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NeoGAF Camera Equipment Thread | MK II

Rentahamster

Rodent Whores
The main things I am looking for is
- pocketability (doesn't have to fit in jeans pockets but in a jacket would be nice, as long as I don't have to have a separate bag/holster for it is small enough for me)
- fast lens/image quality so I can take RAWs with a decent amount of bokeh

Everything else is not as important (although unique features are welcome)

I have a Nikon D800 with the standard set of zooms and primes for everything serious, I am looking for this compact camera to take with me on small holidays and still be able to shoot a natural light portrait if I feel like it.

Do you need zoom? Is your budget under $600? If not, then you might want to consider the Fuji X100T. It's what I would get if I wanted a small compact. Mainly because of one feature: the leaf shutter. It's a feature that will complement your D800 because the D800 can't do what the X100T can do for high speed flash sybc.
 

Comalv

Banned
Do you need zoom? Is your budget under $600? If not, then you might want to consider the Fuji X100T. It's what I would get if I wanted a small compact. Mainly because of one feature: the leaf shutter. It's a feature that will complement your D800 because the D800 can't do what the X100T can do for high speed flash sybc.

Hey, my budget is under $1000 and I do not need a super long zoom but I need at least around 70mm on the tele end for decent portrait perspective

I will check out the X100T right away, thanks!
 

Rentahamster

Rodent Whores
Hey, my budget is under $1000 and I do not need a super long zoom but I need at least around 70mm on the tele end for decent portrait perspective

I will check out the X100T right away, thanks!

https://jonathanfleming.wordpress.com/2011/06/11/fuji-x100-super-high-speed-sync/

http://f16.click/gear/neewer-tt850-fuji-x100t.html

http://strobist.blogspot.co.uk/2013/05/leaf-shutter-nd-flash-fuji-x100s.html

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=35zY-UnrY6s

If you're budget is under 1K, though, then you'll have to either get a used one, or the 2013 model - X100S
 
I have a bad feeling about the E-M1 II price, I hope it's going to be <$1800.

But Olympus priced the PEN-F crazy high at release, so I'm sure they will do the same with the E-M1.
 
I have a bad feeling about the E-M1 II price, I hope it's going to be <$1800.

But Olympus priced the PEN-F crazy high at release, so I'm sure they will do the same with the E-M1.

Interview with Oly marketing managers:
Q - Do you know how much the E-M1 Mark II will cost?

Slightly more than the E-M1, depending on location, and global economics, for example, Brexit.
https://www.ephotozine.com/article/olympus-q-a--olympus-om-d-e-m1-sensor-size-trip-29987

So the E-M1 II won't be a bargain. Sigh. My finance minister won't be amused.
 
I have a bad feeling about the E-M1 II price, I hope it's going to be <$1800.

But Olympus priced the PEN-F crazy high at release, so I'm sure they will do the same with the E-M1.

I'm hoping it will be $1500 US but I'm imagining it will be $1700 or 1800.

I'm more bummed that the new flash is so expensive. It's weather sealed and the refresh rate looks fantastic, but $600 is a lot.
 

Saturnman

Banned
I have a bad feeling about the E-M1 II price, I hope it's going to be <$1800.

But Olympus priced the PEN-F crazy high at release, so I'm sure they will do the same with the E-M1.

The difference is the Pen F was priced on style mostly. Like a fancy-looking piece of kit.

Em1 will be more priced on specs. While the buffer, sensor, shutter and processing were given a significant boost, the rest of the camera is either as is or slightly improved and does not warrant a price increase. Things like EVF, LCD, IBIS, body construction were already good in the EM1 mark 1 or on the EM5 mark II so it's same old same old.

Maybe Olympus is feeling cocky, but there's a psychological barrier with body prices no m43 manufacturer has crossed so far. They are also in a very competitive environment which limits how high they can really charge.

That's my guess anyway.
 
Guys, help. My Windows 10 PC decided to run an update. Now my Capture One software won't see my a6000 when connected by USB. I can't import my photos. I tried downloading the most recent update for Capture One, but no luck.

When I plug in my camera it just says USB Mode Connecting. I've been googling a lot but I can't find any good info. Any ideas?
 

RayStorm

Member
Professional reviews are a bit more picky; but I don't think I've run into a single person with any variation of the Sony RX1000 that hasn't been very satisfied with their camera.

In that case I should introduce myself.

Coming from a Nikon D600 I got myself a RX100 IV a year ago. And quite frankly, I don't feel very satisfied.
Now I will grant you that I might have way too high hopes concerning the low light capabilities and dynamic range. But I feel it is also too big to comfortably carry in my pocket.

My idea was to basically have it with me whenever I leave the house (and wear a jacket). But quite frankly I find it too cumbersome to actually do that, because I don't feel it offers enough extra IQ over my phone to be worth the hassle of carrying it around.
Then again for fear of dust particles entering the optics/sensor I carry it in an extra bag that certainly adds to the cumbersomeness. Still it is a bit too big to carry around all the time.

Or to put it differently, to me it's way more valuable to have my D600 in my backpack than the RX 100 in my front pocket.

I also dislike the fact that some features I'd consider rather basic like interval timer shooting apparently are behind a paywall.
 
Guys, help. My Windows 10 PC decided to run an update. Now my Capture One software won't see my a6000 when connected by USB. I can't import my photos. I tried downloading the most recent update for Capture One, but no luck.

When I plug in my camera it just says USB Mode Connecting. I've been googling a lot but I can't find any good info. Any ideas?

I got it working. Apparently Auto USB no longer works and I have to set it to Mass Storage.
 
Interview with Oly marketing managers:

https://www.ephotozine.com/article/olympus-q-a--olympus-om-d-e-m1-sensor-size-trip-29987

So the E-M1 II won't be a bargain. Sigh. My finance minister won't be amused.

I'm hoping it will be $1500 US but I'm imagining it will be $1700 or 1800.

I'm more bummed that the new flash is so expensive. It's weather sealed and the refresh rate looks fantastic, but $600 is a lot.

The difference is the Pen F was priced on style mostly. Like a fancy-looking piece of kit.

Em1 will be more priced on specs. While the buffer, sensor, shutter and processing were given a significant boost, the rest of the camera is either as is or slightly improved and does not warrant a price increase. Things like EVF, LCD, IBIS, body construction were already good in the EM1 mark 1 or on the EM5 mark II so it's same old same old.

Maybe Olympus is feeling cocky, but there's a psychological barrier with body prices no m43 manufacturer has crossed so far. They are also in a very competitive environment which limits how high they can really charge.

That's my guess anyway.

Didn't see that interview, thanks. Sounds to me like it could go up to 2k, which I hope it does not. The flash is very expensive, yeah.
 
Those things are so damn expensive though. Only one even remotely less than 1K is the 85 Sigma 1.4 EX...the one before the newest Art announcement. I could probably look for D series but I heard the more modern lenses are sharper.

You just have to let autofocus go. Join us in the affordable bokeh, Jaded. You know you want to.
 
Any lens I get has to be useable for event work though. Stripping out AF kind of makes it unusable for an event.

People were photographing events on manual lenses with rolls of 36 shot film. Jus saying ahaha.

No, I definitely understand where you're coming from though. Those wide open apertures can be tough to focus at times.
 
People were photographing events on manual lenses with rolls of 36 shot film. Jus saying ahaha.

No, I definitely understand where you're coming from though. Those wide open apertures can be tough to focus at times.
Yeah, wide open at times is the most inconsistent thing imaginable, you almost don't get a sharp image unless you're standing on top of somebody. I have nothing but the utmost respect for those old school photojournos capturing life with nothing but film and manual focus and flash that exploded.
 

Futureman

Member
I've been using this old as hell Nikon SB-28 off and on for years w/ my Canon cameras but barely ever use it seriously because it acts so flaky. Half the time the flash doesn't fire.

I just want something new and reliable. For now I just want to connect to my camera with a sync cable. The 430 EX III should do the trick? I realize there are cheaper off brand options but I really don't want to deal with that. I just want SOLID and reliable flash.

EDIT: WAIT... the 430 EX III has a radio built in for wireless flash control? I'm buying one now if I don't need to worry about using some wireless transmitter system (previously had RadioPoppers and was considering something newer).

Yeah either that or Tamron's 85 is the 85 I'm going to get. I'm trying to move away from Sigma soon, their AF system for like every lens is pretty spotty in my opinion, I have no idea why.

I just got the Tamron 85mm. I used it for some high school senior portaits yesterday and love it.
 

RuGalz

Member
Yeah either that or Tamron's 85 is the 85 I'm going to get. I'm trying to move away from Sigma soon, their AF system for like every lens is pretty spotty in my opinion, I have no idea why.

All the 3rd parties have to reverse engineer the mount and do their own things to talk to the camera. Often they have to pretend that they are one of the official lenses. Anything can go wrong along the chain. It's one of the reasons they started to sell the USB dock to calibrate the lens yourself to mitigate the issues.
 

Futureman

Member
Well that's good to hear. I rarely hear people talk about Tamron, it's usually just Sigma for some odd reason.

if the new Sigma 85mm ART was the same price as the Tamron, I would have went with Sigma. I absolutely love my Sigma 50mm (non ART) lens.

I've probably only taken around 400 photos with the Tamron but no complaints so far.
 
All the 3rd parties have to reverse engineer the mount and do their own things to talk to the camera. Often they have to pretend that they are one of the official lenses. Anything can go wrong along the chain. It's one of the reasons they started to sell the USB dock to calibrate the lens yourself to mitigate the issues.
Yeah that makes a lot of sense. That's probably why I do want more Nikon glass than I currently do, cause damn Sigma AF is inconsistent. It's not even just me saying that cause I've heard it in several reviews and I've experienced it myself. I even tried focus tuning my lens and it even threw it off even more. More so on my D600 than on my D7100. Might also be because those two cameras have two very different AF systems.
 

Rentahamster

Rodent Whores
Yeah that makes a lot of sense. That's probably why I do want more Nikon glass than I currently do, cause damn Sigma AF is inconsistent. It's not even just me saying that cause I've heard it in several reviews and I've experienced it myself. I even tried focus tuning my lens and it even threw it off even more. More so on my D600 than on my D7100. Might also be because those two cameras have two very different AF systems.

Agreed about Sigmas. I've only ever bought one, tried some others out, and probably won't buy another one. At the most I'll rent, but that's it.

If I were in your position, I'd probably just get the Nikon 85mm f1.8. I've used it and know it works very well. I've never used the Tamron before. The vibration control feature seems intriguing, but I think it would only be useful to me in limited situations if I were doing event work. It also adds more elements into the lens which sorta defeats the purpose (or one of them anyway) of having a prime, and it's more expensive. Dunno about sharpness, but the Nikon 85 1.8 is quite sharp.
 
Agreed about Sigmas. I've only ever bought one, tried some others out, and probably won't buy another one. At the most I'll rent, but that's it.

If I were in your position, I'd probably just get the Nikon 85mm f1.8. I've used it and know it works very well. I've never used the Tamron before. The vibration control feature seems intriguing, but I think it would only be useful to me in limited situations if I were doing event work. It also adds more elements into the lens which sorta defeats the purpose (or one of them anyway) of having a prime, and it's more expensive. Dunno about sharpness, but the Nikon 85 1.8 is quite sharp.
Yeah that 85 is like a portrait must have from what I've heard. I also want to do more portraits with primes as well. For some odd reason using the primes on a full frame really made me appreciate the damn things more.
 

Rentahamster

Rodent Whores
Yeah that 85 is like a portrait must have from what I've heard. I also want to do more portraits with primes as well. For some odd reason using the primes on a full frame really made me appreciate the damn things more.

On full frame, the shallower depth of field is more apparent, so perhaps that's what you are liking.

For portraits, the 85 is good. You can get nice shallow DoF if that's what you want. What you can't get, though, is the separation effect that you can get from a lens that is 200mm+.

Different effects for different circumstances for different tastes. I feel like those two cases work very well for most portrait scenarios.
 
On full frame, the shallower depth of field is more apparent, so perhaps that's what you are liking.

For portraits, the 85 is good. You can get nice shallow DoF if that's what you want. What you can't get, though, is the separation effect that you can get from a lens that is 200mm+.

Different effects for different circumstances for different tastes. I feel like those two cases work very well for most portrait scenarios.
Yeah I'm loving the DOF and I have a 70-200 2.8 so I have no problem getting the separation effect when I need to. I'm trying to figure out what wide angle to telephoto zoom I should get that's affordable though. I'm thinking about getting the Nikon 24-120 F4 at some point, but if I find a Nikon 24-70 that's not astronomical and it's at the right point financially I could get that. Though Tamron 2.8 28-75's aren't that astronomical either.
 

Rentahamster

Rodent Whores
Yeah I'm loving the DOF and I have a 70-200 2.8 so I have no problem getting the separation effect when I need to. I'm trying to figure out what wide angle to telephoto zoom I should get that's affordable though. I'm thinking about getting the Nikon 24-120 F4 at some point, but if I find a Nikon 24-70 that's not astronomical and it's at the right point financially I could get that. Though Tamron 2.8 28-75's aren't that astronomical either.

A used Nikon 24-70 at a decent price would be good. Even the old ones are good. Dunno about third party 24-70s. Never used any before.

For events, what I found to work well was having one body with an ultra wide zoom (around 15-30) and the 70-200 on the other body. Sometimes I would have the 24-70 on the first body, but eventually I just stick with the ultrawide for the following reason:

Nowadays, everyone and their mother is taking pics at events, so it's not like there's a lack of coverage. What you bring as the event photographer is the ability to take pics that no one else can take. The likelihood of anyone else rocking an ultrawide lens on a full frame body is probably low, so any shots you take with that will look very different from anyone else's. If they're good shots, then even better.

Likewise with the 70-200. I doubt anyone else in the room will be using a 200mm lens.

Of course, you use the other focal ranges too, but if you see opportunities to take unique shots that no one else can capture, then take it.
 
A used Nikon 24-70 at a decent price would be good. Even the old ones are good. Dunno about third party 24-70s. Never used any before.

For events, what I found to work well was having one body with an ultra wide zoom (around 15-30) and the 70-200 on the other body. Sometimes I would have the 24-70 on the first body, but eventually I just stick with the ultrawide for the following reason:

Nowadays, everyone and their mother is taking pics at events, so it's not like there's a lack of coverage. What you bring as the event photographer is the ability to take pics that no one else can take. The likelihood of anyone else rocking an ultrawide lens on a full frame body is probably low, so any shots you take with that will look very different from anyone else's. If they're good shots, then even better.

Likewise with the 70-200. I doubt anyone else in the room will be using a 200mm lens.

Of course, you use the other focal ranges too, but if you see opportunities to take unique shots that no one else can capture, then take it.
Yeah I'll be having an 18-35 on one body and a 70-200 on another. I do want that Nikon 24-70. Probably when I pay off this camera I'll just finance one through PayPal credit or something. I'll probably trade in my 7100 for a D750 as well. I have too many bad memories linked to that camera. Kind of didn't dawn on me how much I still enjoy shooting till I got another body with no fucked up memories or associations attached to it.
 
Laowa 24mm f/14 Replay 2x macro lens
Laowa-24mm-f14-Replay-2x-macro-lens-by-Venus-Optics.jpg

 
I saw that thing on Nikon Rumors and went, "what the fuck is that thing?" Still have no idea what that is, looks like a Star Wars blaster.

It's a macro lens that is less terrifying to bugs, because instead of you getting your whole body super close to a subject, the bug only sees like a stick.

I kinda want one.
 

Skel1ingt0n

I can't *believe* these lazy developers keep making file sizes so damn large. Btw, how does technology work?
Didn't see that interview, thanks. Sounds to me like it could go up to 2k, which I hope it does not. The flash is very expensive, yeah.

$2K on M43 would be pure insansity.

Like mentioned before, the Pen F was sold as a "lust" product. It's a sexy piece of kit; but the EM1Mk2 will have to stand on its on with performance. I can't imagine many m43 shooters willing to drop two grand on an enhance EM1mk1.

Then again, it *is* a good looking camera with pretty much perfect specs (for the format).
 
The best kept secret in photography right now - that more people are admittedly catching onto - is that Fuji is producing some of the absolute best glass on the market right now; and almost all their lenses are a good bit under a $1000 second-hand.

Next lens I get is the XF16mm F1.4.
 
Bought the Sony 55-210mm for my A6000.

Seems to be a decent lens when you're outside and it's sunny. Decently compact and I don't feel like a complete creeper walking around with it.

Also helps that I got it for $180 on eBay brand new, but hey.

Curious about other people's experiences if they have it.

I have a Sigma 30mm f2.8 but I might sell it or just buy the new 30mm f1.4 which is supposed to be sharper than the Zeiss lens according to DxO
 

Tablo

Member
Next lens I get is the XF16mm F1.4.
Same same same, I just couldn't afford it the last time it was on a crazy rebate for 700$.
Next time it drops that low I'll bit for sure, I think I've made my peace and would take it over the 14mm..I think... pros and cons...
 
Bought the Sony 55-210mm for my A6000.

Seems to be a decent lens when you're outside and it's sunny. Decently compact and I don't feel like a complete creeper walking around with it.

Also helps that I got it for $180 on eBay brand new, but hey.

Curious about other people's experiences if they have it.

I have a Sigma 30mm f2.8 but I might sell it or just buy the new 30mm f1.4 which is supposed to be sharper than the Zeiss lens according to DxO
A lot of those kit zoom lenses are outdoor sunny day lenses.
 
Eh, I shoot macro at F11 anyway. I'll find a way to light those buggers up.

I'll let others get their hands on it first, and find out what their lighting solutions are from there.
Jeez, I really don't even touch the upper end of the apertures unless I'm shooting into the sun or trying to do a sunburst landscape.
 

Skel1ingt0n

I can't *believe* these lazy developers keep making file sizes so damn large. Btw, how does technology work?
Next lens I get is the XF16mm F1.4.

Same same same, I just couldn't afford it the last time it was on a crazy rebate for 700$.
Next time it drops that low I'll bit for sure, I think I've made my peace and would take it over the 14mm..I think... pros and cons...

I went back and forth on a wide angle selection for so long. Call me crazy, but I eventually said screw it and decided I wanted a wide angle lens to be, well, wide first and foremost. So I ultimately selected the Zeiss 12mm f2.8. Sure, it's a bit slower and the build quality is definitely second-rate versus Fuji's. No WR, either. BUT(!), man, it makes for a beautiful landscape lens. Definitely love having it in my bag. It has a *very* specific use, but for that use, it works great

My current kit is:

Zeiss 12mm f2.8
Fuji 23mm f1.4
Fuji 35mm f2 "pancake"
Fuji 90mm f2

Only thing I really feel I'm missing at this point is the 56 1.2. Man, I'd love to have that in my bag, but truth is, I don't do any studio portraiture. And outside, I can get 90% of the shots I want with what I have. And past that, with the crop sensor, I don't really need any more reach than the 90 affords me; though I'd upgrade it almost immediately for a refreshed model with OIS.
 
Jeez, I really don't even touch the upper end of the apertures unless I'm shooting into the sun or trying to do a sunburst landscape.

Macro with f2: one platelet of the eyeball of the bug is in focus
Macro with F11: The head of the bug is in focus, and still nothing else

EDIT: This was taken at F11 or so. You can see from the spiderweb that there really still isn't much in focus.
Patient Predator by Hunter Mauro, on Flickr
 

Saturnman

Banned
Yeah that 85 is like a portrait must have from what I've heard. I also want to do more portraits with primes as well. For some odd reason using the primes on a full frame really made me appreciate the damn things more.

Here's another vote for the Nikon 85mm f1.8G.

+ Great IQ
+ Not too big for what it is
+ good price

- all plastic
- AF can be slow

I must say, and I may be in the minority here, but I find the more telephoto you get, the less critical DoF control becomes. Even with cameras with small(er) sensor, you get easy subject separation with a lowly kit telephoto zoom. For that reason, the 85mm f1.8G is my least used FF lens and I don't own or lust after anything longer in FF. I still like the IQ, of course, but to get extra reach, it's easier and lighter to just go for something sub-FF. I think I shoot 50% of the time with just M Zuiko 75mm f1.8 (2x crop factor of course).
 
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