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"I need a New PC!" 2012 Thread. 22nm+28nm, Tri-Gate, and reading the OP. [Part 1]

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O

Owensboro

Member
Just went through and ordered everything. I should be building a PC by this time next week. Thanks for the help everyone!

Just for fun I want to run some tests on my current setup, then run the same tests when I have the new computer set up to see what my overall improvement was. What programs would be the best to use? I noticed the OP has FURMark, OCCT, and Prime95 as Video card, CPU, and GPU tests respectively. I got a free copy of 3DMark11 with the video card purchase. Should I just run that when it arrives, install everything, and run it again?

I just want more proof that spending the money was totally worth it :)
 
D

Double D

Member
I'm super frustrated and confused, and would appreciate any help you guys can give me with the issues I've got.

That said, I have a Gateway FX7026 that I bought a couple years ago. Long story short, I replaced the 8800 with a GTX465, and replaced the power supply with a Corsair GS600. It worked ok for a while. I thought my power supply was dead, so I got it RMA'd. I reinstall it and everything, even reapllied the arctic silver stuff to the Heatsink. Turn it on and, bam, my motherboard literally lights on fire. Immediately pull the plug, and here I am.

So, my main issues are, what do I really replace? Obviously the motherboard needs replacing. Well, my dumbass doesn't want to go buying a motherboard and just hope it works with everything I've got here. Ideally I'd only want to replace that for cost reasons. But then I start looking around and just have no idea what to do. Do I just buy a newer, better motherboard? Then I've got to replace my processor (right?), which I think is still decent (Q9300, quad core 2.5Ghz), and then probably my ram (4GB ddr2).

I guess ultimately what I want is for someone to please point me in the most cost effective direction for getting my rig up and working, while perhaps upgrading my motherboard a bit.
 
C

chaosblade

Unconfirmed Member
Owensboro said:
Just went through and ordered everything. I should be building a PC by this time next week. Thanks for the help everyone!

Just for fun I want to run some tests on my current setup, then run the same tests when I have the new computer set up to see what my overall improvement was. What programs would be the best to use? I noticed the OP has FURMark, OCCT, and Prime95 as Video card, CPU, and GPU tests respectively. I got a free copy of 3DMark11 with the video card purchase. Should I just run that when it arrives, install everything, and run it again?

I just want more proof that spending the money was totally worth it :)
Click to expand...

3DMark11 is the only one that's going to give you any sort of value. The others are just stress tests that make components hot and potentially unstable for OC testing.
 
L

larvi

Member
Ugh, want to upgrade my daughter's core duo system to a core I3 build for her birthday this month but the prices of sata drives are holding me back. Unfortunately the drive in her current system is a PATA drive and none of the budget LGA1155 board appear to have a built in PATA controller anymore. Does anyone know if an addon controller card such as this would be able to boot from a PATA drive:

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16816132009

From my old SCSI controller days I know that some controllers didn't include a boot bios.

Also do I have to be concerned about compatibility with XP with any of the newer motherboards? She's still running XP and I've been trying to get her to upgrade but she's not ready yet. I figure if I build her a system with 8gb of memory and show her she's only using ~3gb of it that might do the trick :)
 
Y

Yami

Member
Aight, student loan is dropping soon and I can also dip into my student overdraft to fuel around £700 into a decent pc.

So, I've come up with the following.

Asus P8P67 PRO REV 3.1 Socket 1155 8 Channel Audio ATX Motherboard £100.19
Intel Core i5 2500K 3.3GHz Socket 1155 6MB Cache Retail Boxed Processor £142.48
Corsair 4GB (2x2GB) DDR3 1600MHz/PC3-12800 XMS3 i5 Memory Kit CL9(9-9-9-24) 1.65V £16.66
Gigabyte GTX 560 OC Edition 1GB GDDR5 Dual DVI Mini HDMI PCI-E Graphics Card £124.69
Antec TruePower New 650W Modular PSU £58.32
Coolermaster Hyper 212 Evo £22.83
Fractal Design Define R3 Black Pearl Case - USB3.0 £62.29
OCZ 60GB Agility 3 SSD - 2.5" SATA-III £62.49

Subtotal £589.95
VAT £118.02
Order Total £707.97
(All parts costs are not inclusive of VAT tho, thx.)

Re-using 3 fairly old SATA HDD's, and frankly, can't really afford any HDD's at this current price, so SSD is the way to go. Might cut that if cash runs a bit dry though. Could also cut down on case costs. Installing Windows from USB, so no need for a DVD drive, but could gut that from another PC.

Few questions though, worth switching up to 8GB for an extra tenner or so? Motherboard is getting a bit dated, but I used a P8P67-M on a build for my father recently that runs as solid as a rock, but any other suggestions at similar prices? How's the Z68 chipset in comparison now? Worth the extra prices for features I may not even use? 650W is decent enough for SLI right? Got the same card in my brother's PC, so when he upgrades that, I'll be popping that in for a bit more performance.

Cheers fellas.
 
L

larvi

Member
Yami said:
Few questions though, worth switching up to 8GB for an extra tenner or so?
Cheers fellas.
Click to expand...

I would say definitely on this one assuming you are planning on a 64bit OS. I just upgraded my aging Q6600 based system from 4gb to 16gb and can definitely tell the difference. Win7 seems to do a good job of using the extra memory for disk caching even if you don't have any apps that need that much. Plus the other thing with memory is when you want to ugprade in the future it's usually more since they stopped massed producing that type of memory and matching your current memory timings can be a pain sometimes. DDR3 is pretty cheap right now imo.
 
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Previous

check out my new Swatch
I am preparing to install the motherboard inside the case and have a question,
The case (650D) already has peg-like spacers installed, can I just drop the motherboard on those and it will be fine?
I'm asking because the case also came with small rubber (spacers?) inside a plastic bag that are not mentioned in the instructions so I assume these may be extras for installing a extra fan or something but I just want to make sure if I'm not supposed to put these on the peg's that are already in the case or not?
 
Y

Yami

Member
Previous said:
I am preparing to install the motherboard inside the case and have a question,
The case (650D) already has peg-like spacers installed, can I just drop the motherboard on those and it will be fine?
I'm asking because the case also came with small rubber (spacers?) inside a plastic bag that are not mentioned in the instructions so I assume these may be extras for installing a extra fan or something but I just want to make sure if I'm not supposed to put these on the peg's that are already in the case or not?
Click to expand...

Make sure the spacers line up with the holes in your motherboard. If not, unscrew them and move them to the correct hole in the mobo tray that lines up with your board.
 
P

Previous

check out my new Swatch
OK thanks a lot, just wanted to be sure. Just realized the newegg build video also uses the same case as me so that is going to hopefully help me out in the future.
 
S

Swag

Member
Can anyone recommend a good monitor?

I've been staying at a friends place for a bit over the semester break, and he has a Alienware M15x, the screen on this thing is super sharp, makes my LG W2361V look terrible by comparison. To my understanding this is due to the fact that his screen is much smaller then mine, thus making the pixel density much higher, not sure if my reasoning on that is correct or not. Are there any good 23 inch monitors that will give me a crisp / sharp image?
 
F

FoolsRun

Member
Vik_Vaughn said:
I'm super frustrated and confused, and would appreciate any help you guys can give me with the issues I've got.

That said, I have a Gateway FX7026 that I bought a couple years ago. Long story short, I replaced the 8800 with a GTX465, and replaced the power supply with a Corsair GS600. It worked ok for a while. I thought my power supply was dead, so I got it RMA'd. I reinstall it and everything, even reapllied the arctic silver stuff to the Heatsink. Turn it on and, bam, my motherboard literally lights on fire. Immediately pull the plug, and here I am.

So, my main issues are, what do I really replace? Obviously the motherboard needs replacing. Well, my dumbass doesn't want to go buying a motherboard and just hope it works with everything I've got here. Ideally I'd only want to replace that for cost reasons. But then I start looking around and just have no idea what to do. Do I just buy a newer, better motherboard? Then I've got to replace my processor (right?), which I think is still decent (Q9300, quad core 2.5Ghz), and then probably my ram (4GB ddr2).

I guess ultimately what I want is for someone to please point me in the most cost effective direction for getting my rig up and working, while perhaps upgrading my motherboard a bit.
Click to expand...

The cheapest approach is to buy another LGA775 motherboard and transfer your CPU and RAM to it. However, there are a few gotchas you need to consider.

Windows is normally licensed to a particular motherboard, so once you fire up your new build you'll probably get a "This is not an authorized version of Windows" warning, and will have to shell out money for a new Windows license. Also, LGA775 is essentially a dead socket, and compatible CPUs are becoming harder to find and simply aren't cost effective at this point. Once your CPU goes, you really need to upgrade to a whole new motherboard socket (such as LGA1155), get a new type of CPU (SandyBridge now, or IvyBridge later this year), and get new RAM. And a new motherboard would mean yet another copy of Windows.

So . . . unless you plan to stick with your current CPU for a few more years, it probably makes sense to start over with a new system now. If your existing motherboard was trying to impersonate a Roman Candle, I have to wonder if your RAM and CPU were shorted out in the process. You don't want to get a new LGA775 motherboard only to find that your existing components are dead anyway.
 
S

Shambles

Member
mclaren777 said:
I didn't know about that thread and I didn't see anything in the OP that prohibited selling stuff in here.

Should I delete/move my post or just leave it here? That thread seems more for video games and this is some serious uber-nerd hardware I'm trying to sell.
Click to expand...

Meh we don't care that much as long as this thread doesn't turn into craigslist. If you are selling something specific that someone in the thread is looking for go ahead, if you're just trying to plug a list of things to sell you're better off in the buy/sell/trade thread. :)
 
T

theRizzle

Member
Sebulon3k said:
Can anyone recommend a good monitor?

I've been staying at a friends place for a bit over the semester break, and he has a Alienware M15x, the screen on this thing is super sharp, makes my LG W2361V look terrible by comparison. To my understanding this is due to the fact that his screen is much smaller then mine, thus making the pixel density much higher, not sure if my reasoning on that is correct or not. Are there any good 23 inch monitors that will give me a crisp / sharp image?
Click to expand...

Don't know how much you are willing to spend, but the Asus PA238Q is a really nice monitor.

Newegg
 
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Piercedveil

Member
Right now I have a HP 2010i monitor with a 1600 x 900 res and 16:9 ratio. I haven't had this monitor very long (maybe about a year), but I have been thinking that full HD would be really nice since I do use my PC for playing games pretty often. Would it be worth it to upgrade to a monitor like [this] or will I not see enough of an improvement to be a worthy upgrade? Just wondering if you guys think it is worth it before I make a decision.

Thanks PC GAF
 
T

TheExodu5

Banned
Anyone have any clue where to find a short (~2 feet) black male to male PS/2 cable? I can't, for the life of me, find one. I need a replacement for my Saitek X52 Pro...lost my original cable. I'm currently using a 10 foot cable but it's a pain.
 
R

royalan

Member
I apologize beforehand if this is the wrong thread for this.

But what's the GAF opinion on all-in-one PCs?

I'm a graphic designer, and it's seriously time for me to get some new hardware. I usually prefer a laptop, but now that I have a netbook that's perfect for carrying around in my bag during the day, I don't really need my main work machine to be portable. But I hate dealing with PC towers and all the cables and loud fans that seem to attract dust to the area.

Enter the all-in-one. Most seem to be pretty sleek, and aren't too shabby in the power department these days (important for me for running various intensive programs, and I'd like to get into some light PC gaming. Especially when Diablo 3 comes out). I know that they can't be routinely upgraded like a tower, and they aren't truly portable like a laptop. But that said, I'm tempted by the larger screen and something a little more sleek than a tower setup. Something I wouldn't mind having setup in my living room.

Any gaffers use an all-in-one? Are they worth the money? Or would I be better off picking a laptop or tower instead of going middle of the road?
 
C

Corran Horn

May the Schwartz be with you
Got my Fractal R3 case today :D
2012-01-05%25252020.50.45.jpg



Tomorrow I get my SSD, Ram, & Heatsink to finish my pc upgrade for the time being.
 
W

Wolf Akela

Member
Anybody got recommendations for a good, super roomy case for around $100?

With removable/washable dust filters?
Click to expand...

NZXT Lexa S is pretty roomy and it has a removable/washable filter for the PSU. Built-in fans and drive bay sliders as well. Wish the cable holes on the mobo tray was bigger though.
 
J

JJBro One

Member
ok, so is my HDD DOA? It's a 1TB samsung spinpoint f3. I installed my os on my ssd just fine and it appears in the bios and in the windows installation. From the moment I plugged in my hdd it wasn't being recognized by the bios or windows. I switched sata positioning on the motherboard and it still wasn't being recognized. Just now I switched power cables and data cables with the ssd and the hdd. The ssd works just fine but once again nothing with the hdd. Should I assume that this hdd is DOA?
 
I

Igo

Member
Do I really need a 550W PSU for HD78xx/2500k/2 external usb hd's/ 2 7200 1tb drives or could I save some money on a 430/450?
 
C

chaosblade

Unconfirmed Member
JJBro One said:
ok, so is my HDD DOA? It's a 1TB samsung spinpoint f3. I installed my os on my ssd just fine and it appears in the bios and in the windows installation. From the moment I plugged in my hdd it wasn't being recognized by the bios or windows. I switched sata positioning on the motherboard and it still wasn't being recognized. Just now I switched power cables and data cables with the ssd and the hdd. The ssd works just fine but once again nothing with the hdd. Should I assume that this hdd is DOA?
Click to expand...

Are you sure it's not being recognized by the bios? The drive isn't formatted when you get it so check the disk management utility and format it. If that's what you were doing and it's not there, it might be doa.
 
D

Double D

Member
FoolsRun said:
The cheapest approach is to buy another LGA775 motherboard and transfer your CPU and RAM to it. However, there are a few gotchas you need to consider.

Windows is normally licensed to a particular motherboard, so once you fire up your new build you'll probably get a "This is not an authorized version of Windows" warning, and will have to shell out money for a new Windows license. Also, LGA775 is essentially a dead socket, and compatible CPUs are becoming harder to find and simply aren't cost effective at this point. Once your CPU goes, you really need to upgrade to a whole new motherboard socket (such as LGA1155), get a new type of CPU (SandyBridge now, or IvyBridge later this year), and get new RAM. And a new motherboard would mean yet another copy of Windows.

So . . . unless you plan to stick with your current CPU for a few more years, it probably makes sense to start over with a new system now. If your existing motherboard was trying to impersonate a Roman Candle, I have to wonder if your RAM and CPU were shorted out in the process. You don't want to get a new LGA775 motherboard only to find that your existing components are dead anyway.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the response. And yes, there was a part right next to my heat sink that looked like a mini roman candle, lol. So, I think it is probably best to move on at this point. SO I guess I'll need a new motherboard, RAM, and CPU, right? Would any of the recommendations in the OP be an upgrade to my current situation? Obviously I don't know a whole lot about this stuff, but I guess I get hung up on this "more cores=better" thing. Coming off a quad core, I just feel like moving to 2 or 3 cores is just a downgrade.
 
G

gutterboy44

Member
Can't decide between the Mushkin 120GB Chronos Enhanced (On Sale $154) or the Samsung 830 128GB ($209)

The Sammy has some nice packed in extras and seems to be regarded as very reliable. The Mushkin is cheaper, faster but seems to have some strange firmware upgrade hurdles to deal with. Anyone able to weigh in from experience with either drives?

Side note, how do you upgrade an SSD firmware before installing the OS on it? Do you have to attach it to an already built computer and upgrade it that way first? My existing computer definitely does not have a Intel SATA controller, but I hope that doesn't effect firmware upgrades.
 
mclaren777

mclaren777

Member
gutterboy44 said:
Can't decide between the Mushkin 120GB Chronos Enhanced (On Sale $154) or the Samsung 830 128GB ($209)

Side note, how do you upgrade an SSD firmware before installing the OS on it? Do you have to attach it to an already built computer and upgrade it that way first? My existing computer definitely does not have a Intel SATA controller, but I hope that doesn't effect firmware upgrades.
Click to expand...

I have a Samsung 470 SSD in this computer and I love it!

It required a firmware update so I plugged it into my old Dell from 2003 and flashed it that way. It's really quite easy, but it does reformat the drive. Or at least it did for me.
 
F

FoolsRun

Member
Vik_Vaughn said:
Thanks for the response. And yes, there was a part right next to my heat sink that looked like a mini roman candle, lol. So, I think it is probably best to move on at this point. SO I guess I'll need a new motherboard, RAM, and CPU, right? Would any of the recommendations in the OP be an upgrade to my current situation? Obviously I don't know a whole lot about this stuff, but I guess I get hung up on this "more cores=better" thing. Coming off a quad core, I just feel like moving to 2 or 3 cores is just a downgrade.
Click to expand...

I'd probably look at the Enhanced build which uses an i5 2500K. It gives you the best overall bang for your buck, and is the most commonly purchased processor by posters in this thread. Quad-cores weren't that relevant a few years ago, but newer games do take advantage of the extra cores, so going with a dual-core would be a move in the wrong direction unless you only did light gaming (or play Valve/Blizzard games exclusively--they're two developers that design their games to run well on lower-end hardware). RAM is fairly cheap, and unless you plan to do heavy overclocking, you don't need an expensive motherboard.

I assume your PSU is fine (your model looks similar to the Corsair Enthusiant line but with a bigger fan), and you can transfer your GTX465 to the new build as well. You might be able to reuse your DVD drive, although they're pretty cheap these days. You can skip the sound card and aftermarket CPU cooler for now. You can add a Hyper 212+ later if you decide you want to overclock.

I generally buy a new hard drive for my applications & OS when building a system and reuse my old drives for media/backups, but prices are still high due to Thailand floods (the 1TB Samsung I bought in early October for $60 is now selling for $150).
 
H

Horsemama1956

Member
FoolsRun said:
I'd probably look at the Enhanced build which uses an i5 2500K. It gives you the best overall bang for your buck, and is the most commonly purchased processor by posters in this thread. Quad-cores weren't that relevant a few years ago, but newer games do take advantage of the extra cores, so going with a dual-core would be a move in the wrong direction unless you only did light gaming (or play Valve/Blizzard games exclusively--they're two developers that design their games to run well on lower-end hardware). RAM is fairly cheap, and unless you plan to do heavy overclocking, you don't need an expensive motherboard.

I assume your PSU is fine (your model looks similar to the Corsair Enthusiant line but with a bigger fan), and you can transfer your GTX465 to the new build as well. You might be able to reuse your DVD drive, although they're pretty cheap these days. You can skip the sound card and aftermarket CPU cooler for now. You can add a Hyper 212+ later if you decide you want to overclock.

I generally buy a new hard drive for my applications & OS when building a system and reuse my old drives for media/backups, but prices are still high due to Thailand floods (the 1TB Samsung I bought in early October for $60 is now selling for $150).
Click to expand...

If he isn't going with a highend gpu setup an i3 21xx is plenty for any game on the market and will be for awhile.
 
D

Double D

Member
FoolsRun said:
I'd probably look at the Enhanced build which uses an i5 2500K. It gives you the best overall bang for your buck, and is the most commonly purchased processor by posters in this thread. Quad-cores weren't that relevant a few years ago, but newer games do take advantage of the extra cores, so going with a dual-core would be a move in the wrong direction unless you only did light gaming (or play Valve/Blizzard games exclusively--they're two developers that design their games to run well on lower-end hardware). RAM is fairly cheap, and unless you plan to do heavy overclocking, you don't need an expensive motherboard.

I assume your PSU is fine (your model looks similar to the Corsair Enthusiant line but with a bigger fan), and you can transfer your GTX465 to the new build as well. You might be able to reuse your DVD drive, although they're pretty cheap these days. You can skip the sound card and aftermarket CPU cooler for now. You can add a Hyper 212+ later if you decide you want to overclock.

I generally buy a new hard drive for my applications & OS when building a system and reuse my old drives for media/backups, but prices are still high due to Thailand floods (the 1TB Samsung I bought in early October for $60 is now selling for $150).
Click to expand...

Thanks again, man. I guess I'll start with Newegg. Also, that motherboard isn't any bigger than the one I have now, is it? Hoping everything will fit in this case so I don't have to buy a new one of those also.

And my brother just gave me 2 500gig hard drives he had laying around. I'm planning on formatting those and using one as my primary and just keeping my 2 current 250's and just putting them in there as well. Can't have too many drives , right? I'd love a SSD, but now just doesn't seem like the time especially considering that I didn't plan on spending any money on this stuff in the first place.
 
D

Double D

Member
Horsemama1956 said:
If he isn't going with a highend gpu setup an i3 21xx is plenty for any game on the market and will be for awhile.
Click to expand...

is the i5 significantly better, though? I just feel like even though I really didn't want to spend anything here, the fact is that I am, and I may as well try to future proof as best as possible since I'm going through the trouble. I'd just like to know if the difference is ~$90 'better'.
 
Z

Zyzyxxz

Member
Vik_Vaughn said:
is the i5 significantly better, though? I just feel like even though I really didn't want to spend anything here, the fact is that I am, and I may as well try to future proof as best as possible since I'm going through the trouble. I'd just like to know if the difference is ~$90 'better'.
Click to expand...

If you have a budget I'd say stick to it, "future proofing" IMO has always been a foolish goal.

When it comes to PC performance parts the return on performance per dollar diminishes the more you spend and any overkill is just wasted money.

But IMO yes the i5 2500K is the best gaming cpu for the money right now it's a steal and it will definitely last you considering I'm still using a AMD Phenom x4 @ 3.0ghz and running everything fine.
 
MisterNoisy

MisterNoisy

Member
specialguy said:
Anybody got recommendations for a good, super roomy case for around $100?

With removable/washable dust filters?

By super roomy, I mean at least able to fit any long cards with ease. I was looking at the Antec 900 2, http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811129097 but apparently it's actually a tight squeeze with some cards, which is disgusting.
Click to expand...

Lian Li Lancool PC-K63 is outstanding at that price. Great cable management, tons of room (you can remove the 2 HDD racks individually, so big video cards aren't an issue), lots of airflow and easily removable/washable filters on all the intake fans.
 
H

Horsemama1956

Member
The cpu can only produce as many frames as the gpu allows. While the 2500k is faster it's more for people that want 120 fps instead say 90 or high benchmark scores. You would be better off with an i3, sell the 465 and tossing in a 78xx when they come out.

You won't be overclocking right now so 2x4GB value memory will be fine(15-20 bucks), $80-100 motherboard without crossfire/sli will handle future upgrades as well. The 100+ saved and sale of the 465 can go towards a gpu as stated above. Will bs a much more rounded system with good upgrade options.
 
F

FoolsRun

Member
Vik_Vaughn said:
is the i5 significantly better, though? I just feel like even though I really didn't want to spend anything here, the fact is that I am, and I may as well try to future proof as best as possible since I'm going through the trouble. I'd just like to know if the difference is ~$90 'better'.
Click to expand...

Motherboards generally come in two sizes: standard ATX and micro-ATX. NewEgg provides the dimensions, so you can check before making a purchase.

As for the CPU, it's up to you. The i3 series is dual-core while the i5 is quad-core. A lot of games do run just fine with two cores, particularly those that were developed for consoles and then ported to PCs. Many of the games I enjoy ran reasonably well on an older E8400 dual-core system that I replaced this fall, and the i3 models are generally faster than that.

If you plan to keep the GTX 465 for a while, it might make sense to go with a cheaper i3. The i3 series will run most current games without too much of a problem, while the i5 will run today's as well as future games.

The i3 and i5 use the same socket (as do the upcoming IvyBridge CPUs) so you can always replace the i3 later if you went that route.
 
C

chaosblade

Unconfirmed Member
I'd get a new 775 motherboard over investing in a whole i3 system, but it sounds like you don't even know what all is still any good. Your CPU and RAM might be gone too, and if that's the case there's no point in buying a bunch of old hardware.

An i3 system with your 465 would probably run games about as well as your old PC, you'll be GPU limited regardless of what you do.

i5 is probably a better investment just because it has four actual cores, and it will probably last you longer for that reason. Plus you could OC it provided you get a P67/Z68 motherboard, no i3 CPU even has a "k" version for OCing. I'd expect a 2500k to 3-4 years before it's a bottleneck.

You could always get the i3 with the intention of upgrade to Ivy Bridge, but I never liked that idea much since you're spending more by buying two CPUs. If you're just short on money it's an option though.
 
T

TheExodu5

Banned
specialguy said:
Anybody got recommendations for a good, super roomy case for around $100?

With removable/washable dust filters?

By super roomy, I mean at least able to fit any long cards with ease. I was looking at the Antec 900 2, http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811129097 but apparently it's actually a tight squeeze with some cards, which is disgusting.
Click to expand...

It's hard to beat the HAF 922 in terms of space.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811119197

Found a pic online of a GTX 580 in there. One of the longest cards out there, and it fits easily:

15x4xkx.jpg


Might want to consider the Corsair 400R as well. Not quite as big, but they'll still fit any card out there. It has a nicer interior than the HAF 922.
 
P

Previous

check out my new Swatch
Alright! I have completed* building my first PC!

*
Without a video card yet.
Just read somewhere that online retailers should start listing 7970's for sale starting tomorrow.

and what would be a post by me in this thread without asking a question,
Just how tight should the screws holding my corsair h80 to the mother board be? Ive tightened them just to the point of it being snug and secure, it feels like I could tighten them a lot more if I put a little pressure into it but I'm not sure.
 
H

Hazaro

relies on auto-aim
royalan said:
I apologize beforehand if this is the wrong thread for this.

But what's the GAF opinion on all-in-one PCs?
But I hate dealing with PC towers and all the cables and loud fans that seem to attract dust to the area.

Any gaffers use an all-in-one? Are they worth the money? Or would I be better off picking a laptop or tower instead of going middle of the road?
Click to expand...
There are plenty of smaller form factor PCs and Silent and sleek looking towers. Probably not as nice as an all-in one, but you extremely limit yourself in warranty, speed, upgradability, and you are paying more for less.
I'd start browsing newegg under the mATX header for cases and see if you find one there or any SFF case you like. Fans can be quiet and heatsinks can be swapped.
Igo said:
Do I really need a 550W PSU for HD78xx/2500k/2 external usb hd's/ 2 7200 1tb drives or could I save some money on a 430/450?
Click to expand...
If you are spending that much get a good PSU. 550W is more than you need, but built well and will handle any single GPU upgrade you get down the line.
gutterboy44 said:
Can't decide between the Mushkin 120GB Chronos Enhanced (On Sale $154) or the Samsung 830 128GB ($209)

Side note, how do you upgrade an SSD firmware before installing the OS on it? Do you have to attach it to an already built computer and upgrade it that way first? My existing computer definitely does not have a Intel SATA controller, but I hope that doesn't effect firmware upgrades.
Click to expand...
Some you can make bootable USB/CDs and flash it like that.

I'd just get the M4 at the Samsung Price. Not a personal fan of SandForce drives yet.
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820148442
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820148448
Vik_Vaughn said:
is the i5 significantly better, though? I just feel like even though I really didn't want to spend anything here, the fact is that I am, and I may as well try to future proof as best as possible since I'm going through the trouble. I'd just like to know if the difference is ~$90 'better'.
Click to expand...
It is significantly better in the more demanding games that want a Quad core and it will likely serve you very well in the years to come. If you can budget it in it's worth it. If you can't really budget it in now, you can pick up an vy Bridge CPU later on and sell the i3.
 
creid

creid

Member
Going to be buying a new desktop soon, I've been using laptops for the past 10 years or so. Is there a good rule of thumb for picking the right size monitor? I know the rule for TVs based on how far you will be sitting, but I assume it's different for computer monitors.
 
H

Hazaro

relies on auto-aim
Previous said:
Just how tight should the screws holding my corsair h80 to the mother board be? Ive tightened them just to the point of it being snug and secure, it feels like I could tighten them a lot more if I put a little pressure into it but I'm not sure.
Click to expand...
Pics!

I tighten by turning normally until it can't tighten anymore, then forcefully tighten it another quarter turn. If it's already tightly on you aren't going to see any temp difference most likely.
creid said:
Going to be buying a new desktop soon, I've been using laptops for the past 10 years or so. Is there a good rule of thumb for picking the right size monitor? I know the rule for TVs based on how far you will be sitting, but I assume it's different for computer monitors.
Click to expand...
Big as you feel comfortable on your desk. Pixel density is already pretty small so it's not as much a factor as TVs
 
D

Double D

Member
Thanks for all the help, guys. I think I'm going to go with the i5, along with the motherboard and the RAM in the 'Enhanced' section of the OP. I'll let you know once it all comes in, as I'll likely need help getting everything installed and functioning properly.
 
G

gutterboy44

Member
Status
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