
 

Surfinn

Member
That's just cause the cool kids all want to djent 4 steps tuned down. Including me but not tuned terribly low. I do have like 13-76 on my 7 string.

I'll have to get back to you on the S gear and Axe FX tomorrow night. Didn't have the Axe FX when I tried S gear and haven't compared them. It depends slightly what you need though. I need something I can take with me and it isn't going to be a computer lol.
Thanks!

Jesus 13 would kill my hand. 10 is hard enough.
 

NEO0MJ

Member
My brother said I might have trouble playing guitar like he did since our knuckles and joints swell up and joints hurt easily.

So much of what you're saying applies to me as a fellow southpaw with joint problems! Unfortunately I only ever played a Squire Strat so I can't give you good impressions about the width of different guitar necks.

Like others said, it might be better to go with the non-FR version of the Omen. Easier to play and maintain plus you save some money on it. Another option from Schecter is the Stealth C-1, it's on sale now.

Syncytia's recomandation of the ESP LTD EC-256 also seems like a solid choice. There's also the ESP LTD KH-202 and while it doesn't seem as versatile as the EC-256 based on what I watched on youtube it might fit better with the sound you want.

Like others said, Amp or no Amp? Might want to consider the Marshall MG15CF if yes.
 

Trojita

Rapid Response Threadmaker
Do not get a Floyd Rose unless you are prepared for frustration when you break a string or are willing to shell out money to pay someone to do it. Learning to string a guitar can be enough, but when you throw in a FR you might hate it. Once you learn how it works it's alright, but it takes more work to switch strings than a hard tail.

Schecter necks are a bit thinner than Gibsons. Ibanez necks are even thinner, but I'm not a fan of those necks. You may also want to look into an ESP EC256, hands down best $400 guitar I've played. But it's all opinion and preference.

What's your plan for amplification? Do you want an amp or do you want to skip that and do an amp sim on your computer?



Agreed, S-Gear is really good. I don't use it since I have an Axe FX now (and turning up my amps has never been an issue for me) but when it got added to the Steven Slate Everything bundle (lots of mixing plug-ins) I tested it out and I was surprised at how good it was. If you are ok with paying for it, that's the one to get IMO. But there's a lot of free stuff out there that can sound amazing if you learn how to do it. Nick Crow Labs for amp sims, find some good IRs and you can get a great sound for free.

Play left-handed. Don't work against how your brain is wired. I often watch YouTube videos of lefty players in a mirror beside by iMac, otherwise I can't make sense of it. Even the guitars look wrong.

Is there a local musical instruments store you can try/buy from? I suspect that thin necks give me pain in my small hands, but I haven't narrowed it down that far yet. You might find you like a different shape neck. Your selection as a lefty is going to be more limited, but you can get a very nice guitar in your price range. If you even want to spend that much.

I would not buy that Schecter for your first guitar. Nothing against Schecter, but it has a Floyd Rose, which is hard to restring and tune; I think beginners should avoid tremolo until the basics are down. I will once again pimp rondomusic.com for first guitar buyers. It has a good selection of lefty models. They are inexpensive, but well-built, with adequate electronics to learn on and upgrade later if you stick with it. Or buy used gear. There are plenty of good deals from Guitar Center or Reverb.

So much of what you're saying applies to me as a fellow southpaw with joint problems! Unfortunately I only ever played a Squire Strat so I can't give you good impressions about the width of different guitar necks.

Like others said, it might be better to go with the non-FR version of the Omen. Easier to play and maintain plus you save some money on it. Another option from Schecter is the Stealth C-1, it's on sale now.

Syncytia's recomandation of the ESP LTD EC-256 also seems like a solid choice. There's also the ESP LTD KH-202 and while it doesn't seem as versatile as the EC-256 based on what I watched on youtube it might fit better with the sound you want.

Like others said, Amp or no Amp? Might want to consider the Marshall MG15CF if yes.

Thanks for all the info. Sorry for not answering the amp question. I would be going with an amp.
 

blackjaw

Member
That's just cause the cool kids all want to djent 4 steps tuned down. Including me but not tuned terribly low. I do have like 13-76 on my 7 string.

I'll have to get back to you on the S gear and Axe FX tomorrow night. Didn't have the Axe FX when I tried S gear and haven't compared them. It depends slightly what you need though. I need something I can take with me and it isn't going to be a computer lol.

I was big on 12s for a while and then put 10s on one day and never went back, so much easier in my fingers and hands and while they weren't as "full" sounding the physical benefits well out weighed the tone
 
We live in a golden age of good quality, inexpensive guitar equipment. You can buy perfectly adequate starter guitars or amps for $200 from any number of manufacturers. You can improve amps with speaker (and/or tube, if you go that route) swaps, but I don't think a new guitarist notices those shortcomings right away. The Boss Katana is worthy of consideration. You get Boss' entire lineup of pedals to assign, it's plenty loud, lightweight, simple to operate. If you'd rather try tube amps, a good basic one is the 15W Monoprice. These go on sale all the time, but they also sell out quickly, on-sale or not. At this stage of my development, I prefer an amp with preset voices, and I like those offered by the Fender Super Champ X2 and the VOX AV series.

I still like to experiment with string gauges and types, but prefer D'Addario as a manufacturer. I was surprised recently when I discovered a pick material that I could hear make a difference in my tone: Dunlop Ultex. Try out different straps, too. A comfortable strap is worth the money, and a bad strap will keep you from playing.
 
Thanks for all the info. Sorry for not answering the amp question. I would be going with an amp.


Please do not go with the Marshall MG15CF though. The whole range had a lot of quality issues and I have heard a lot of bad things about them. What is your budget for the amp?

You can look up the Yamaha THR amps, they are pretty good amps for home practice use. The new Boss Katana amps are very good as well. You can also check out the new Marshall Code amps and the new line of Line 6 Spider amps. And if you want a really cheap modeling amp, go for the Fender Mustang series. The only thing about them is that they are a bit outdated compared tot he other amps I listed, but you'll get them for cheap.
 

NEO0MJ

Member
Please do not go with the Marshall MG15CF though. The whole range had a lot of quality issues and I have heard a lot of bad things about them. What is your budget for the amp?

Huh. I recommenced it on the basis that Marshalls seem to be favored among heavy sound guitar players.
 
We live in a golden age of good quality, inexpensive guitar equipment. You can buy perfectly adequate starter guitars or amps for $200 from any number of manufacturers. You can improve amps with speaker (and/or tube, if you go that route) swaps, but I don't think a new guitarist notices those shortcomings right away. The Boss Katana is worthy of consideration. You get Boss' entire lineup of pedals to assign, it's plenty loud, lightweight, simple to operate. If you'd rather try tube amps, a good basic one is the 15W Monoprice. These go on sale all the time, but they also sell out quickly, on-sale or not. At this stage of my development, I prefer an amp with preset voices, and I like those offered by the Fender Super Champ X2 and the VOX AV series.

I still like to experiment with string gauges and types, but prefer D'Addario as a manufacturer. I was surprised recently when I discovered a pick material that I could hear make a difference in my tone: Dunlop Ultex. Try out different straps, too. A comfortable strap is worth the money, and a bad strap will keep you from playing.

This is definitely the golden age for affordable quality gear. When I first started I played a beat up crappy single-bridge Hondo Les Paul copy with action as high as the Everest. I look at these starter packs with Ibanez Gios and a Floyd Rose style tremolo systems for under $200 and it's crazy what beginners can have today! It's also a total buyers' market in the used market these days as well. $200 can get you a killer used guitar these days.

I do like the Boss Katana. I almost got the 50w, maybe some other day. It's an incredible deal for $99.
 

Surfinn

Member
Anybody try using the Blackstar Fly 3 for recording/micing? Curious to see what that would sound like for a quiet alternative to recording direct.
 

blackjaw

Member
Anybody try using the Blackstar Fly 3 for recording/micing? Curious to see what that would sound like for a quiet alternative to recording direct.

I use it direct into GarageBand sometimes (headphone out), it's decent. Distorts way too quick with any boost/OD in front of it but otherwise has a good voice.

Prefer using Orange 35RT for direct recording as the clean doesn't distort as easy and the speaker sim is a bit warmer
 

Surfinn

Member
I use it direct into GarageBand sometimes (headphone out), it's decent. Distorts way too quick with any boost/OD in front of it but otherwise has a good voice.

Prefer using Orange 35RT for direct recording as the clean doesn't distort as easy and the speaker sim is a bit warmer
Thank you for this. I might buy an orange amp for this purpose, heard a lot of good stuff.
 

blackjaw

Member
Thank you for this. I might buy an orange amp for this purpose, heard a lot of good stuff.

Cabsim is amazing on the 20 and 35 series, not so amazing in the Micro series strangely enough.

I play my 35RT 90% of the time while my AC15 sits in the garage (way too cold to go out to wait for tubes to warm up and play and it's way too loud to play with kids sleeping/napping).
 

zbarron

Member
How often are you all changing your strings? I have three stringed instruments and I pay about $7 for strings once a month. That's $21 a month or twice my Netflix bill. I don't know how you all with tons of guitars do it.
 
How often are you all changing your strings? I have three stringed instruments and I pay about $7 for strings once a month. That's $21 a month or twice my Netflix bill. I don't know how you all with tons of guitars do it.


I use elixers and swap my strings out about every three months. Not really any specific timeline, just when they start to sound dead and I can notice the build up on the G and B strings.
 
How often are you all changing your strings? I have three stringed instruments and I pay about $7 for strings once a month. That's $21 a month or twice my Netflix bill. I don't know how you all with tons of guitars do it.

I play my guitars (11!) in spurts, and change them if they need it when I want to play a particular one. Unfortunately I am out of strings and they all need it.

I also buy in bulk on the internet to save a few dollars (or more) a pack. All but one of my electrics are set up to use the same gauge (.011-something, wound third) so that makes logistics easier. I put coated strings on my acoustics which greatly improves their life; I don't on electric since I bend a lot so it is lack of elasticity more than corrosion that ends them (though it is corrosion too if I leave them).
 
How often are you all changing your strings? I have three stringed instruments and I pay about $7 for strings once a month. That's $21 a month or twice my Netflix bill. I don't know how you all with tons of guitars do it.

No set schedule. Just whenever they feel and sound dull. Whenever Guitar Center has their sales I stock up on Ernie Balls. Usually it's 1 for $5, but one sale periods they sell 3 for $10. Ebay is also a great place to buy strings in bulk.
 
How often are you all changing your strings? I have three stringed instruments and I pay about $7 for strings once a month. That's $21 a month or twice my Netflix bill. I don't know how you all with tons of guitars do it.

"Huh. When did I install black strings on this guitar? Oh..."
 
"Huh. When did I install black strings on this guitar? Oh..."

MtQJRAs.jpg
 

blinkz

Member
My ESP with Floyd Rose basically has black strings on it.. After changing the strings on it a few times it wasn't worth the aggravation when I hardly played it anyway.

I don't know how people who play with a Floyd Rose as their #1 guitar do it.. Changing the strings was like preforming guitar surgery.
 
How often are you all changing your strings? I have three stringed instruments and I pay about $7 for strings once a month. That's $21 a month or twice my Netflix bill. I don't know how you all with tons of guitars do it.

I use to do it every month. Now, I just do it when they get to feeling bad. I use Elixirs on my acoustic, and they last a good long time. I use GHS on electric, but they don't last as long.
 

Surfinn

Member
My ESP with Floyd Rose basically has black strings on it.. After changing the strings on it a few times it wasn't worth the aggravation when I hardly played it anyway.

I don't know how people who play with a Floyd Rose as their #1 guitar do it.. Changing the strings was like preforming guitar surgery.
Yup which is why I specially ordered a guitar that's got a fixed bridge. What a headache.
 
My ESP with Floyd Rose basically has black strings on it.. After changing the strings on it a few times it wasn't worth the aggravation when I hardly played it anyway.

I don't know how people who play with a Floyd Rose as their #1 guitar do it.. Changing the strings was like preforming guitar surgery.

Yeah its annoying. Somehow, 2 of my 6 guitars has a licensed floyd. There are some tricks to make the restringing process faster, biggest one being to use a 9 volt battery to block the bridge before restringing so you dont have to constantly adjust the bridge tension again. In the end though, they are good if you have a tech to do it for you :p Sometimes those crazy Dime/Satch squeals are worth it...sometimes :)

My Viper Deluxe with Sperzel locking tuners is still my favorite guitar, especially since I can pick it up and not worry about having to restring it if the thing is gets out of tune too much :)
 
How often are you all changing your strings? I have three stringed instruments and I pay about $7 for strings once a month. That's $21 a month or twice my Netflix bill. I don't know how you all with tons of guitars do it.

Last two times on the les paul is when I wanted a different tuning, so I only changed so I could have different gauges.

My LTD probably has the originals from 2014. I bought it used in 2015 and I haven't changed them.
 
I change them out every once in a while. Since one of my Strats has vintage tuning machine heads, I some times need more than just the set of six strings as I end up breaking one or two along the way.

I ended up just buying a 25 set of D'Addario EXL110s. Much easier to manage than a bunch of packs of strings lying around the house.
 

Syncytia

Member
I pretty much only change strings whenever I break one. Which probably isn't often enough as far as string changes go. I don't think I ever get to the point where I notice they start sounding bad though.

Anybody try using the Blackstar Fly 3 for recording/micing? Curious to see what that would sound like for a quiet alternative to recording direct.

Look into the Yamaha THR10. Was pretty surprised when I tried one out.

Also... I'll have to get that Axe FX and S Gear comparison tomorrow... or hopefully at least this weekend. I'm pretty curious to hear how they compare.
 

Surfinn

Member
I pretty much only change strings whenever I break one. Which probably isn't often enough as far as string changes go. I don't think I ever get to the point where I notice they start sounding bad though.



Look into the Yamaha THR10. Was pretty surprised when I tried one out.

Also... I'll have to get that Axe FX and S Gear comparison tomorrow... or hopefully at least this weekend. I'm pretty curious to hear how they compare.
Thanks a lot.

What is the difference in the sound quality of something like recording direct with this Yamaha amp and something like s gear? Isn't it the same type of amp modeling or does the hardware make a real difference?
 

blackjaw

Member
I pretty much only change strings whenever I break one. Which probably isn't often enough as far as string changes go. I don't think I ever get to the point where I notice they start sounding bad though.



Look into the Yamaha THR10. Was pretty surprised when I tried one out.

Also... I'll have to get that Axe FX and S Gear comparison tomorrow... or hopefully at least this weekend. I'm pretty curious to hear how they compare.

I owned a THR10, fantastic practice amp, but it is literally 5 times the price of a Fly 3 and honestly the effects are only ok (the clean is great). I'd save the $$ and get a Fly 3 which has fantastic clean and decent dirt with a decent tape delay...for 1/5 of the price.
 
So a week ago I went down to a guitar center and bought a new guitar. I was interested in an explorer, and right now all the music stores are clearing out their 2016 models. So I ended up getting an explorer faded, which originally was $1299, but marked down to $999. I also traded in my ibanez rg7421, which I got $150 for, which is also what I paid for it. Then I got another 10% off the gibson due to trading something in. So after tax I only paid like $820 or so. I think I did pretty good.

I'm excited for it. I've always liked explorers, but didn't like how they all came with ugly pickguards, which is one reason I went for this model. I also like the plain wood look as well. It also only has 2 knobs instead of the standard 3, and has the switch by the knobs, as well as the input jack on the front. It needs a set-up though, as right now the action is way high, but expected as most guitars come like that from the factory.

huge box
VpOKlSb.jpg


the new gibson next to my epiphone
DAg8amc.jpg


only came with a gig bag though, as you need to spend a lot more now for gibson to give you a hard case.
tKX3tRa.jpg
 
Sounds like you did good. But judging from those pics.. Did you really need a deal? :p

Yes. The two explorers ,two of the pedals on the ground and the Mesa 1x12 cab are the only things that I paid for. Everything else my dad bought and is his, because I'm still a poor student living at home and he makes a lot more than I do.
 

Surfinn

Member
Yes. The two explorers ,two of the pedals on the ground and the Mesa 1x12 cab are the only things that I paid for. Everything else my dad bought and is his, because I'm still a poor student living at home and he makes a lot more than I do.
Was joking, it crossed my mind that maybe it wasn't all yours. But congrats on your deal, ya did good.

I more said it out of jealously. I want that space.
 
Was joking, it crossed my mind that maybe it wasn't all yours. But congrats on your deal, ya did good.

I more said it out of jealously. I want that space.

Oh don't worry I'm jealous too of what my dad buys sometimes.

Anyway, I'll probably be keeping my epiphone explorer, but I might try modding it. The killpot doesn't work anyway, so I need to do some fixing.
 

Surfinn

Member
Oh don't worry I'm jealous too of what my dad buys sometimes.

Anyway, I'll probably be keeping my epiphone explorer, but I might try modding it. The killpot doesn't work anyway, so I need to do some fixing.
You work on your guitars? I'm brand new to it, just leaned how to inonate lol. Do you know the best way to open nut slots a little? I got a graphite nut installed but I'm still getting strings caught. When I bend I drop in pitch, then the strings slowly get sharp as they slide back into place.

And good luck on the killpot.
 
So a week ago I went down to a guitar center and bought a new guitar. I was interested in an explorer, and right now all the music stores are clearing out their 2016 models. So I ended up getting an explorer faded, which originally was $1299, but marked down to $999. I also traded in my ibanez rg7421, which I got $150 for, which is also what I paid for it. Then I got another 10% off the gibson due to trading something in. So after tax I only paid like $820 or so. I think I did pretty good.

I'm excited for it. I've always liked explorers, but didn't like how they all came with ugly pickguards, which is one reason I went for this model. I also like the plain wood look as well. It also only has 2 knobs instead of the standard 3, and has the switch by the knobs, as well as the input jack on the front. It needs a set-up though, as right now the action is way high, but expected as most guitars come like that from the factory.

Very cool!! Did you get a photograph of your guitar getting set up at the factory? I like that touch with new Gibsons. I love the faded models, I got a 2017 Gibson SG Faded and it rocks! Unfortunately the 2016s got fucked over when it comes to the hard case, they're not necessarily cheaper because of it. The 2017s come with a hard case at $1299 original cost, whereas the 2016s did not at $1299 (before the drop to $999). For some reason they decided to be cheap last year.
 
Do you know the best way to open nut slots a little? I got a graphite nut installed but I'm still getting strings caught. When I bend I drop in pitch, then the strings slowly get sharp as they slide back into place.

I would try putting graphite (such as from pencil lead) or a little vaseline/chapstick in the slots before attempting to widen them without nut files.
 

Surfinn

Member
I would try putting graphite (such as from pencil lead) or a little vaseline/chapstick in the slots before attempting to widen them without nut files.
It's frustrating because my nut is MADE out of graphite. :( which was the entire point of the replacement. But thanks for the suggestion.
 

Quikies83

Member
Hi guitarGAF!!
I picked up a few new things this week:
Orange PPC112 cab with the Micro Dark 20w amp head.
I'm amazed at this thing (micro dark). Huge value!
I'm playing with a Schecter C-1 platinum diamond series with EMG active pickups.
Very happy with this setup!

Any other micro dark users out there?
 
I just used a make-shift block on my Ibanez EX to lock my floating Floyd Rose tremolo in place.

Took 3 wooden paint-stirrers, taped them together, slid them behind the tremolo block. Easy peasy.

They sell an adjustable $40 kit on Amazon too - you just screw it into the spring-shaft inside the guitar and it holds the tremolo block in place.

But I always go the cheap route.
 
It's frustrating because my nut is MADE out of graphite. :( which was the entire point of the replacement. But thanks for the suggestion.

Huh.

I have done the following, but a quick Google earlier didn't find anyone else suggesting it which is why I didn't suggest it earlier.

Loosen the string for the slot in question. Like completely loose. Get some fairly fine sand paper and fold it over the string for the slot you want to widen. Use it and the string to widen the nut slot. If you have the fold upwards you shouldn't make the slot any deeper.

Someone speak up if this is terrible advice.

Here's a useful page on how to cut nuts properly.
 

ExMachina

Unconfirmed Member
Huh.

I have done the following, but a quick Google earlier didn't find anyone else suggesting it which is why I didn't suggest it earlier.

Loosen the string for the slot in question. Like completely loose. Get some fairly fine sand paper and fold it over the string for the slot you want to widen. Use it and the string to widen the nut slot. If you have the fold upwards you shouldn't make the slot any deeper. You

Someone speak up if this is terrible advice.
I've seen this method recommended before, so should be ok.

Vid example here around the 4:45 mark:

https://youtu.be/yfmrmlnG_p8
 

Surfinn

Member
Huh.

I have done the following, but a quick Google earlier didn't find anyone else suggesting it which is why I didn't suggest it earlier.

Loosen the string for the slot in question. Like completely loose. Get some fairly fine sand paper and fold it over the string for the slot you want to widen. Use it and the string to widen the nut slot. If you have the fold upwards you shouldn't make the slot any deeper. You

Someone speak up if this is terrible advice.

Here's a useful page on how to cut nuts properly.

I've seen this method recommended before, so should be ok.

Vid example here around the 4:45 mark:

https://youtu.be/yfmrmlnG_p8
Thanks so much for this. I'll try it out.
 

Syncytia

Member
I've seen this method recommended before, so should be ok.

Vid example here around the 4:45 mark:

https://youtu.be/yfmrmlnG_p8

As someone who has done a lot of woodworking, absolutely no problem with doing this. It's probably a really good option especially if you need to do every slot for thick strings.

But yeah, this is absolutely fine go for it. Like the guy says though, go slow. Sanding stuff down, especially when it it's small, can go surprisingly fast. And be sure to use a high grit sand paper as he mentions. If it's low grit (really rough) you will take off a lot of material really fast, and then need to increase the grit anyway to smooth it out.
 
Huh.

I have done the following, but a quick Google earlier didn't find anyone else suggesting it which is why I didn't suggest it earlier.

Loosen the string for the slot in question. Like completely loose. Get some fairly fine sand paper and fold it over the string for the slot you want to widen. Use it and the string to widen the nut slot. If you have the fold upwards you shouldn't make the slot any deeper. You

Someone speak up if this is terrible advice.

Here's a useful page on how to cut nuts properly.

Yup, I did this one my DIY guitar. Sandpaper under string and rub it together onto the nut slot. It totally worked! You just have to be careful and keep checking. If you file off too much, you'll have to replace the nut.
 
I realized if I one day wanted to sell my Hello Kitty collection (Hello Kitty Strat and strap, pink VOX DA-5 and pink VOX cable),

JPMPrhL.jpg


I would lose my favorite bedroom amp. This will not do. Found another on Reverb.

qjy2BZZ.jpg


Might pick up a red one if I stumble across it at the right price. Not a huge fan of camo, but as with guitars, I am sick of black amps.
 

blinkz

Member
I moved from Florida to North Carolina recently and I never took the fact your guitars are affected by the weather too seriously. Man I was wrong... my intonation has gone to hell. I love my guitars but guitar maintenance is a pain.
 
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