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[Killer Queen]

You should look into Tamron and Sigma lenses, they're pretty good third party manufactures, just don't go too old cause that's when they were having quality issues. Tokina makes good ultra wide angle lenses from what I've heard.

Will definitely do! Thank you

VF = view finder -- the little circle you look through when shooting photos if the camera has one

EVF = electronic view finder, which is used in mirroless cameras. I believe all manufactures support manual focusing assistance. The camera will provide visual aid to show you which area is in focus based on your current settings. Most common style is by overlaying white/red/blue color over that area. It's not 100% accurate but definitely good enough and makes manual focus less of a guessing game. DSLRs these days also provide this functionality in Live View mode (using the LCD screen on the back of the camera) -- you would have to check to see if camera you are interested supports it.



OVF = optical view finder, which you find on traditional DSLRs. Pentaprism and pentamirror are different materials used to re-direct the light to your view finder. Pentaprism results in brighter view finder makes pretty big difference for manual focusing imo. You can read more about how it works mechanically here: http://photographyinsider.info/pentaprism-vs-pentamirror-which-is-better/

You can typically swap out the focusing screen for mid-higher end DSLR. The one shown here is split type -- meaning if you are in focus the top and lower half will become one.

Also some DSLRs can tell you if you are in focus while using manual lenses in the OVF. I know Pentax ones all do that now. I haven't kept up with Canon enough to know which ones do/don't.

Ah okay, thanks that's definitely a lot more helpful

 

[Astral/H3X]

If Samyang lenses are interesting you, I would recommend picking up a vintage lens or two first to see how you handle manual focusing. Not only are many of them *even cheaper*, but a lot of lenses are still very good, if not top tier. Much better to try out on a lesser investment to see if it's something you think you wouldn't mind sticking with. For APSC it can be hard to find a lens that will be 35mm without it costing a pretty penny, but there are *lots* of 50mm ones that you can use as portrait. I would recommend either a Canon FD 50mm 1.4 or a Pentax K (not KA) 50mm 1.4. I found that the Pentax one had "better" color rendition, but the Canon felt like it had a bit more flavor.

My bag is full of nothing but Samyang lenses, but I still have my Canon 50mm 1.4 from the film era, and I have no plans for replacing it. Costed me like what, $80 total for it and the adapter?

I would *NOT* recommend trying manual focus on a modern DSLR unless you can change it to a different focusing screen. Trying to focus MF with absolutely no guide is really, really hard. Having that split screen can make it a lot easier, but I still find mirrorless focus peaking to be the easiest (also you can actually zoom in on a spot to make super sure you've got it right). As for live view on a DSLR, it might be fine for a here and there use, but full time usage you'd be sacrificing a lot in your handling of the camera.

 

[jongkookie]

I would *NOT* recommend trying manual focus on a modern DSLR unless you can change it to a different focusing screen. Trying to focus MF with absolutely no guide is really, really hard. Having that split screen can make it a lot easier, but I still find mirrorless focus peaking to be the easiest (also you can actually zoom in on a spot to make super sure you've got it right). As for live view on a DSLR, it might be fine for a here and there use, but full time usage you'd be sacrificing a lot in your handling of the camera.

Huh??

My D3200 has 11 focusing points on the OVF and there's a little dot on the bottom left that lights up when that selected focus point is in focus. I'm pretty sure that's standard to all DSLR's...

 

[JadedWriter]

Huh??

My D3200 has 11 focusing points on the OVF and there's a little dot on the bottom left that lights up when that selected focus point is in focus. I'm pretty sure that's standard to all DSLR's...

Yep, same thing happens with mine. You have to half press the shutter to view it. I might even start experimenting with it during shoots.

 

[RuGalz]

Huh??

My D3200 has 11 focusing points on the OVF and there's a little dot on the bottom left that lights up when that selected focus point is in focus. I'm pretty sure that's standard to all DSLR's...

It's limited to center focus point and Canon/Nikon lenses need to have chip in it to work it seems like from a bit of Googling. Pentax is also center point only but works with all lenses. Mirrorless works without chip and doesn't really care what focus point.

 

[JadedWriter]

It's limited to center focus point and Canon/Nikon lenses need to have chip in it to work it seems like from a bit of Googling. Pentax is also center point only but works with all lenses. Mirrorless works without chip and doesn't really care what focus point.

I took out my 18-35 art and messed around with it and it seems to work on all focus points since I didn't have it on the center point, rarely do actually. Unless the 7100 and 3200 are that different.

 

[jongkookie]

It's limited to center focus point and Canon/Nikon lenses need to have chip in it to work it seems like from a bit of Googling. Pentax is also center point only but works with all lenses. Mirrorless works without chip and doesn't really care what focus point.

I'm not sure if you're right about needing a chip in the lens for the focus point to work. All of the lenses I use came from the 70's so I don't see how they'd have a chip inside since you know... autofocus wasn't even a thing back then.

That image above is what I see inside my D3200's OVF and all those 11 focusing points work with my MF lenses. The D3200 is also Nikon's entry-level DSLR so it seems really dumb if only Nikon can do this.

Yep, same thing happens with mine. You have to half press the shutter to view it. I might even start experimenting with it during shoots.

Do it.

It's literally the only reason why I haven't bought any modern lenses. All of my MF lenses work with this feature and if I really need to be anal about the focus, I jump over to live-view and just zoom in using the screen.

 

[RuGalz]

I took out my 18-35 art and messed around with it and it seems to work on all focus points since I didn't have it on the center point, rarely do actually. Unless the 7100 and 3200 are that different.

I think it works with AF capable lenses. I was thinking vintage lenses. Let me test this out. Maybe I'm just thinking of the 'catch in focus' feature that's on my camera.

 

[JadedWriter]

I'm not sure if you're right about needing a chip in the lens for the focus point to work. All of the lenses I use came from the 70's so I don't see how they'd have a chip inside since you know... autofocus wasn't even a thing back then.

That image above is what I see inside my D3200's OVF and all those 11 focusing points work with my MF lenses. The D3200 is also Nikon's entry-level DSLR so it seems really dumb if only Nikon can do this.



Do it.

It's literally the only reason why I haven't bought any modern lenses. All of my MF lenses work with this feature and if I really need to be anal about the focus, I jump over to live-view and just zoom in using the screen.

I'll probably do it more depending on the lens. Some of the focus rings are just ass on some lenses.

 

[RuGalz]

I'm not sure if you're right about needing a chip in the lens for the focus point to work. All of the lenses I use came from the 70's so I don't see how they'd have a chip inside since you know... autofocus wasn't even a thing back then.

That image above is what I see inside my D3200's OVF and all those 11 focusing points work with my MF lenses. The D3200 is also Nikon's entry-level DSLR so it seems really dumb if only Nikon can do this.

You are right. https://camerakai.wordpress.com/2013/10/29/tips-when-using-older-manual-focus-lenses-on-nikon/

 

[Ty4on]

You are right. https://camerakai.wordpress.com/2013/10/29/tips-when-using-older-manual-focus-lenses-on-nikon/

I think it's because EF was made with autofocus from day one while Nikon has an incentive for backwards compatibility with manual lenses. Same with Pentax.

Canon cameras can be fooled by a fairly dumb chip so they clearly have the capability in hardware.

That image above is what I see inside my D3200's OVF and all those 11 focusing points work with my MF lenses. The D3200 is also Nikon's entry-level DSLR so it seems really dumb if only Nikon can do this.

If you haven't already, there should be an option hidden in the menus (God, I hate those menus) to set the exposure comp. needles to show a crude rangefinder which tells you which way to focus.

 

[Astral/H3X]

I've used the little OVF markers before, where it has the little red light that comes on, but I didn't find it anywhere near as nice to use as a split screen or focus peaking. Might just be me not using it *much* though.

 

[jongkookie]

I'll probably do it more depending on the lens. Some of the focus rings are just ass on some lenses.

At least you don't have those Vivitar Series 1 lenses I keep harping about where the focus ring is backwards... or is it the Nikkor lenses that are backwards instead? Idk lol.

But it trips me up a lot when I switch between those two brands haha.

If you haven't already, there should be an option hidden in the menus (God, I hate those menus) to set the exposure comp. needles to show a crude rangefinder which tells you which way to focus.

There's another option besides the rangefinder? It actually doesn't work on mine, though my understanding is that the meter becomes a exposure meter instead of a focus distance meter in manual mode, even then I don't see an exposure meter lol. Maybe it's coz I'm running custom firmware?

Anyway, it doesn't bother me much. What I usually do is pop in live view mode first to get my bearings in terms of exposure then adjust ISO, SS and aperture then go back to the OVF and just shoot. I've gotten so used to this that it's become second nature to me, sorta like driving stick lol.

I've used the little OVF markers before, where it has the little red light that comes on, but I didn't find it anywhere near as nice to use as a split screen or focus peaking. Might just be me not using it *much* though.

I agree that a split screen or focus peaking is awesome. I just think it's a little disingenuous to completely disregard DSLR's just because one brand doesn't have focusing points you can use to focus. It's like saying mirrorless cameras suck because their battery life is horrible and you can only get 500 shots after a full charge. It's somewhat true, but that doesn't mean it's fully representative of what MILC can do.

 

[JadedWriter]

At least you don't have those Vivitar Series 1 lenses I keep harping about where the focus ring is backwards... or is it the Nikkor lenses that are backwards instead? Idk lol.

But it trips me up a lot when I switch between those two brands haha.

I don't enjoy manual focusing on lenses with focus rings the width of a rubber band.

 

[Astral/H3X]

At least you don't have those Vivitar Series 1 lenses I keep harping about where the focus ring is backwards... or is it the Nikkor lenses that are backwards instead? Idk lol.

But it trips me up a lot when I switch between those two brands haha.

I agree that a split screen or focus peaking is awesome. I just think it's a little disingenuous to completely disregard DSLR's just because one brand doesn't have focusing points you can use to focus. It's like saying mirrorless cameras suck because their battery life is horrible and you can only get 500 shots after a full charge. It's somewhat true, but that doesn't mean it's fully representative of what MILC can do.

I don't even know what direction my lenses focus in, because I'm pretty sure my Canon 50 focuses the opposite direction from my Samyangs (Just checked, they focus the same direction. I know I have a lens somewhere that goes some other way though). Or at least the aperture is the other way around. Typically when I slap on a new lens I kind of do a focus go around to get my bearings and I'm good to go.

I suppose I could've been a little strong in my recommendation, but I certainly wouldn't be quick to point to a DSLR if someone was mainly interested in manual/vintage lenses. It's just not where the strengths are.

EDIT:

I don't enjoy manual focusing on lenses with focus rings the width of a rubber band.

The fuck kinda lens are you using lmao. Even these Sony fly by wires have at least large meaty focus rings, even if they suck.

 

[RuGalz]

At least you don't have those Vivitar Series 1 lenses I keep harping about where the focus ring is backwards... or is it the Nikkor lenses that are backwards instead? Idk lol.

Nikon/Pentax/Takumar lenses are inf <----> close. Everyone else is the opposite I think. It's really annoying. I don't own anything that turns the opposite way. On my Fuji, since it's focus by wire, I just set it to be the same in the menu, although I think the default is the same.

 

[Ty4on]

There's another option besides the rangefinder? It actually doesn't work on mine, though my understanding is that the meter becomes a exposure meter instead of a focus distance meter in manual mode, even then I don't see an exposure meter lol. Maybe it's coz I'm running custom firmware?

Anyway, it doesn't bother me much. What I usually do is pop in live view mode first to get my bearings in terms of exposure then adjust ISO, SS and aperture then go back to the OVF and just shoot. I've gotten so used to this that it's become second nature to me, sorta like driving stick lol.

Sounds like you have it turned on, the exposure meter tells you which way to focus. It's quite crude (arrow left/right mostly), but better than just relying on the dot lightning up when in focus.

 

[Astral/H3X]

Nikon/Pentax/Takumar lenses are inf <----> close. Everyone else is the opposite I think. It's really annoying. I don't own anything that turns the opposite way. On my Fuji, since it's focus by wire, I just set it to be the same in the menu, although I think the default is the same.

Ahhhhh, that's right it was my Pentax lenses screwing that up.

 

[JadedWriter]

EDIT:

The fuck kinda lens are you using lmao. Even these Sony fly by wires have at least large meaty focus rings, even if they suck.

From what I remember the Nikon 50mm focus ring and the Sigma 70-200 focus ring is dog shit. They're just these thin things.

 

[RuGalz]

Ahhhhh, that's right it was my Pentax lenses screwing that up.

Interestingly, Tokina/Samyang changes the direction based on the mount to match with the native manufacture's lenses. Not sure about Sigma since I never had one.

From what I remember the Nikon 50mm focus ring and the Sigma 70-200 focus ring is dog shit. They're just these thin things.

Modern lens' focus ring sucks compared to vintage lenses. Also focus throw is much shorter to speed up AF so a tiny turn covers much larger range of distances. MF on vintage lens 'feels good' for these reasons imo.

 

[jongkookie]

I don't even know what direction my lenses focus in, because I'm pretty sure my Canon 50 focuses the opposite direction from my Samyangs (Just checked, they focus the same direction. I know I have a lens somewhere that goes some other way though). Or at least the aperture is the other way around. Typically when I slap on a new lens I kind of do a focus go around to get my bearings and I'm good to go.

I suppose I could've been a little strong in my recommendation, but I certainly wouldn't be quick to point to a DSLR if someone was mainly interested in manual/vintage lenses. It's just not where the strengths are.

EDIT:

The fuck kinda lens are you using lmao. Even these Sony fly by wires have at least large meaty focus rings, even if they suck.

I disagree actually. I think I'd point somebody specifically to a Nikon DSLR if they want cheap or vintage lenses. The backwards compatibility is insane. Like I honestly have no need for any modern lenses right now because I've learned to deal with it. And I can pick up any AI-S lens and above and it'll work on my camera no questions asked.

IIRC I got my 50mm, and the two Vivitar lenses for a total of $250. With that kind of money, you'd probably be able to only afford one decent lens.

But of course if they're not willing to take the time to learn the ins and outs of a camera and just want to go cheap then I guess an MILC will do.

As for the focus ring, this is how it is on my 50mm:

Yes, that tiny strip of rubber is my focus ring. Then again, it is my fault for using a pancake lens.

Nikon/Pentax/Takumar lenses are inf <----> close. Everyone else is the opposite I think. It's really annoying. I don't own anything that turns the opposite way. On my Fuji, since it's focus by wire, I just set it to be the same in the menu, although I think the default is the same.

Lol this is why I get hella confused when I use other lenses. As long as I stay within Nikon, I'll be fine but the moment I switch... yikes lol. I've missed some great shots due to this insanity.

Sounds like you have it turned on, the exposure meter tells you which way to focus. It's quite crude (arrow left/right mostly), but better than just relying on the dot lightning up when in focus.

So that dot is the rangefinder? I'm not getting any arrows actually, but the dot definitely lights up when it's in focus.

 

[Ty4on]

So that dot is the rangefinder? I'm not getting any arrows actually, but the dot definitely lights up when it's in focus.

The dot (which also lights up when you AF) is focus confirmation. The rangefinder is just the exposure meter telling you which way to focus instead of the exposure.

Here it's a left arrow so turn the ring the other way, clockwise, to get it in focus.

 

[JadedWriter]

I disagree actually. I think I'd point somebody specifically to a Nikon DSLR if they want cheap or vintage lenses. The backwards compatibility is insane. Like I honestly have no need for any modern lenses right now because I've learned to deal with it. And I can pick up any AI-S lens and above and it'll work on my camera no questions asked.

IIRC I got my 50mm, and the two Vivitar lenses for a total of $250. With that kind of money, you'd probably be able to only afford one decent lens.

But of course if they're not willing to take the time to learn the ins and outs of a camera and just want to go cheap then I guess an MILC will do.

As for the focus ring, this is how it is on my 50mm:



Yes, that tiny strip of rubber is my focus ring. Then again, it is my fault for using a pancake lens.

The focus ring on my G lens isn't much better either and it's not a pancake 50.

 

[Astral/H3X]

I disagree actually. I think I'd point somebody specifically to a Nikon DSLR if they want cheap or vintage lenses. The backwards compatibility is insane. Like I honestly have no need for any modern lenses right now because I've learned to deal with it. And I can pick up any AI-S lens and above and it'll work on my camera no questions asked.

IIRC I got my 50mm, and the two Vivitar lenses for a total of $250. With that kind of money, you'd probably be able to only afford one decent lens.

But of course if they're not willing to take the time to learn the ins and outs of a camera and just want to go cheap then I guess an MILC will do.

As for the focus ring, this is how it is on my 50mm:



Yes, that tiny strip of rubber is my focus ring. Then again, it is my fault for using a pancake lens.



Lol this is why I get hella confused when I use other lenses. As long as I stay within Nikon, I'll be fine but the moment I switch... yikes lol. I've missed some great shots due to this insanity.



So that dot is the rangefinder? I'm not getting any arrows actually, but the dot definitely lights up when it's in focus.

I'm not sure I'm following. So compatibility with Nikon beats compatibility with Nikon, Canon, Pentax, C Mount, Voigtlander, Leica, Minolta, and whatever else I'm forgetting? Nikons are the least cross compatible cameras in the consumer space. The flange distance means that you just can't mount lenses without losing infinity focus, or using image degrading focus converters.

I also don't get the comment about being cheap and lazy, given that putting a lens on an MILC doesn't magically give it control over AF or aperture. It's exactly as manual as on a Nikon.

 

[JadedWriter]

I'm not sure I'm following. So compatibility with Nikon beats compatibility with Nikon, Canon, Pentax, C Mount, Voigtlander, Leica, Minolta, and whatever else I'm forgetting? Nikons are the least cross compatible cameras in the consumer space. The flange distance means that you just can't mount lenses without losing infinity focus, or using image degrading focus converters.

I also don't get the comment about being cheap and lazy, given that putting a lens on an MILC doesn't magically give it control over AF or aperture. It's exactly as manual as on a Nikon.

I think Jong might have meant that you can do it without having to buy an extra adapter.

 

[Ty4on]

I'm not sure I'm following. So compatibility with Nikon beats compatibility with Nikon, Canon, Pentax, C Mount, Voigtlander, Leica, Minolta, and whatever else I'm forgetting? Nikons are the least cross compatible cameras in the consumer space. The flange distance means that you just can't mount lenses without losing infinity focus, or using image degrading focus converters.

I also don't get the comment about being cheap and lazy, given that putting a lens on an MILC doesn't magically give it control over AF or aperture. It's exactly as manual as on a Nikon.

It's easier without an adapter to fuzz with. The price of adapters isn't always trivial and the cheapest adapters can have bad tolerances.

If the lens is modern enough to have electronic aperture control you just put it in the orange aperture (f22 or f16) and control the aperture from the camera or with auto exposure.

With a higher end Nikon you get the pin that reads the aperture ring and can put the camera into A mode, turn the aperture ring to your desired aperture and let the auto exposure adjust the rest. Unlike with a fully manual, adapted lens you also get to focus with the lens wide open.

Pentaxes don't have a pin measuring the aperture (not any Pentax DSLR that I know of), but if you push the green button it stops the lens down and meters the scene. Most Pentax lenses have an A setting on the aperture ring which means it works like an ordinary lens in terms of metering. Only the first two generations of lenses on K mount lacked the auto setting.

 

[tagrat]

I'm looking to get back into photography and while I'm hopeful that I will fall in love with and do it all the time, sometimes my hobbies fall by the wayside. So with that in mind I'm looking to get something that I can have fun with, but not break the bank. Following the format from the OP:

1. What is your budget? <$500
2. Main purpose of the camera? Fun? Mostly street photography and some landscapes.
3. What form factor is most appealing to you? DSLR
4. Will you be investing in the camera? (buying more stuff for it later) Yes most likely. A decent prime lens to keep on it most of the time.
5. Any cameras you've used before or liked? I've owned a Canon T3i and 7D with multiple lenses (Sigma 30mm and Tokina 11 - 16 mm wide). The ex ended up with them.

I've been a fan of Canon, so I would like to stick with them. Been looking at refurb deals on Canon's site and saw the SL1 for $329. Any suggestions?

 

[jongkookie]

The focus ring on my G lens isn't much better either and it's not a pancake 50.

That seems to be a Nikon prime lens thing... it doesn't bother since I've already got a tiny one but I imagine it could potentially be a pain to use.

I think Jong might have meant that you can do it without having to buy an extra adapter.

It's easier without an adapter to fuzz with. The price of adapters isn't always trivial and the cheapest adapters can have bad tolerances.

If the lens is modern enough to have electronic aperture control you just put it in the orange aperture (f22 or f16) and control the aperture from the camera or with auto exposure.

With a higher end Nikon you get the pin that reads the aperture ring and can put the camera into A mode, turn the aperture ring to your desired aperture and let the auto exposure adjust the rest. Unlike with a fully manual, adapted lens you also get to focus with the lens wide open.

Yep they've got it right.

I know a few people who jumped over to Sony from Canikon and a majority of them regret the switch since the decent adapters cost as much as a new lens or Sony's own lens offering is ridiculously expensive compared to a similar quality Canikon lens or some other 3rd party.

A guy I know was testing out a A7R II and used some expensive Vello adapter on his Canon L lens and the adapter got stuck on the lens. Needless to say pants were almost shat day and that experience kept him away from the A7R. Granted it's anecdotal and only one experience, but that's enough to kinda scare me away too.

 

[JadedWriter]

That seems to be a Nikon prime lens thing... it doesn't bother since I've already got a tiny one but I imagine it could potentially be a pain to use.





Yep they've got it right.

I know a few people who jumped over to Sony from Canikon and a majority of them regret the switch since the decent adapters cost as much as a new lens or Sony's own lens offering is ridiculously expensive compared to a similar quality Canikon lens or some other 3rd party.

A guy I know was testing out a A7R II and used some expensive Vello adapter on his Canon L lens and the adapter got stuck on the lens. Needless to say pants were almost shat day and that experience kept him away from the A7R. Granted it's anecdotal and only one experience, but that's enough to kinda scare me away too.

Holy shit lol, but that's just fucked. No wonder why I don't look at Sony cameras. I think at least Fuji, Panasonic and Olympus have a much more cohesive ecosystem where you don't have adapt everybody else's glass. Yeah Those are just as expensive, but they just seem more friendly to me. That and I just think body wise the Sony's are the most boring looking camera's.

 

[sechsterangriff]

That seems to be a Nikon prime lens thing... it doesn't bother since I've already got a tiny one but I imagine it could potentially be a pain to use.





Yep they've got it right.

I know a few people who jumped over to Sony from Canikon and a majority of them regret the switch since the decent adapters cost as much as a new lens or Sony's own lens offering is ridiculously expensive compared to a similar quality Canikon lens or some other 3rd party.

A guy I know was testing out a A7R II and used some expensive Vello adapter on his Canon L lens and the adapter got stuck on the lens. Needless to say pants were almost shat day and that experience kept him away from the A7R. Granted it's anecdotal and only one experience, but that's enough to kinda scare me away too.

Those "decent adapters" that cost as much as a lens allow for full AF and aperture control and are built like tanks. Vello adapters aren't exactly cheap but aren't top of the line either. Either it had a defect or your friend didn't handle it properly.

AF not as good as DSLRs and a smaller first party native lens selection (the situation is not as bad as 6 months ago) are well known facts about the system. It's hard to avoid knowing that if you do some basic research. People who do the jump to Sony E-mount without understanding these probably just do it because of hype or gadget lust.

People who actually work with it are drawn to it either by its video features, great high megapixel and dynamic range sensor and possibility of adapting virtually any lens as long as the flange focal distance allows it.

That and I just think body wise the Sony's are the most boring looking camera's.

I was going to say something about functionality over form, but then I remembered the A7 series also have the EVF at the top of the camera for no practical reason...

 

[Astral/H3X]

I know a few people who jumped over to Sony from Canikon and a majority of them regret the switch since the decent adapters cost as much as a new lens or Sony's own lens offering is ridiculously expensive compared to a similar quality Canikon lens or some other 3rd party.

A guy I know was testing out a A7R II and used some expensive Vello adapter on his Canon L lens and the adapter got stuck on the lens. Needless to say pants were almost shat day and that experience kept him away from the A7R. Granted it's anecdotal and only one experience, but that's enough to kinda scare me away too.

I got a lens stuck on an adapter once... Because I didn't put it on right. Would've gotten stuck on a camera too. I've tried many adapters on many lenses' and never had any issues outside of me being a dipshit.

The adapters I have costed me $20 a pop, and are cheap and good enough that I just slapped them on both of the Canon lenses I use frequently. No, they don't cost anywhere near a new lens, *unless* you're referring to the more expensive (~$400) full AF Metabones adapters, which are really only intended for people who have existing EFS lenses, NOT those looking for vintage lenses.

I'll agree that it would be nice to have the third party lenses. Not sure why they don't tbh.

 

[jongkookie]

Looks like I was wrong, I shot him a text a few mins ago and it was actually some $400 Metabones adapter that he rented along with the A7R II.

He was using his 11-24mm L lens for some realtor that paid extra for 4K footage of the property. The footage turned out great apparently, but the adapter was being a pain in the ass. It was something dumb like the adapter losing the "connection" (whatever that means) and he had to remove the adapter from the body, then the lens off the adapter and remount everything.

I myself am still interested with the A7S II but stuff behind the scenes is making me rethink that option, without naming specifics... let's just say I don't think I'll be needing 4K video(nor 1080p video really) anytime soon so I'll probably just pick up a D610 when I see it on an irresistible sale. Otherwise, I'll be getting comfy with my D3200 until it breaks lol.

Spoiler

I hate freelancing.

 

[JadedWriter]

Looks like I was wrong, I shot him a text a few mins ago and it was actually some $400 Metabones adapter that he rented along with the A7R II.

He was using his 11-24mm L lens for some realtor that paid extra for 4K footage of the property. The footage turned out great apparently, but the adapter was being a pain in the ass. It was something dumb like the adapter losing the "connection" (whatever that means) and he had to remove the adapter from the body, then the lens off the adapter and remount everything.

I myself am still interested with the A7S II but stuff behind the scenes is making me rethink that option, without naming specifics... let's just say I don't think I'll be needing 4K video(nor 1080p video really) anytime soon so I'll probably just pick up a D610 when I see it on an irresistible sale. Otherwise, I'll be getting comfy with my D3200 until it breaks lol.

Spoiler

I hate freelancing.

I hate freelancing as well, but at times FREElancing nets you paid stuff. I got two paid gigs from two free gigs. I do hope one of the events is recurring though, just as long as they fix the air conditioning. Almost died in that room.

 

[StopMakingSense]

I disagree actually. I think I'd point somebody specifically to a Nikon DSLR if they want cheap or vintage lenses. The backwards compatibility is insane. Like I honestly have no need for any modern lenses right now because I've learned to deal with it.

Yep. Mainstays of my d800 are:

Nikon Series-E 75-150 3.5
(I cannot recommend picking up this lens enough, super light, super sharp, and insanely cheap ~50 bucks on CL. LOVE it. Just put some tape on the lens barrell if the push-pull zoom is too loose)
Nikon 35-70 2.8d
Nikon 180mm 2.8 AI-S
Nikon 50mm 1.4d

with the only super modern lens being my Tokina 16-28 f2.8

 

[JadedWriter]

Yep. Mainstays of my d800 are:

Nikon Series-E 75-150 3.5
(I cannot recommend picking up this lens enough, super light, super sharp, and insanely cheap ~50 bucks on CL. LOVE it. Just put some tape on the lens barrell if the push-pull zoom is too loose)
Nikon 35-70 2.8d
Nikon 180mm 2.8 AI-S
Nikon 50mm 1.4d

with the only super modern lens being my Tokina 16-28 f2.8

How good is that 35-70?

 

[StopMakingSense]

How good is that 35-70?

It's a great lens. It's a little heavy for the size. But its quite sharp. Often compares to my 50mm prime. The push-pull zoom is a little chunky, but not terrible. Basically it's a pro midrange zoom that can be picked up for like 250-300 bucks.

 

[Lace]

Been messing around with my a6300 the past couple days with the stock lenses. I was wondering if you had any suggestions for a great addition for portrait/video. I want to spend less than $400 which I hope should still result in some fantastic imagery. Thanks ahead of time for any advice!

 

[JadedWriter]

It's a great lens. It's a little heavy for the size. But its quite sharp. Often compares to my 50mm prime. The push-pull zoom is a little chunky, but not terrible. Basically it's a pro midrange zoom that can be picked up for like 250-300 bucks.

Interesting. I could use more Nikon glass. I want a 28-70 though, but they didn't make that many of them.

 

[jongkookie]

Yep. Mainstays of my d800 are:

Nikon Series-E 75-150 3.5
(I cannot recommend picking up this lens enough, super light, super sharp, and insanely cheap ~50 bucks on CL. LOVE it. Just put some tape on the lens barrell if the push-pull zoom is too loose)
Nikon 35-70 2.8d
Nikon 180mm 2.8 AI-S
Nikon 50mm 1.4d

with the only super modern lens being my Tokina 16-28 f2.8

Currently drooling over that 180mm and 50mm. Dunno what I'd do with the 180mm but I've heard great things about it, and of course that 50mm 1.4D is one of the Nikkor holy grail of lenses. I've seen them go for less than $200 on eBay and I'm sooo damn tempted to pick it up but I'm also perfectly happy with my Series E 50mm. The moment my Series E breaks though... that'll be the day I pick up the 1.4D lol.

The 75-150 Series E intrigues me actually. Is it really that legendary as a lot of people say it is? I kinda want to pick it up just coz of word of mouth but my Vivitar Series 1 70-210 2.8 already produces fantastic images, I feel like it'd be an overlap and I've got too much lenses as it is lol.

I hate freelancing as well, but at times FREElancing nets you paid stuff. I got two paid gigs from two free gigs. I do hope one of the events is recurring though, just as long as they fix the air conditioning. Almost died in that room.

The company I'm freelancing for is seriously slowing down it's "intake" if you will. I got back from Vegas 2 weeks ago ready to tackle a project but that client mysteriously vanished so I literally had the latter half of the week to myself just finishing up my existing projects with them as well as updating my resume as I feel that I'm gonna need it by the end of this week.

Bad thing is, I've been looking since July for more permanent work whether as a photog/videog/editor/motion graphics guy or whatever and I feel like I'm at a point where I'm overqualified for these entry level gigs but I'm also underqualified for the middle level stuff.

I do have a gig I can always turn to but it ain't photo or video related so I'm a bit hesitant in taking it up again... but that's enough of my freelancing rant lol.

 

[JadedWriter]

Currently drooling over that 180mm and 50mm. Dunno what I'd do with the 180mm but I've heard great things about it, and of course that 50mm 1.4D is one of the Nikkor holy grail of lenses. I've seen them go for less than $200 on eBay and I'm sooo damn tempted to pick it up but I'm also perfectly happy with my Series E 50mm. The moment my Series E breaks though... that'll be the day I pick up the 1.4D lol.

The 75-150 Series E intrigues me actually. Is it really that legendary as a lot of people say it is? I kinda want to pick it up just coz of word of mouth but my Vivitar Series 1 70-210 2.8 already produces fantastic images, I feel like it'd be an overlap and I've got too much lenses as it is lol.



The company I'm freelancing for is seriously slowing down it's "intake" if you will. I got back from Vegas 2 weeks ago ready to tackle a project but that client mysteriously vanished so I literally had the latter half of the week to myself just finishing up my existing projects with them as well as updating my resume as I feel that I'm gonna need it by the end of this week.

Bad thing is, I've been looking since July for more permanent work whether as a photog/videog/editor/motion graphics guy or whatever and I feel like I'm at a point where I'm overqualified for these entry level gigs but I'm also underqualified for the middle level stuff.

I do have a gig I can always turn to but it ain't photo or video related so I'm a bit hesitant in taking it up again... but that's enough of my freelancing rant lol.

I'd honestly do the steady work and freelance on the side. It's what I do. Luckily my job is videography and photography though.

 

[jongkookie]

I'd honestly do the steady work and freelance on the side. It's what I do. Luckily my job is videography and photography though.

That was originally what I was doing for the company, but stuff happened in July so I switched to a freelance position instead especially since I made about the same amount whether I was doing full time or freelance. I've tried leveraging my experience there to something else but it's a ridiculously competitive industry here in DFW, almost like the news business(which is where I'm from originally) but I just haven't had any luck so far. I've had a few interviews with some agencies but that competitiveness is ridiculous. I usually end up as a finalist but somebody in that pool has a leg up over me I guess so I never get any offers.

The steady work is a retail/sales gig but the pay is alright with benefits so it's not necessarily that bad, I just don't like how it isn't photo or video work lol.

 

[Astral/H3X]

Been messing around with my a6300 the past couple days with the stock lenses. I was wondering if you had any suggestions for a great addition for portrait/video. I want to spend less than $400 which I hope should still result in some fantastic imagery. Thanks ahead of time for any advice!

So for portraits, I'll make a vintage recommendation, an AF recommendation, and a modern manual recommendation. Vintage first cuz it's cheap: Canon FD 50mm 1.4. It's old, it's manual, and you'll need an adapter, but I picked it up for my A6000 when I used that, and this thing was constantly on there, and now that I have an a7II it lives on that. Was great for portraits for the a6000, nice images, nice colors (though a bit "warmer"), great feel for manual focus. Also dirt cheap.
For AF, look no further than the Sony E mount 50/1.8. There's a Sigma 60, but it's a smaller aperture, slower AF (Doesn't take advantage of the phase detect), and lacks OSS. Also really not much cheaper anyway. Shame, the focal length would've been nice.
For modern manual, this would be waaaay stretching your focal length, but the Samyang 85mm is quite nice for portraits. It's a smidge soft wide open, but for portraits that works fairly well, and the compression makes people look skinny which they like haha. Will also just work as a telephoto in a pinch.

For video, if you're serious you'll go with a manual, so I'll avoid even making an AF recommendation.
It's a bit hard without any specific thoughts on what focal length you want, but if I were to pick just one, it'd be between a 35mm and a 24mm. The 35mm will look a bit more natural, but the 24mm will give you more "room" when working with video. If you want a vintage lens, I'd go poking around some searches for either of these focal lengths on Pentax K mount, or Canon FD mount. I don't mess with this focal length enough to research any specifics, but I'm sure you'd end up finding a 35mm f2 that's really good at the least.
If you want a modern manual, Samyang makes specific cinema versions of their lenses, and they've got a nice 35mm 1.2. It's pretty much exactly $400, but it would also double as a "normal" lens, as long as you get past the geared focus and aperture rings. If you want it as a regular lens first, using the "photo" 35mm will get you regular rings, but you'll lose out on the declicked aperture, somewhat limiting your shot techniques.

 

[Saturnman]

Canon M5 mirrorless mostly revealed

http://www.canonrumors.com/forum/index.php?topic=30754.0

Though the camera needs to be announced and properly (p)reviewed, the problem with the M5 looks like the same as before: "too little too late". The lens selection is still weak, performance just ok. Excitement around the camera is basically Canon bothered to make a mirrorless camera with EVF built-in and with them lifting their little finger, this model is 4 years behind the competition instead of 6 years.

Brand name will sell this camera, like the previous M models have, but M mount still has a very uncertain future.

 

[Lace]

So for portraits, I'll make a vintage recommendation, an AF recommendation, and a modern manual recommendation. Vintage first cuz it's cheap: Canon FD 50mm 1.4. It's old, it's manual, and you'll need an adapter, but I picked it up for my A6000 when I used that, and this thing was constantly on there, and now that I have an a7II it lives on that. Was great for portraits for the a6000, nice images, nice colors (though a bit "warmer"), great feel for manual focus. Also dirt cheap.
For AF, look no further than the Sony E mount 50/1.8. There's a Sigma 60, but it's a smaller aperture, slower AF (Doesn't take advantage of the phase detect), and lacks OSS. Also really not much cheaper anyway. Shame, the focal length would've been nice.
For modern manual, this would be waaaay stretching your focal length, but the Samyang 85mm is quite nice for portraits. It's a smidge soft wide open, but for portraits that works fairly well, and the compression makes people look skinny which they like haha. Will also just work as a telephoto in a pinch.

For video, if you're serious you'll go with a manual, so I'll avoid even making an AF recommendation.
It's a bit hard without any specific thoughts on what focal length you want, but if I were to pick just one, it'd be between a 35mm and a 24mm. The 35mm will look a bit more natural, but the 24mm will give you more "room" when working with video. If you want a vintage lens, I'd go poking around some searches for either of these focal lengths on Pentax K mount, or Canon FD mount. I don't mess with this focal length enough to research any specifics, but I'm sure you'd end up finding a 35mm f2 that's really good at the least.
If you want a modern manual, Samyang makes specific cinema versions of their lenses, and they've got a nice 35mm 1.2. It's pretty much exactly $400, but it would also double as a "normal" lens, as long as you get past the geared focus and aperture rings. If you want it as a regular lens first, using the "photo" 35mm will get you regular rings, but you'll lose out on the declicked aperture, somewhat limiting your shot techniques.

Woah this is amazingly detailed and thought-out I really appreicate it! I'm going to have to spend some time and work my way through all those recommendations to see what I should prioritize. Seriously thanks!

 

[dhlt25]

anyone excited for the potential fuji medium format that's coming? I had a taste of MF with film and if this thing is even remotely affordable, I'd be very interested.

 

[RuGalz]

anyone excited for the potential fuji medium format that's coming? I had a taste of MF with film and if this thing is even remotely affordable, I'd be very interested.

Kind of. If I'm going to upgrade from APSC, FF isn't big enough jump unless I do more events so I'm patiently waiting for MF prices to come down.

 

[JadedWriter]

That was originally what I was doing for the company, but stuff happened in July so I switched to a freelance position instead especially since I made about the same amount whether I was doing full time or freelance. I've tried leveraging my experience there to something else but it's a ridiculously competitive industry here in DFW, almost like the news business(which is where I'm from originally) but I just haven't had any luck so far. I've had a few interviews with some agencies but that competitiveness is ridiculous. I usually end up as a finalist but somebody in that pool has a leg up over me I guess so I never get any offers.

The steady work is a retail/sales gig but the pay is alright with benefits so it's not necessarily that bad, I just don't like how it isn't photo or video work lol.

Check the PR departments at the colleges, you'd be surprised what they do over there.

 

[Ty4on]

anyone excited for the potential fuji medium format that's coming? I had a taste of MF with film and if this thing is even remotely affordable, I'd be very interested.

The last rumor I read said the price of the Hasselblad X1D for the Fuji and a lens (presumably the cheapest one) so while cheap for MF it's still 9 grand

Personally I feel like MF is cool, but very much plagued by the law of diminishing returns considering the huge price premium. MF lenses in production are so slow you still get a shallower DoF on full frame.

 

[captive]

The last rumor I read said the price of the Hasselblad X1D for the Fuji and a lens (presumably the cheapest one) so while cheap for MF it's still 9 grand

Personally I feel like MF is cool, but very much plagued by the law of diminishing returns considering the huge price premium. MF lenses in production are so slow you still get a shallower DoF on full frame.

This is false.

 

[RuGalz]

The last rumor I read said the price of the Hasselblad X1D for the Fuji and a lens (presumably the cheapest one) so while cheap for MF it's still 9 grand

I am hoping I'll be able to just adopt old Pentax 645 lenses. I'd only need a couple lenses for a MF body anyway. Hold off replacing my car then maybe I could justify it.