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"I need a New PC!" 2012 Thread. Ivy, SSDs, and reading the OP. [Part 2]

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D

Deleted member 22576

Unconfirmed Member
Have you guys ever opened an external hdd? I have a western digital studio 1tb drive. It's about 5 years old.. I think it was actually one of the first, if not the first 1terabyte drives released. I think I want to scavenge the drive to use for backups in my new build. Yeah, I know it's probably on the verge of death itself, but it wouldn't cost me anything.
 
G

golem

Member
Jtwo said:
Have you guys ever opened an external hdd? I have a western digital studio 1tb drive. It's about 5 years old.. I think it was actually one of the first, if not the first 1terabyte drives released. I think I want to scavenge the drive to use for backups in my new build. Yeah, I know it's probably on the verge of death itself, but it wouldn't cost me anything.
Click to expand...

Yes I've cracked open external hd enclosures before and put it in a system.. its just a normal hard drive in there
 
D

Deleted member 22576

Unconfirmed Member
Sweet.

Reading about Planetside2 is like reading about virtual reality.
 
I

IonicSnake

Banned
This might be a stupid question but I'll ask anyway. I have set up so I see my desktop on both my tv and my monitor, so it's the same image, not extended or higher res. My question was, does duplicating the desktop on two monitors require extra work from the PC?
 
X

xJavonta

Banned
IonicSnake said:
This might be a stupid question but I'll ask anyway. I have set up so I see my desktop on both my tv and my monitor, so it's the same image, not extended or higher res. My question was, does duplicating the desktop on two monitors require extra work from the PC?
Click to expand...
I would like to know as well. Logic tells me that replicating the same image would require twice the work but for some reason I feel like its possible that it doesn't.
 
T

TheD

The Detective
xJavonta said:
I would like to know as well. Logic tells me that replicating the same image would require twice the work but for some reason I feel like its possible that it doesn't.
Click to expand...

You can output the same image many times without any visible impact on performance.

It is just sending the one framebuffer to two output encoders.
 
N

n0n44m

Member
scogoth said:
Yes but other way around. I added the rear fan as an intake and side as an intake and added one pull on the monsta. The two pull on the top of the top rad are off because I need some fan splitters (will be here tomorrow). I'm going to buy some more GT fans for the monsta to have a push/pull config, one for the rear, one for the floor and one on the side.

EDIT: running all the fans I have at full and running prime 95 fft and furmark.

CPU - 71C (about the same as the NH-D14, little cooler)
GPUs - 50C/52C
Water - 42C
GPU1 Backplate - 50
GPU2 Backplate - 67
Click to expand...

hmm I've never ran FurMark before on the 670s , so I just did :)

1st thing I discovered : FurMark + P95 = PSU shutdown

so HX650 ain't enough for 670SLI @ 1.21v + 4.8 GHz 2600K @1.4v when running a dual torture test :p

never had that during gaming obviously, then again Furmark = double the Heaven Benchmark amount of heat in Watt according to the Aquaero

anyway here is a screenshot from just Furmark [1024 something windowed, PostFX + Extreme Burn-In enabled, 8x MSAA] (already way hotter than any game I've played before)



first; yeah there's a 12c difference between my GPUs ... normal gaming this is around 6c to 8c --> FurMark + higher stress on 1st GPU I guess ? Haven't seen the GPU power % exceed 90% before either :p

second; usually GPU-only blocks are more efficient than fullcover ones, so your water temps are indeed higher than mine because your GPUs are as hot or hotter than mine ...

still I feel your 42c water is a bit high to get such GPU & CPU temps ... I think it is somewhat lower or my GPU 1 block isn't attached properly :p (i.e. with 42c water my GPU1 would be 67c , GPU2 55c...) slightly above 35c seems more likely IMHO

what sensor is it? what temperature is the water on idle/during gaming ? are your cards overvolted as well?

FYI I'm using the Aquacomputer inline sensors; 1 before and 1 after the blocks, plus 4 ambient ones. Radiator is 9*140, push only. Normal figures during BF3 are ~28c water (24 ambient) , up to 275W Power, both sets of radiator fans running at ~600 RPM, GPU 1 45c max GPU 2 38c max

also the bottom clamps on your RAM sticks #1 & #3 don't seem to be completely pressed down :p

but it looks damn good ! congrats with the setup

no 24h leak test before use btw? ;)
 
Fongul

Fongul

Member
I'm looking to start from scratch with building a system as I am currently running a P4 with a GeForce 6800 (how about them apples), but was on the fence to replace my current monitor (Dell UltraSharp 2405FPW). I'm thinking even if the monitor supports 1920X1080 that I would be better served by purchasing a new monitor.

Anyone have ideas for this as a replacement?

ASUS VS278Q-P Black 27" 1ms
 
P

Prozel

Member
God damnit... I went to the BIOS to give the CPU 3570K a slight voltage increase (1.26) and now the damn thing is stuck a the splash. I dont have any idea what to do. It wont even allow me to boot my DVD.

It's Gigabyte z77n btw.
 
Garou

Garou

Member
scogoth said:
Up and running again! No more work on this thing...... at least till this weekend
fsBxy.jpg

Sorry for the not-DLSR photos, can't find my nikon charger.
Click to expand...

That is the most beautiful cable-work I've ever seen!
 
N

n0n44m

Member
Prozel said:
God damnit... I went to the BIOS to give the CPU 3570K a slight voltage increase (1.26) and now the damn thing is stuck a the splash. I dont have any idea what to do. It wont even allow me to boot my DVD.

It's Gigabyte z77n btw.
Click to expand...

CMOS reset ?
 
Xdrive05

Xdrive05

Member
Prozel said:
God damnit... I went to the BIOS to give the CPU 3570K a slight voltage increase (1.26) and now the damn thing is stuck a the splash. I dont have any idea what to do. It wont even allow me to boot my DVD.

It's Gigabyte z77n btw.
Click to expand...

Flip the Clear CMOS switch/button/jumper or yank the CMOS battery for a minute and pop it back in.
 
Xdrive05

Xdrive05

Member
Prozel said:
I love ALL OF YOU! It helped, thanks a lot guys. The noob learned something once again.
Click to expand...

You're welcome. In the old days we used to keep dental floss under the CMOS battery because we had to yank 'em so often whilst overclocking. Things are much better now.
 
N

n0n44m

Member
Xdrive05 said:
You're welcome. In the old days we used to keep dental floss under the CMOS battery because we had to yank 'em so often whilst overclocking. Things are much better now.
Click to expand...

hehe there were also these special IO port brackets with a CMOS reset switch jumper cabled to them. So you could reset the bios from the back of your PC without opening it up

Prozel said:
Haha, so I guess OC can cause the motherboard to get stuck at the splash screen?
Click to expand...

yeah ... but usually not "just" an higher voltage.

i.e. no overclock but higher voltage shouldn't crash (unless the voltage is extreme) ; so I presume you also set a higher overclock ?
 
Xdrive05

Xdrive05

Member
Prozel said:
Haha, so I guess OC can cause the motherboard to get stuck at the splash screen?
Click to expand...

Yes, if you OC it in such a way that it is not stable enough to read the bios or load the MBR and the OS. Note that this doesn't necessarily mean you pushed it too high and reached your build's limit. It could be a balance issue where one component is stressed while the others are not even close to where they can run at stably.

But that's not the only cause for that sort of instability. There are a lot of BIOS settings that deal with things other than the CPU, RAM or chipset, that can cause a splash screen freeze, depending on any number of things. I have an old Asrock 939 dual sataII board that has some kind of tolerance and compatibility setting that was bricking it when enabled on with any kind of OC (even a minor volt change like yours), ironically enough... tolerance, eh?

The bottom line is computers are complicated, and the best thing you can do is research your motherboard on popular tech and OC forums, and use user-written OC guides for your board. Good luck! Remember to clear your CMOS if it ever hangs at the splash screen again.
 
P

Prozel

Member
n0n44m said:
i.e. no overclock but higher voltage shouldn't crash (unless the voltage is extreme) ; so I presume you also set a higher overclock ?
Click to expand...
Indeed I did. I also OC'ed it to 4,5 Ghz-

The bottom line is computers are complicated, and the best thing you can do is research your motherboard on popular tech and OC forums, and use user-written OC guides for your board. Good luck! Remember to clear your CMOS if it ever hangs at the splash screen again.

Xdrive05 said:
The bottom line is computers are complicated, and the best thing you can do is research your motherboard on popular tech and OC forums, and use user-written OC guides for your board. Good luck! Remember to clear your CMOS if it ever hangs at the splash screen again.
Click to expand...


Thanks. The guide I read was actually a Gigabyte and Z77 from what I recall, but hey I learned something very important today! :p
 
L

Laughter 7

Neo Member
Hey do any of you guise know what panel is inside the Yamakasi Catleap 2703 27" monitor. I.e. is it the same one that's in the Catleap Q270?
 
S

scogoth

Member
n0n44m said:
hmm I've never ran FurMark before on the 670s , so I just did :)

1st thing I discovered : FurMark + P95 = PSU shutdown

so HX650 ain't enough for 670SLI @ 1.21v + 4.8 GHz 2600K @1.4v when running a dual torture test :p

never had that during gaming obviously, then again Furmark = double the Heaven Benchmark amount of heat in Watt according to the Aquaero

anyway here is a screenshot from just Furmark [1024 something windowed, PostFX + Extreme Burn-In enabled, 8x MSAA] (already way hotter than any game I've played before)



first; yeah there's a 12c difference between my GPUs ... normal gaming this is around 6c to 8c --> FurMark + higher stress on 1st GPU I guess ? Haven't seen the GPU power % exceed 90% before either :p

second; usually GPU-only blocks are more efficient than fullcover ones, so your water temps are indeed higher than mine because your GPUs are as hot or hotter than mine ...

still I feel your 42c water is a bit high to get such GPU & CPU temps ... I think it is somewhat lower or my GPU 1 block isn't attached properly :p (i.e. with 42c water my GPU1 would be 67c , GPU2 55c...) slightly above 35c seems more likely IMHO

what sensor is it? what temperature is the water on idle/during gaming ? are your cards overvolted as well?

FYI I'm using the Aquacomputer inline sensors; 1 before and 1 after the blocks, plus 4 ambient ones. Radiator is 9*140, push only. Normal figures during BF3 are ~28c water (24 ambient) , up to 275W Power, both sets of radiator fans running at ~600 RPM, GPU 1 45c max GPU 2 38c max

also the bottom clamps on your RAM sticks #1 & #3 don't seem to be completely pressed down :p

but it looks damn good ! congrats with the setup

no 24h leak test before use btw? ;)
Click to expand...

Its the monsoon sensor which I don't trust very much. After adding some more intake fans to my case the temps dropped to 35C under the torture test. You have 9x140 I have 5x120 so I have a lot less surface area. The problem I think is my PC is under my desk so the heat has nowhere to exhaust to. The extra fans I'm hoping will increase pressure in the case and help expel the heat farther away. Also the pull fans that aren't currently running make a huge difference as they would really push the heat away.

As for leak test I live dangerously=> (a lot of the connections didn't change from before)
 
N

n0n44m

Member
scogoth said:
Its the monsoon sensor which I don't trust very much. After adding some more intake fans to my case the temps dropped to 35C under the torture test. You have 9x140 I have 5x120 so I have a lot less surface area. The problem I think is my PC is under my desk so the heat has nowhere to exhaust to. The extra fans I'm hoping will increase pressure in the case and help expel the heat farther away. Also the pull fans that aren't currently running make a huge difference as they would really push the heat away.

As for leak test I live dangerously=> (a lot of the connections didn't change from before)
Click to expand...

yeah the 9*140 means I have a lot of reserve ... I just set the Aquaero temperature control to 3.5c water-ambient delta and fans stay at 500 rpm for the most point ... hell on idle only 3 out of 9 actually run ;p

but as for your temp sensor; connect 1 or more of the ambient sensors (you got 4 with the Aquaero right?) , set all radiator fans to maximum, set CPU to stock with energy saving enabled, and let it idle your Windows desktop for 10 minutes. At that point water temperature should be just about equal to ambient temperate sensor(s) :)

If the difference is still large you can then adjust the sensor a bit in the Aquasuite or on the device itself
 
L

Ledsen

Member
Xdrive05 said:
Yes, if you OC it in such a way that it is not stable enough to read the bios or load the MBR and the OS. Note that this doesn't necessarily mean you pushed it too high and reached your build's limit. It could be a balance issue where one component is stressed while the others are not even close to where they can run at stably.

But that's not the only cause for that sort of instability. There are a lot of BIOS settings that deal with things other than the CPU, RAM or chipset, that can cause a splash screen freeze, depending on any number of things. I have an old Asrock 939 dual sataII board that has some kind of tolerance and compatibility setting that was bricking it when enabled on with any kind of OC (even a minor volt change like yours), ironically enough... tolerance, eh?

The bottom line is computers are complicated, and the best thing you can do is research your motherboard on popular tech and OC forums, and use user-written OC guides for your board. Good luck! Remember to clear your CMOS if it ever hangs at the splash screen again.
Click to expand...

I have a 2500k overclocked to 4.5 GHz through a simple multiplied change (33 to 45). Temps are completely stable and in Windows I've never had any problems, neither BSOD nor freezes nor crashes of any kind. However at startup, it usually takes quite a while (like 5-10 seconds) to detect the RAM and continue the boot process, and a few times (maybe 5-10 times since I got the system last december) it has gotten stuck on that screen and I had to reboot. Should I just continue to ignore it or could there be a problem?
 
R

Relix

he's Virgin Tight™
So happy with my build. Thanks a million to you guys and for that absolutely helpful OP. Based off my build on that and some personal touches. Its blazing fast, and Metro on DX11 1080p all High is awesome. At 45+FPS
 
R

Relix

he's Virgin Tight™
I do have one question....

The motherboard gives me two options... PCIE X2 and PCIEX4... currently its set to X2. Should I set it to X4?
 
T

Thraktor

Member
RS4- said:
Probably one of the weirdest GPUs I've seen in a long time: Gigabyte 7970 Super OC
Click to expand...

Looks like it'd be noisy as hell. It does have me wondering why nobody's come out with a GPU with a CPU-style cooler that takes up 4 or 5 slots, and has big fans each end doing push-pull. It'd have to come with a couple of struts to keep it from tearing the PCIe socket right out of the board, but people looking for powerful, quiet, air-cooled single-card rigs might go for it.
 
N

n0n44m

Member
Thraktor said:
Looks like it'd be noisy as hell. It does have me wondering why nobody's come out with a GPU with a CPU-style cooler that takes up 4 or 5 slots, and has big fans each end doing push-pull. It'd have to come with a couple of struts to keep it from tearing the PCIe socket right out of the board, but people looking for powerful, quiet, air-cooled single-card rigs might go for it.
Click to expand...

Thermaltake Shaman is kinda like that... But the main issue for GPUs are the VRMs ==> Most flagship cards can use as much power as a 2600K

Small heatsinks for those only work with lots of airflow unfortunately.

With energy efficient cards (like the 670) there are luckily plenty of manufacturers available who have some decent, low noise non-reference coolers on their cards
 
S

Sethos

Banned
Thraktor said:
Looks like it'd be noisy as hell.
Click to expand...

Funny that any hardware producer would use small, shitty fans

The chart above only tells half the story unfortunately. While the Windforce 5X heatsink may look like a relatively mild mannered heatsink in our results, its fans tend to produce most of their noise within higher octaves, a characteristic that becomes quite annoying. Instead of the standard fan noise, be expected for a relatively distracting high pitched whine. So while the Super Overclock isn’t necessarily loud, its fans do produce a unique acoustical signature which isn’t normally associated with high end gaming products from this century.
Click to expand...
 
Xdrive05

Xdrive05

Member
Ledsen said:
I have a 2500k overclocked to 4.5 GHz through a simple multiplied change (33 to 45). Temps are completely stable and in Windows I've never had any problems, neither BSOD nor freezes nor crashes of any kind. However at startup, it usually takes quite a while (like 5-10 seconds) to detect the RAM and continue the boot process, and a few times (maybe 5-10 times since I got the system last december) it has gotten stuck on that screen and I had to reboot. Should I just continue to ignore it or could there be a problem?
Click to expand...

Do stock speeds (x33 multi) yield the same hangup when looking for RAM, or is that only while OC'ed?

Have you ever run memory diagnostic tests to look for RAM errors? Memtest86 was the gold standard for...forever. Not sure what is used these days.

Might also have something to do with your RAM timings or mode. Never had that happen to me.
 
S

Salsa

Member
ithorien said:
Salsa what's the windows visual style you're using? Saw in one of your screenshots a while back.
Click to expand...

oh dude I dont know why I didnt respond to that PM, I saw it and totally forgot

I actually dont remember :| Im gonna try and find out and i'll get back to ya
 
T

Thraktor

Member
mkenyon said:
Prolimatech MK-26 takes up 3.5 slots with fans installed. Two 120mm fans.

http://www.tweaktown.com/reviews/4993/prolimatech_mk_26_video_card_cooler_review/index7.html

And yeah, that Gigabyte card is crazy loud. Those are server fans.
Click to expand...

n0n44m said:
Thermaltake Shaman is kinda like that... But the main issue for GPUs are the VRMs ==> Most flagship cards can use as much power as a 2600K

Small heatsinks for those only work with lots of airflow unfortunately.

With energy efficient cards (like the 670) there are luckily plenty of manufacturers available who have some decent, low noise non-reference coolers on their cards
Click to expand...

I was thinking more along the lines of a tower cooler, something like this strapped onto the card:

noctua_nh_u9dx_3.jpg


(It's a dual-Xeon cooler, but about as close in size and length as I can find)

It'd be on the batshit crazy end of things, but then again so's the Gigabyte.
 
M

mkenyon

Banned
Alienups said:
My ping has gone up by around 50 in online games since i got my new pc. Anyone know what might be causing it ?
Click to expand...
Would have to troubleshoot this one. Try a different cable, make sure your LAN drivers are installed, uninstall your LAN drivers and reinstall them, use a different port on your router, etc etc etc.

No way to know otherwise.
Thraktor said:
I was thinking more along the lines of a tower cooler, something like this strapped onto the card:

(It's a dual-Xeon cooler, but about as close in size and length as I can find)

It'd be on the batshit crazy end of things, but then again so's the Gigabyte.
Click to expand...
Doesn't work in terms of fitting in the space provided. You have like what, 30mm of clearance between the GPU and the motherboard? The designs then incorporate going towards the front and rear of the case instead. Since it's more spread out, it might look a bit less ridiculous, but I'd imagine the total fin surface area on a DCII cooler is pretty similar to these guys.
 
T

Tank

Neo Member
Hey guys,

Looking to build a PC for home use.

Uses include:

Gaming at 1080p - Games like AC3, Rome II, Skyrim with loads of mods
Video editing - Recreationally, 1080P High-Def Content
Dolphin Emulator
Internet/music


I am looking for help picking out:

Motherboard
Case
Ram
PSU
Video Card
Processor
DVD Drive


$800-$1k Budget (I would prefer to stay on the low end, but if there is value, I would pay up to $1k
 
I

Infinite Justice

Member
Tank said:
Hey guys,

Looking to build a PC for home use.

Uses include:

Gaming at 1080p - Games like AC3, Rome II, Skyrim with loads of mods
Video editing - Recreationally, 1080P High-Def Content
Dolphin Emulator
Internet/music


I am looking for help picking out:

Motherboard
Case
Ram
PSU
Video Card
Processor
DVD Drive


$800-$1k Budget (I would prefer to stay on the low end, but if there is value, I would pay up to $1k
Click to expand...


Check the builds from the OP and the price ranges (if you want you can mix and match a bit). Also note these are throughly researched by the OP and are good parts you can get for your money (price, reliability, etc) so if you dont see something (say AMD processors for example) its not because of fanboyisim or any shit like that but for a legit reason .

Once you have a list of parts you like then post it again for more queries/suggestions
 
D

Damian.

Banned
I currently have a 2600k and have exhausted my need for HT after converting my entire DVD/BD collection to digital. I see that I can pretty much trade straight up for a 3570k. Would it be worth it for future gaming, or should I just stick with the 2600k and have the benefit of being able to turn on HT when necessary?
 
D

Deleted member 22576

Unconfirmed Member
09z2o.jpg
Click to expand...
So my brd drive didn't come with screws. :X any idea what size these might be and could Imjust grab them at RadioShack?
 
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