Important to remember for those looking for sweet BF4 action that only Win8 supports the DX 11.2 features.
I believe it is the first game to have 11.2 stuff in it.
BF4 is DX 11.1 as far as I can tell, first 11.2 game will be Titanfall.
Important to remember for those looking for sweet BF4 action that only Win8 supports the DX 11.2 features.
I believe it is the first game to have 11.2 stuff in it.
BF4 is DX 11.1 as far as I can tell, first 11.2 game will be Titanfall.
Dice say there's some shit in 11.1 that works better in 8. There's some article somewhere.
GAF, I need help. I have a plethora of PC builds under my belt, but lately I've been having trouble changing my ways and getting away from old tech. And that tech is optical drives. Fuck those things. My last 3 builds have been drive-less, and overall it has been wonderful, except I can't figure out a way to install Windows without one.
I bought an external USB optical drive for drivers, games, whatever - and it works great - but it doesn't ever seem to be bootable. Something about UEFI..... So lately what I've been having to do is temporarily hook up an internal drive, install Windows, then unhook it. Kind of annoying.
What's an easy way to (re)install Windows on a machine without using an optical drive?
Hey all. What do you think a good price would be as far as selling this used GPU?
EVGA gtx 670 FTW
Has original box, stickers, manual, extra plastics, etc.
Used, but in amazing condition.
Has been overclocked to about 1300 MHz and stable.
Just wondering because I'm probably looking to sell it on here/craigslist/ebay sometime soon and put the money towards a 770.
If anything, 770/780 will get cheaper as well to compete with AMD.
I hope.
Can you borrow a USB pen off someone and use it? Or if you have one use it.
Depends on how much of an upgrade the new AMD stuff is.
7970 Ghz edition is 30% behind the 780 in some titles @ 1440p.
That is a huge jump to make for a non shrink generation.
30% is barely anything and is typical of minor revs. That's like reducing something like MSAAx8 to MSAAx4.
Wouldn't buy one of those tbh. Worth extra $ for the Samsungs.
Some quick pics of my build before I tore it down.
$30 more for the Samsung in Canada. But yeah.Wouldn't buy one of those tbh. Worth extra $ for the Samsungs.
Don't even get me started about that pipe. I had to import a $100 bender with $70 shipping from the UK to get a small enough radius when I do it during the rebuild.
As to why I had to tear it down, blew a cap during over clocking. Mind you, really limited OCing. Only 4.3GHz with 1.35V when it happened. Faulty mobo.
Would mean per stick.In this article about DDR4:
http://arstechnica.com/gadgets/2013/08/samsung-mass-produces-ddr4-which-still-has-nowhere-to-go/
When it says "...DDR4 RAM modules in 16GB and 32GB capacities...", does that mean sets of RAM that are that big (2 or 4 sticks) or single sticks, or I dunno?
Would mean per stick.
I don't think I could ever do a liquid cooling system like this, too much time maintaining it and worrying that it'll spring a leak.Some quick pics of my build before I tore it down.
Actually, I just tried looking at pcpartpicker and it shows modules as the total of a set of RAM, so I guess it's actually something like 2x8GB or 4x8GB setups. If 16GB sticks started coming out though, I wouldn't complain :3
DIMM, Dual Inline Memory Module
Would be safe it assume its per stick
Simple 10mm push fittings. They are available from Performance PC's and Aquatuning. Then 10mm copper pipe too, I get mine from McMasters.Could you be awesome and share details about the parts for tubing and fittings for that waterloop.
I have been salivating over the hard tubing WC setups over on OCN and I think I may undertake this route when the time comes.
It's actually about as safe and as easy as it gets. Way less chance of a leak compared to standard stuff. Push fittings do not use O rings and were designed with NASA to prevent what happened to the challenger.I don't think I could ever do a liquid cooling system like this, too much time maintaining it and worrying that it'll spring a leak.
But the idea of it is awesome.
Any UK Gaffers need a dirt cheap 60GB SSD? Aria have OCZ Agility recerts for £25. Wouldn't use it for anything important.
Replace it.
Software diagnostics might tell you your drive has a serious issue but it'll then go on to last years. Or the drive is fine but it'll fail again tomorrow.
It's always best to replace mechanical drives at the first sign of trouble (unusual sounds, lengthy access times etc) or after a couple years - whichever comes first.
Okay GAF, my 8800 GTX just died, I have $300 to spend, would prefer a Canadian online retailer.
What's the hotness, the GTX 760? Or is the Radeon 79xx (50, 70) a better choice?
Currently eyeballing this: http://www.ncix.ca/products/?sku=85587&vpn=GV-N760OC-2GD REV2.0&manufacture=Gigabyte
7950 is insane value right now. If you want nVidia get the 760Okay GAF, my 8800 GTX just died, I have $300 to spend, would prefer a Canadian online retailer.
What's the hotness, the GTX 760? Or is the Radeon 79xx (50, 70) a better choice?
Currently eyeballing this: http://www.ncix.ca/products/?sku=85587&vpn=GV-N760OC-2GD REV2.0&manufacture=Gigabyte
Check your temps and shake the case to see if there's anything loose inside causing a short.Strange thing while installing windows tonight, system is all together and working beautifully, except on every couple of restarts. It just doesn't come back up. HDD light flashes like theres activity and its doing something, but no video. Power button shuts down the system with just a press. Restart button fixes it fine. Has happened several times now when restarting for various windows updates or drivers. Not every time however.
Vdroop is normal and those ranges are fine. It's a protective mechanism for the CPU and your voltage is super low so it's not a concern at all.Hi guys. I'm trying to overclock my new 3570K + MSI Z77A-G45 rig and I have a few questions, I'm a total noob but I read the guides in the OP and I think I understood the basics:
- When I set the voltage from the bios there's usually a discrepancy between the value I set (in this example 1.165v), the value shown by the bios (1.156v) and the value displayed by CPU-Z (1.144v). Is this normal? Apparently it's something that comes with the mainboard since an italian review I read says that happened to them as well. Which voltage value is more trustworthy though? The one in the bios or the one in CPU-Z?
- When I set the card in overclock mode I basically lose the cpu throttling feature. I don't mind terribly but I read somewhere that Ivy Bridge's throttling is something you don't want to disable since it's very good and it prolongs the life of the cpu a lot. SpeedStep (EIST) and C1E are both enabled, still I don't see the cpu going back and forth between 1600Mhz and whatever frequency I set with the multiplier. Is this acceptable or I should try to set throttling back in place?
- Even though I set vDrool to 100% the voltage is still very variable, it can usually go in a ±0.008 range as far as I can tell. It this a motherboard's fault?
Thanks!
Wouldn't buy one of those tbh. Worth extra $ for the Samsungs.
Ivy Bridge E launched, but no new motherboards?
4820K is less than 4770K. http://www.scan.co.uk/products/inte...ivy-bridge-quad-core-37ghz-39ghz-turbo-retail Although it will have lesser per core performance to a Haswell by a small amount. It will overclock better to make up for that. Hmm.
When using a wireless Xbox 360 controller on a PC, does the controller come with a USB dongle or does the PC automatically connect to it? Or do you need a wired one?
This DS3 driver support looks complicated
What is the difference between 2x 4GB (8GB) of ram and just one stick of 8 GB ram? I opted to go with one 8 gb stick of corsair vengeance ram. Did I make a mistake?
Check your temps and shake the case to see if there's anything loose inside causing a short.
Depends on the game, as crossfire still suffers from a number of problems where you might be getting worse performance than a single 7970.Quick question.
I have two Radeon HD 7970s in Crossfire mode. Is there a single card out that would give me commensurate performance or higher? I haven't been happy with the overall stability of running these and I'm thinking of going back to a one card setup, but obviously don't want to sacrifice performance.
Quick question.
I have two Radeon HD 7970s in Crossfire mode. Is there a single card out that would give me commensurate performance or higher? I haven't been happy with the overall stability of running these and I'm thinking of going back to a one card setup, but obviously don't want to sacrifice performance.
Better performance with dual channel as it's double the bandwidth. You'll still be fine with one stick though, it's not going to make your PC grind to a halt.