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"I need a New PC!" 2012 Thread. 22nm+28nm, Tri-Gate, and reading the OP. [Part 1]

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S

Smokey

Member
·feist·;33942508 said:
Cooler Master Cosmos 2

JyStD.jpg
kOd38.jpg
Click to expand...


This looks amazing :O
 
F

Fugu

Member
I'm not really sure where to post about this, so I'll post it here and move it if it's not where it belongs.

I'm fairly experienced with the building and maintaining of PCs, but I've encountered a rather pressing issue that is making my computer nearly unusable. Basically, it will lock up or force restart under any significant amount of load at all. I've been having this problem for about two days, and it's rapidly progressed from my computer being usable for a few hours at a time to it locking up instantly when I start up certain programs (Prime95 fails to begin, for example). Sometimes it happens so rapidly that it occurs while the computer is booting; this property has allowed me to verify pretty well that it's not a software problem.

All of my temperatures are normal, I am not receiving any abnormal errors from windows (it does not BSOD, and it only acknowledges that bad things are happening if it crashes during startup), and there are no artifacts. All of my components are (now) running stock, and I haven't changed any of them in about a month. All of my PSU voltages are low but within the ATX range, although I don't own a multimeter so I'm getting these numbers through HWmonitor, not directly from the PSU. Previously, my stability was rather good (my uptime has been in months), although every once in awhile the computer would crash in the same manner -- everything would lock up, and whatever sound was playing when it crashed would repeat until I turned the computer off or restarted.

I suspect that the problem is the PSU. However, I don't really have the means to test this, as I don't have access to a PSU that can support my configuration. I can't exactly isolate other components either, as attempts to stress test are brought to a grinding halt (see above). What do you guys think?

My config is...
i7 920
4870x2
4 HDD (1 IDE, 3 SATA)
6GB DDR3
Corsair 750W PSU
 
T

teh_pwn

"Saturated fat causes heart disease as much as Brawndo is what plants crave."
Fugu said:
I'm not really sure where to post about this, so I'll post it here and move it if it's not where it belongs.

I'm fairly experienced with the building and maintaining of PCs, but I've encountered a rather pressing issue that is making my computer nearly unusable. Basically, it will lock up or force restart under any significant amount of load at all. I've been having this problem for about two days, and it's rapidly progressed from my computer being usable for a few hours at a time to it locking up instantly when I start up certain programs (Prime95 fails to begin, for example). Sometimes it happens so rapidly that it occurs while the computer is booting; this property has allowed me to verify pretty well that it's not a software problem.

All of my temperatures are normal, I am not receiving any abnormal errors from windows (it does not BSOD, and it only acknowledges that bad things are happening if it crashes during startup), and there are no artifacts. All of my components are (now) running stock, and I haven't changed any of them in about a month. All of my PSU voltages are low but within the ATX range, although I don't own a multimeter so I'm getting these numbers through HWmonitor, not directly from the PSU. Previously, my stability was rather good (my uptime has been in months), although every once in awhile the computer would crash in the same manner -- everything would lock up, and whatever sound was playing when it crashed would repeat until I turned the computer off or restarted.

I suspect that the problem is the PSU. However, I don't really have the means to test this, as I don't have access to a PSU that can support my configuration. I can't exactly isolate other components either, as attempts to stress test are brought to a grinding halt (see above). What do you guys think?

My config is...
i7 920
4870x2
4 HDD (1 IDE, 3 SATA)
6GB DDR3
Corsair 750W PSU
Click to expand...

Remove 2 video cards, test again.

If it passes prime 95, add 1 video card, test again.

If it passes, swap video cards. If it passes, but continues to fail with 2 then yes it's power.
 
F

Fugu

Member
teh_pwn said:
Remove 2 video cards, test again.

If it passes prime 95, add 1 video card, test again.

If it passes, swap video cards. If it passes, but continues to fail with 2 then yes it's power.
Click to expand...
It's a 4870x2. I can't test with one card. I can't test with zero either, as I have no onboard.

Also, Prime95 doesn't stress the video card at all.
 
K

Kadey

Mrs. Harvey
Is GPU fan or anything going haywire? I know when I had my 4870X2, that thing was a huge power hog and it overheats fast.
 
L

Lulubop

Member
Any deals on Cases? Looking on spending around $100. I'm still kicking myself for not jumping on some of those deals newegg had around Black Friday.
 
K

Kadey

Mrs. Harvey
Open your PC and try to see any sort of lights going on on your motherboard, gpu, etc when it locks up. That may be an indication of what could be wrong.
 
S

scy

Member
·feist·;33940357 said:
Samsung 830. 64GB ~$110.
Good performance from one of the only companies whose reliability has been Intel-like, or better. Alternatively, where performance and reliability/customer service are concerned: Intel 510, Corsair Force GT, Intel 320. 320 is the slowest of the lot.

If you had more time, the Intel 520 should be high on that list, but they're still working out the kinks.
Click to expand...

I ended up just getting an extra M4 since Crucial got me a bit of a discount due to the situation. Figure it'll let me just work with the two 64GBs and wait for the 520 as a real step-up replacement. That and hoping that the alleged firmware fix in the works does, in fact, work to fix the issue so I have more than a 5000 hour lifespan on them.
 
B

Bleepey

Member
Once i finish with school, i wanna build my first PC. Do you think i could build one for about £300 that could run all modern games at a decent frame rate and fairly future proof. I wanna be able to play PC games without needing to look at the specs for the next few years.
 
F

Fugu

Member
Kadey said:
Open your PC and try to see any sort of lights going on on your motherboard, gpu, etc when it locks up. That may be an indication of what could be wrong.
Click to expand...
It crashed while I was looking at it and I didn't notice -- visually or audibly -- that anything had gone wrong until I tried to use it.

Is there any reason why a CPU running at stock voltages and normal temperatures would crap out like this?
 
S

Skel1ingt0n

I can't *believe* these lazy developers keep making file sizes so damn large. Btw, how does technology work?
I said "DAYUM" at that Cosmos II case. I remember reading about it in Maximum PC's "Dream Machine" a few months back; but at the time, I figured there would inevitably be something I don't like about it.

Gotta say, that's a freaking FINE looking case. I was pretty much dead-set on a Corsair 800D for my next build; but I think Cooler Master may have just ganked the top spot.





Question, though. I've never done more that 2-card SLI/CF, but even then, when putting two cards right next to each other, they suffocated... a lot. So how do people get away with four cards next to each other like this?

CQCT8.jpg
 
K

Kadey

Mrs. Harvey
Parts can wear out over time. You can try system restore to a time where you don't remember the problem occurring.
 
F

Fugu

Member
Kadey said:
Parts can wear out over time. You can try system restore to a time where you don't remember the problem occurring.
Click to expand...
It's not a software problem, as the problem sometimes occurs before the system even boots. I'm considering leaving the computer running in the BIOS overnight to see if it crashes.

I'm trying to figure out which component is non-functional. I realize that at least one of them isn't working.
 
LiquidMetal14

LiquidMetal14

hide your water-based mammals
Zapages said:
Hey guys,

I was thinking of getting this computer: http://www.bestbuy.com/site/Lenovo+...mory/4272305.p?id=1218466823731&skuId=4272305

and then get a the best Nvidia graphics card available (Nvidia GTX 580) that I could add into it to use.

This computer will probably be used for browsing the web/streaming tv shows/checking mail/etc. Plus I might do some gaming on it too.
Click to expand...

I like it but can't recommend it wholeheartedly knowing you can build it for less. I mean, if you're going to toss in a 580, that would put you in the 1k range as opposed to putting it together yourself. It's not a bad deal for sure and if you have the money to burn then you can.
 
Z

Zapages

Member
LiquidMetal14 said:
I like it but can't recommend it wholeheartedly knowing you can build it for less. I mean, if you're going to toss in a 580, that would put you in the 1k range as opposed to putting it together yourself. It's not a bad deal for sure and if you have the money to burn then you can.
Click to expand...

Thanks, nevermind about the 580, how about the GTX 560? Anything that is not that expensive. I did not realize it was going to be that much. lol Any other graphic recommendations?
 
C

chaosblade

Unconfirmed Member
If you "might do some gaming" I wouldn't recommend a $200+ card, unless you meant that sarcastically, and you'll obviously be doing a lot of gaming.

But that's beside the point, I can't recommend getting a prebuilt computer like that and trying to work with it at all, there are a number of problems you're going to run into. First of all, the interior of the case is likely going to be a disaster, very hard to work in. Second, the PSU is going to be intended for the parts that are already in it. Chances are anything that draws much more power (as a better GPU would) is going to overload the PSU.

If you're completely against building yourself, customize something based off the builds in the OP on Cyberpower or a similar site that lets you individually choose all your components and they build it for you.
 
Z

Zapages

Member
chaosblade said:
If you "might do some gaming" I wouldn't recommend a $200+ card, unless you meant that sarcastically, and you'll obviously be doing a lot of gaming.

But that's beside the point, I can't recommend getting a prebuilt computer like that and trying to work with it at all, there are a number of problems you're going to run into. First of all, the interior of the case is likely going to be a disaster, very hard to work in. Second, the PSU is going to be intended for the parts that are already in it. Chances are anything that draws much more power (as a better GPU would) is going to overload the PSU.

If you're completely against building yourself, customize something based off the builds in the OP on Cyberpower or a similar site that lets you individually choose all your components and they build it for you.
Click to expand...

I do most of gaming on my laptop now. I honestly won't be doing much gaming on it as I am not at home all the time... I might use it for creating 3D models for research. (you need very good graphic cards for it). I am currently using Geforce 9600M GS 512 MB for that work.

That is good point about PSU... How is the ATI Radeon HD 6450 compared to the GTX560?
 
C

chaosblade

Unconfirmed Member
Zapages said:
I do most of gaming on my laptop now. I honestly won't be doing much gaming on it as I am not at home all the time... I might use it for creating 3D models for research. (you need very good graphic cards for it). I am currently using Geforce 9600M GS 512 MB for that work.

That is good point about PSU... How is the ATI Radeon HD 6450 compared to the GTX560?
Click to expand...

Well, the 6450 isn't really a gaming GPU at all, it's kind of a more powerful integrated GPU in a PCIe slot. The 560/560Ti would run circles around it.
 
O

Owensboro

Member
·feist·;33940357 said:
The three above, and others like CyberPower, all have a healthy profit built into the final price, and often give you limited options. Retailers like Micro Center, and NCIX will assemble for you, for a low cost, based on whatever you choose from their inventory. Contact MC and NCIX US to see what your choices are locally.

Otherwise, pay the built in profit, or order your parts, and find a reputable builder (company, or individual) who's local, or will ship/travel inexpensively.
Click to expand...

Hrmm. Well that's a bummer.Okay then, let me try and do this proper. I'm now building my PC again. It's time to stop being lazy:

Desktop I'm thinking of: "Excellent" Build from the OP, but I do have some questions.
1) For a case: I have a old Antec 900 that I have recently replaced all of the Fans in. Will this case work for that build? I don't want to get burned again with a motherboard that is larger then my case.

2) For all the parts listed: I did a search on NewEgg for the Graphics Card (GTX 560 Ti) and had multiple cards come up. I'm terrified of picking the wrong part. Once I get a list of all the parts I'm thinking of, with links, can I post it here to make sure I have everything right? Would you all mind?

3) How important is it to get a new monitor? I've been using the same flatpanel monitor for the last 10 or so years. I have no idea what resolution it is. What is the easiest way to check that to see if I need to upgrade? Should I even bother getting a new monitor if I plan on using a TV as a monitor in 6 months from now?

When I get back from work I'll look at what I currently have for part numbers and such. I'll report back then with more in depth information on parts I want to try keep (Optical Drive, Power Supply, Storage.
 
T

TheExodu5

Banned
Owensboro said:
Hrmm. Well that's a bummer.Okay then, let me try and do this proper. I'm now building my PC again. It's time to stop being lazy:

Desktop I'm thinking of: "Excellent" Build from the OP, but I do have some questions.
1) For a case: I have a old Antec 900 that I have recently replaced all of the Fans in. Will this case work for that build? I don't want to get burned again with a motherboard that is larger then my case.

2) For all the parts listed: I did a search on NewEgg for the Graphics Card (GTX 560 Ti) and had multiple cards come up. I'm terrified of picking the wrong part. Once I get a list of all the parts I'm thinking of, with links, can I post it here to make sure I have everything right? Would you all mind?

3) How important is it to get a new monitor? I've been using the same flatpanel monitor for the last 10 or so years. I have no idea what resolution it is. What is the easiest way to check that to see if I need to upgrade? Should I even bother getting a new monitor if I plan on using a TV as a monitor in 6 months from now?

When I get back from work I'll look at what I currently have for part numbers and such. I'll report back then with more in depth information on parts I want to try keep (Optical Drive, Power Supply, Storage.
Click to expand...

The Antec 900 should be fine. It just doesn't have many options for cable management and can have trouble fitting the largest video cards out there, but it's still perfectly usable.

For the GTX 560 Ti, make sure it's the Ti, and not the regular GTX 560. There's also the 448 model, which is basically a slightly degraded GTX 570.

If you plan on using a 1080p TV as a monitor in the near future, then don't bother buying anything.
 
C

Chris R

Member
The Cosmos II looks nice. Which case was the one that had the back ports pointing forward? Wasn't it a Lian Li? Any reviews of that one yet or is it not out yet?
 
A

aktham

Member
aktham said:
The only time it worked properly was with the original HDD and the Vertex 2 SSD. Using those same (downloaded from dell) intel chipset drivers makes the M4 stutter. Installing the latest chipset drivers from intel on a fresh copy of windows causes even more stuttering than usual. I'll try it again after work today and not install the chipset drivers and see what happens. The SSD tweaks that I normally use

Enable Write Caching
Disable indexing
Disable defragmentation
Disable Superfetch
Disable Prefetch
Disable Hibernate
Make sure TRIM is enabled

none of those should cause any problems, correct?

Edit:

Here's what it looks like after a fresh install. I did install all the drivers other than the intel chipset driver. I also haven't done any of the above SSD tweaks. I'm trying to isolate the problem :/
Click to expand...

Well bad news. I still have stuttering after restoring to factory drivers on the M4 yet again. The stuttering is not as bad. The 30 days are up to return it to newegg (31-32 days fml). The last thing I haven't tried is the registry edit to manually turn off LPM. I will try that and if it doesn't work, I'll simply live with the stuttering until I can buy a larger SSD for the laptop and just raid this M4 with the one in my desktop.
 
MisterNoisy

MisterNoisy

Member
rhfb said:
The Cosmos II looks nice. Which case was the one that had the back ports pointing forward? Wasn't it a Lian Li? Any reviews of that one yet or is it not out yet?
Click to expand...

You may be thinking of the Silverstone Fortress and Raven cases, which orient the motherboard so that the expansion and I/O backplane is at the top of the case instead of the back.
 
S

scy

Member
aktham said:
Well bad news. I still have stuttering after restoring to factory drivers on the M4 yet again. The stuttering is not as bad. The 30 days are up to return it to newegg (31-32 days fml). The last thing I haven't tried is the registry edit to manually turn off LPM. I will try that and if it doesn't work, I'll simply live with the stuttering until I can buy a larger SSD for the laptop and just raid this M4 with the one in my desktop.
Click to expand...

So it's not the Intel drivers? That's the typical cause of issues with laptops and SSDs; the power manage settings (primarily, LPM as you bring up) causing issues with it returning from sleep. 0002 or 0009 firmware on the M4 + msahci drivers is what I'd stick to but if that's still causing you issues, I don't know :/

There's the possibility of it being a bad drive itself but I'd get a call in to Crucial before making that judgment; they're pretty good about support from my few dealings with them.
 
B

bluemax

Banned
So I have a question, I currently have the following specs:

Intel Core 2 Duo E7300 @ 2.66 GHZ
4GB RAM
Sapphire Radeon HD 4850 512MB RAM

and I'm noticing that my computer is struggling to give good frame rates with newer games (Saints Row, Skyrim etc). I can't really afford to do a full upgrade but I did get a $50 gift card to NewEgg so I was wondering what one part (processor/graphics card) I could spend about $150 on that would boost my performance the most?
 
C

chaosblade

Unconfirmed Member
rhfb said:
No, it was a case that had the I/O backplane facing the front of the case.
Click to expand...

Pretty sure it was a Lian Li. Interesting concept, but in the end with all the cables being routed out the front of the case I'm not sure how good of an idea it actually is. Seems like it might be okay if you keep your PC in a closet, but what's the real benefit over having the I/O ports on the back?
 
Q

Quicksilver4648

Member
So here I am again in this thread for the first time since last year when I built my first PC (thanks again for all of the help), but this time I am here without much excitement. When I built my PC I only ordered once HDD since I expected to upgrade to an SSD when the prices got much better. One thing led to another, prices never dropped, and I finished up the 2011 year with just the same HDD I started off with. Here is my problem: My Samsung Spinpoint F3 1 TB HDD died, or at least is dieing. I turned it on yesterday and I got to the desktop though it took a long time) but then everything froze so I turned it off and restarted. Ever since then it hasn't been working. The Windows 7 Installation disk and Ubuntu is telling me the drive is dead so in a last chance attempt to save some data I am using the old fashioned HDD-in-the-freezer-and-pray method that has worked for me before. However, I went on NewEgg and looked into buying a new drive but left absolutely shocked. I knew Thailand got hit hard by the storm but holy crap! My $60 drive is now going for $150! So gaf, here is my question. What are my options?

Are there any new developments that drive prices are going to drop back down soonish? Should I just buy a smaller HDD even though anything from 200gb to 500gb goes for a minimum of $80? Should I save my pennies and finally make the jump to a small cheap $100 SSD, just so I can get something useful out of it?

My ultimate priority now is just to get some old data back from my dieing/dead drive and then I will figure out what to do with my PC. I have a machine with $1000 worth of hardware and the only think I can do right now is run Ubuntu off my flashdrive.
 
M

mkenyon

Banned
Though seemingly full featured, there is something about that Cosmos that irks me. Maybe I've become too much of a modder, and it's just simply too finished already. Not a lot that can be done outside of doing a cutout in the bottom area for a second 240 (maybe 360mm) radiator.

If you want to do a simple plug and play custom loop, that case seems perfect. Otherwise, it's both overkill and seriously lacking in the air cooled department.
Quicksilver4648 said:
What are my options?

Are there any new developments that drive prices are going to drop back down soonish? Should I just buy a smaller HDD even though anything from 200gb to 500gb goes for a minimum of $80? Should I save my pennies and finally make the jump to a small cheap $100 SSD, just so I can get something useful out of it?

My ultimate priority now is just to get some old data back from my dieing/dead drive and then I will figure out what to do with my PC. I have a machine with $1000 worth of hardware and the only think I can do right now is run Ubuntu off my flashdrive.
Click to expand...
Really, the answer to this is up to you and what you want *right now*. Prices will stabilize where they are at and *maybe* slightly drop throughout 2012. They're not expected to get back to where they were until possibly 2013.

It's all up to what you're willing to pay, but HDD prices aren't going to go down significantly any time soon if that is what had you worried about spending lots now.
 
C

chaosblade

Unconfirmed Member
Quicksilver4648 said:
So here I am again in this thread for the first time since last year when I built my first PC (thanks again for all of the help), but this time I am here without much excitement. When I built my PC I only ordered once HDD since I expected to upgrade to an SSD when the prices got much better. One thing led to another, prices never dropped, and I finished up the 2011 year with just the same HDD I started off with. Here is my problem: My Samsung Spinpoint F3 1 TB HDD died, or at least is dieing. I turned it on yesterday and I got to the desktop though it took a long time) but then everything froze so I turned it off and restarted. Ever since then it hasn't been working. The Windows 7 Installation disk and Ubuntu is telling me the drive is dead so in a last chance attempt to save some data I am using the old fashioned HDD-in-the-freezer-and-pray method that has worked for me before. However, I went on NewEgg and looked into buying a new drive but left absolutely shocked. I knew Thailand got hit hard by the storm but holy crap! My $60 drive is now going for $150! So gaf, here is my question. What are my options?

Are there any new developments that drive prices are going to drop back down soonish? Should I just buy a smaller HDD even though anything from 200gb to 500gb goes for a minimum of $80? Should I save my pennies and finally make the jump to a small cheap $100 SSD, just so I can get something useful out of it?

My ultimate priority now is just to get some old data back from my dieing/dead drive and then I will figure out what to do with my PC. I have a machine with $1000 worth of hardware and the only think I can do right now is run Ubuntu off my flashdrive.
Click to expand...

Buy SSD if you want one anyway, and send the HDD to Samsung to get it fixed - of course you won't get the same one back with your data on it, but paying to ship it off to them for RMA is a lot cheaper than buying a new drive.
 
C

Chris R

Member
chaosblade said:
Pretty sure it was a Lian Li. Interesting concept, but in the end with all the cables being routed out the front of the case I'm not sure how good of an idea it actually is. Seems like it might be okay if you keep your PC in a closet, but what's the real benefit over having the I/O ports on the back?
Click to expand...

I'm less interested in how the cables are run, and more interested to see what the temperatures look like. Supposedly since the hot items are close to the cool air and get it directly it should be a cooler (and quieter) case.
 
C

chaosblade

Unconfirmed Member
rhfb said:
I'm less interested in how the cables are run, and more interested to see what the temperatures look like. Supposedly since the hot items are close to the cool air and get it directly it should be a cooler (and quieter) case.
Click to expand...

Fraction of a degree maybe, compared to a normal case with good airflow? The intake air shouldn't warm significantly until it's cooling the hot stuff. It would probably be about the same as lowering your room temp by a degree or two.
 
M

mkenyon

Banned
chaosblade said:
Pretty sure it was a Lian Li. Interesting concept, but in the end with all the cables being routed out the front of the case I'm not sure how good of an idea it actually is. Seems like it might be okay if you keep your PC in a closet, but what's the real benefit over having the I/O ports on the back?
Click to expand...
All the cables are routed through the side panel to the back of the case. They don't stick out the front.
 
S

Shambles

Member
aktham said:
Well bad news. I still have stuttering after restoring to factory drivers on the M4 yet again. The stuttering is not as bad. The 30 days are up to return it to newegg (31-32 days fml). The last thing I haven't tried is the registry edit to manually turn off LPM. I will try that and if it doesn't work, I'll simply live with the stuttering until I can buy a larger SSD for the laptop and just raid this M4 with the one in my desktop.
Click to expand...

It's still under manufacturers warranty. Try your last ditch software tweaks and then send it in if it's not working properly.
 
M

mkenyon

Banned
Shambles said:
It's still under manufacturers warranty. Try your last ditch software tweaks and then send it in if it's not working properly.
Click to expand...
RMA process is a mess for the same reasons that prices are ridiculously high. That's not really a short term option.
 
·

·feist·

Member
Despite having a slight negative pressure stock setup (easily changeable, with the 5 stock fans), stock cooling performance is good. There are more than enough mod-free options to further improve its air cooling.

It also includes a bracket that allows for a mod-free 120.2 rad, sideways, in place of the bottom 2x3 HDD cages. With a bit of tweaking, the space will fit a second sideways 120.2 rad, sideways triple rad, or (if you cut the case floor) a downward 120.3/140.3 triple rad.

There are some things I would've liked to have seen done differently, but all in all, you have a flexible, high quality enclosure suitable for newcomers and advanced modders. As a mainstream, jack-of-all-trades, it gets far more right, than it does wrong. You can get some increased modularity, or water cooling specificity with some of the other options available (boutique brands, and higher end mainstream), but that's always the case. Now to see how the finished, next gen ATCS enclosure turns out, especially since Cooler Master have lost so many employees over the years -from all of their case sub brands- to other manufacturers, and start-ups.



More vids & reviews:

http://www.neogaf.com/forum/showpost.php?p=33949207&postcount=953
http://www.neogaf.com/forum/showpost.php?p=33956550&postcount=969
http://www.neogaf.com/forum/showpost.php?p=33942508&postcount=945

Cooler Master Cosmos 2 Size Comparison With 800D TJ07 & Fractal Define
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fwC8yW1U-Q8

Cooler Master Cosmos II Ultra Tower Case Review
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=g9e4KF0uHKo

Cooler Master Cosmos II Case Review - PC Perspective
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EyN7ZMld56k

Futurelooks Goes Hands On With the NEW Cooler Master Cosmos II (2) Ultra Tower Computer Chassis
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JmAHepwBKHE

Cooler Master Cosmos II Extreme Gaming Case Unboxing & First Look Linus Tech Tips
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DklUlve_C4Y

Cooler Master Cosmos II: chassis super enthusiast - TVtech
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lm4Ts2J2RYI


http://benchmarkreviews.com/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=835&Itemid=61
http://www.legitreviews.com/article/1809/1/
http://www.neoseeker.com/Articles/Hardware/Reviews/Cooler_Master_Cosmos_II/
http://www.overclock3d.net/reviews/cases_cooling/cooler_master_cosmos_2_review/1
http://pro-clockers.com/cases/2130-cooler-master-cosmos-ii-pc-tower.html
http://www.pureoverclock.com/article1418.html



Coolermeister documented his dual CPU socket, quad GPU build, complete with 34 pics. He used an old SR-2, as the newer EVGA SR-3/SR-X, and other dual socket X79s aren't on sale yet, or still under NDA.

Cosmos II (Liquid Edition)
http://coolercasesuk.co.uk/showthread.php?4411-Cosmos-II-(Liquid-Edition)&

System Spec:
Cosmos II (Liquid Edition)
EVGA SR-2 Motherboard
Intel X5650 CPU’s
EVGA Hydro Copper GTX 480 GPU’s
Memory – can’t mention that yet
Kingston 64GB V+ SSD’s Raid 0
Coolermaster 1200w Real Power Pro PSU
XSPC Raystorm CPU Blocks
XSPC EX 480 and 2x EX 240 Radiators
Phobya Nano-G Fans
MIPs Motherboard Block
Koolance RP-450x2
Laing D5 Pumps x2
Bitspower Black Fittings

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