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[Chumley]

Should we assume that the A7 III will be announced around October like the previous models? I'm trying to decide, as I'm about to pull the trigger on the A6500 for 4K indie filmmaking, but I want that Full Frame sensor so bad for photography and trying to figure out if I should wait on the Mk. III. This is driving me nuts. Do they usually announce their cameras at trade shows and such?

Wait for the Panasonic GH5. Absolute god tier specs - 4k at 60fps and they cleaned up low light performance to match a7rII, weather sealed, $2k. Comes out end of March. The full frame difference for filmmaking is negligible at this point, the only advantage is maybe slightly better bokeh.

If you plan on taking photos though neither Sony or Panasonic can compete with Canon or Nikon at all in that department at the pro level.

 

[Ty4on]

Guys please give me your best recommendations on what I should get, I have no clue and would get anything.

something cheap and good or whatever, thanks

I have lot's of things to say and not enough time right now, but camera wise: There are a ton of options, but pretty much every camera will have info and opinions if you google its name. I'd find something cheap that's manual focus with a 50mm f1.7/f1.8. They should be available for less than $50. I'm kinda thinking Minolta, Olympus or Pentax since they're usually a little cheaper and still nice cameras tho all of them will have compromises.

Are you going to process the film yourself?
How familiar are you with photography and manual exposure?

Not too ridiculous, lol.

http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_fro...2.A0.H0.XCanon+A1.TRS0&_nkw=Canon+A1&_sacat=0

$100+ is a bit expensive for an old film body. You can get an Olympus OM-2 for that money which uses modern batteries, has option for aperture priority with exposure compensation and has a much smaller body.

 

[ShadowKingpin]

Wait for the Panasonic GH5. Absolute god tier specs - 4k at 60fps and they cleaned up low light performance to match a7rII, weather sealed, $2k. Comes out end of March. The full frame difference for filmmaking is negligible at this point, the only advantage is maybe slightly better bokeh.

If you plan on taking photos though neither Sony or Panasonic can compete with Canon or Nikon at all in that department at the pro level.

I do a lot of photography, but film is more of my niche'. Whatever provides the better quality, I am down. I was looking at the GH4 video 4K quality and wasn't too impressed, so hopefully the GH5 is better. Does it do XAVS and S-log? Those two are vitally important.

 

[-griffy-]

I do a lot of photography, but film is more of my niche'. Whatever provides the better quality, I am down. I was looking at the GH4 video 4K quality and wasn't too impressed, so hopefully the GH5 is better. Does it do XAVS and S-log? Those two are vitally important.

S-log is specically Sony's log profile. The GH5 will have V-Log L, which is Panasonic's profile. It is unfortunately a paid $100 upgrade, but it is available, and the GH5 will actually have built in LUT support so you can preview LUTs over your log footage right in camera. The GH5 will also do 10bit 4:2:2 internally rather than needing to go to an external recorder like the GH4.

The GH5 4k is better than the GH4 (which also had great 4K considering it's a 3 year old camera at this point). It's a newer sensor with a faster read out (meaning less rolling shutter), and it doesn't have a low-pass filter which means it'll retain more detail (and 60p vs 30p on the GH4). It's also reading out from the full 20mp sensor and scaling to 4K which will also increase detail compared to GH4, which took a 1:1 pixel read out from the center of the sensor, also causing the 4K on the GH4 to actually be cropped.

 

[ShadowKingpin]

S-log is specically Sony's log profile. The GH5 will have V-Log L, which is Panasonic's profile. It is unfortunately a paid $100 upgrade, but it is available, and the GH5 will actually have built in LUT support so you can preview LUTs over your log footage right in camera. The GH5 will also do 10bit 4:2:2 internally rather than needing to go to an external recorder like the GH4.

The GH5 4k is better than the GH4 (which also had great 4K considering it's a 3 year old camera at this point). It's a newer sensor with a faster read out (meaning less rolling shutter), and it doesn't have a low-pass filter which means it'll retain more detail (and 60p vs 30p on the GH4). It's also reading out from the full 20mp sensor and scaling to 4K which will also increase detail compared to GH4, which took a 1:1 pixel read out from the center of the sensor, also causing the 4K on the GH4 to actually be cropped.

Well, you just answered all of my concerns. Thank you so much!!!! What good lenses would you suggest?

 

[-griffy-]

Well, you just answered all of my concerns. Thank you so much!!!! What good lenses would you suggest?

This is where it gets pricey. I think the Panasonic 12-35 f2.8 is one of the best all around run-and-gun lenses but it's expensive. It's actually dropped in price at the moment, probably because they announced a version 2 along with the GH5.

The 42.5 f1.7 is an incredible portrait/interview lens. The 25mm f1.7 is your standard 50mm equivalent. Then the 100-300 is a good telephoto.

I also have the cheaper 45-150mm telephoto (there's a more expensive similar lens which is f2.8 through the entire zoom) and the 14-140 which I grabbed for vacation/tourist stuff, so I don't need to constantly swap between wide and telephotos while walking around touristing.

Then I also have a Speedbooster so I can use a couple of my Canon lenses I still have, namely the Sigma 18-35 f1.8 for night/star photography, which ends up being f1.2 with the Speedbooster. This'll probably get a lot more use with the GH5, since this lens doesn't have stabilization but the GH5 has in body stabilization.

 

[Got]

I have lot's of things to say and not enough time right now, but camera wise: There are a ton of options, but pretty much every camera will have info and opinions if you google its name. I'd find something cheap that's manual focus with a 50mm f1.7/f1.8. They should be available for less than $50. I'm kinda thinking Minolta, Olympus or Pentax since they're usually a little cheaper and still nice cameras tho all of them will have compromises.

Are you going to process the film yourself?
How familiar are you with photography and manual exposure?

$100+ is a bit expensive for an old film body. You can get an Olympus OM-2 for that money which uses modern batteries, has option for aperture priority with exposure compensation and has a much smaller body.

You must've missed those ones listed at less than $100.

 

[Chumley]

This is where it gets pricey. I think the Panasonic 12-35 f2.8 is one of the best all around run-and-gun lenses but it's expensive. It's actually dropped in price at the moment, probably because they announced a version 2 along with the GH5.

The 42.5 f1.7 is an incredible portrait/interview lens. The 25mm f1.7 is your standard 50mm equivalent. Then the 100-300 is a good telephoto.

I also have the cheaper 45-150mm telephoto (there's a more expensive similar lens which is f2.8 through the entire zoom) and the 14-140 which I grabbed for vacation/tourist stuff, so I don't need to constantly swap between wide and telephotos while walking around touristing.

Then I also have a Speedbooster so I can use a couple of my Canon lenses I still have, namely the Sigma 18-35 f1.8 for night/star photography, which ends up being f1.2 with the Speedbooster. This'll probably get a lot more use with the GH5, since this lens doesn't have stabilization but the GH5 has in body stabilization.

Also, here's a video sample shot with a beta version of the camera: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=00AFU9IVQf0

And a 60fps doc sample: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BoYbqSxPWrA

The actual quality of the image is drastically better than the GH4. I thought the GH4 looked like trash in every test I've ever seen of it, just very video-y and not cinematic at all, but these early videos of the GH5 look nicer than the A7sII and near-Canon level to my eyes.

 

[Mr. Hyde]

My used 6d will be here tomorrow. That shipped much faster than I expected. Is there software to check that the shutter count is what it says? I believe I found one a long time ago.

 

[Deleted member 17706]

Wait for the Panasonic GH5. Absolute god tier specs - 4k at 60fps and they cleaned up low light performance to match a7rII, weather sealed, $2k. Comes out end of March. The full frame difference for filmmaking is negligible at this point, the only advantage is maybe slightly better bokeh.

If you plan on taking photos though neither Sony or Panasonic can compete with Canon or Nikon at all in that department at the pro level.

How do you figure that Sony's full frames (or hell, even their higher end APS-C cameras) cannot compete at the pro level when it comes to still photography? There are plenty of pros that use them.

 

[josecitoxnyo]

Hi guys. I'm looking for a nice tripod, not looking for anything special but good price/quality one to use with a D3300.

I'm travelling a lot next month so i figure it's time to buy one to start doing some panoramas, any recomendations?

 

[vector824]

Hi guys. I'm looking for a nice tripod, not looking for anything special but good price/quality one to use with a D3300.

I'm travelling a lot next month so i figure it's time to buy one to start doing some panoramas, any recomendations?

You can shoot panoramas without a tripod, using Lightroom's "photomerge" feature it's quite easy. Now if you're doing long exposures that's different, and you'll need one of that. I own Manfrotto tripods and they're excellent.

 

[josecitoxnyo]

You can shoot panoramas without a tripod, using Lightroom's "photomerge" feature it's quite easy. Now if you're doing long exposures that's different, and you'll need one of that. I own Manfrotto tripods and they're excellent.

Yes, i know that, the idea is to start learning that so i need one, it's a basic accessory tbh.

I also need to pick up the good ol 35mm 1.8 lens, i don't have any fast lens and i need bokeh in my life.

 

[theepicoftyler]

Hi guys. I'm looking for a nice tripod, not looking for anything special but good price/quality one to use with a D3300.

I'm travelling a lot next month so i figure it's time to buy one to start doing some panoramas, any recomendations?

I bought a Vanguard VEO 204AB at Fry's last year on a whim and have absolutely loved it. I've tore through a bunch of cheap tripods in my day and got tired of destroying them, so I bought this one and it's been fantastic. It's around $120, and it's light, strong, and compact.

I often fold it up and put it in one of my water bottle holder pockets on the side of my hiking pack. Easy to take anywhere.

 

[JadedWriter]

My used 6d will be here tomorrow. That shipped much faster than I expected. Is there software to check that the shutter count is what it says? I believe I found one a long time ago.

Enjoy the cleaner iso and the added dynamic range. Did it come with the 24-105 F4 kit lens?

 

[ShadowKingpin]

Amazon doesn't charge right away for pre-ordering, correct? Going to nab the GH5, but won't have the money until March.

 

[Radec]

Nikon on their 100th anniversary.

I wonder if they have a new product to go along with it.

 

[Chumley]

Amazon doesn't charge right away for pre-ordering, correct? Going to nab the GH5, but won't have the money until March.

They bill on shipment, you're good to go.

Also worth mentioning with prime they let you return any camera equipment certified by them within 30 days barring any serious wear and tear.

 

[smoothj]

I have a Canon rebel T3. I know not the best. I'm looking for the best lense under $200 mostly for video and macro shots.

Any suggestions?

 

[ShadowKingpin]

They bill on shipment, you're good to go.

Also worth mentioning with prime they let you return any camera equipment certified by them within 30 days barring any serious wear and tear.

Perfect! Thank you so much!!!! The camera is now pre-ordered.

 

[z3phon]

Anyone with a Olympus omd camera?
I've got a Olympus EM1 M2 and while recording i've noticed my auto focus is really slow. It's set to C-AF. Is there some way to make the camera focus faster while recording vidoes?(i'm using a 45mm prime)

 

[RuGalz]

Hi guys. I'm looking for a nice tripod, not looking for anything special but good price/quality one to use with a D3300.

I'm travelling a lot next month so i figure it's time to buy one to start doing some panoramas, any recomendations?

If you need to travel light, I love my Sirui travel tripod. It won't be the most sturdy thing but I need something that fits inside my bag. I just hang my bag under it for more stability.

 

[Mr. Hyde]

Enjoy the cleaner iso and the added dynamic range. Did it come with the 24-105 F4 kit lens?

No. I got it for 950 with Free shipping. My wife said it came today. It looks in perfect condition and it's supposed to have under 15k for the shutter. I will check all that when I get home. I am going to grab another lens soon. I have my 50 1.4 and 85 for the moment since I mainly do portraiture. I am glad to have my 50mm not crop anymore. I like to have scenery in some of my portraits.

 

[JadedWriter]

No. I got it for 950 with Free shipping. My wife said it came today. It looks in perfect condition and it's supposed to have under 15k for the shutter. I will check all that when I get home. I am going to grab another lens soon. I have my 50 1.4 and 85 for the moment since I mainly do portraiture. I am glad to have my 50mm not crop anymore. I like to have scenery in some of my portraits.

The 85 is pretty much what the cropped 50 looked like believe it or not. I enjoy having non cropped lenses as well. Sometimes you really can't back up more. Also changes the versatility of a lens in my opinion. I think my 70-200 is a lot more versatile now on full frame than it was on crop.

 

[jongkookie]

So it looks like the 50mm 1.4 I got was on it's death bed(hence the price)... the focus ring feels super smooth when it works but it's clearly not rubbing against the helicoid or whatever since it won't focus past a certain point.

Basically, going from right to left, the focus is smooth then once you hit the middle point of the focus ring, it'll freeze up and if you try to focus fast then it loses the groove and doesn't adjust focus, but when you do it super slow, it tends to hang on and kinda focuses.

NBD right I'll just get it fixed... well here's the problem. I called one shop that's about 30 miles away from me, they said they can fix it for $100. That's not too bad of a price, except that the average price for a 50mm 1.4 on eBay is $100.

Hmmmmmmmm.

That said, I still have two other shops to call and ask for an estimate. I don't mind spending $100 or more to fix it, but obviously it kinda doesn't make sense to try and salvage it when it'll cost me the same amount to buy another one in good condition.

I would attempt it to fix it myself but I don't think I have all the tools to do it properly so I'm hesitant to do so, but if I do decide to buy another one, I'll definitely attempt it.

 

[JadedWriter]

So it looks like the 50mm 1.4 I got was on it's death bed(hence the price)... the focus ring feels super smooth when it works but it's clearly not rubbing against the helicoid or whatever since it won't focus past a certain point.

Basically, going from right to left, the focus is smooth then once you hit the middle point of the focus ring, it'll freeze up and if you try to focus fast then it loses the groove and doesn't adjust focus, but when you do it super slow, it tends to hang on and kinda focuses.

NBD right I'll just get it fixed... well here's the problem. I called one shop that's about 30 miles away from me, they said they can fix it for $100. That's not too bad of a price, except that the average price for a 50mm 1.4 on eBay is $100.

Hmmmmmmmm.

That said, I still have two other shops to call and ask for an estimate. I don't mind spending $100 or more to fix it, but obviously it kinda doesn't make sense to try and salvage it when it'll cost me the same amount to buy another one in good condition.

I would attempt it to fix it myself but I don't think I have all the tools to do it properly so I'm hesitant to do so, but if I do decide to buy another one, I'll definitely attempt it.

And this is why I don't buy archaic vintage lenses. I was going to buy a 20 year old lens at some point but you just never know how close to death they are.

 

[jongkookie]

And this is why I don't buy archaic vintage lenses. I was going to buy a 20 year old lens at some point but you just never know how close to death they are.

Eh I don't mind it too much, I paid about half of what a decent 50 1.4 would cost so it's really no bother. I've still got my 50mm 1.8 and that thing is as good as the 1.4 tbh. I mean sure the bokeh doesn't melt away like it does on a 1.4, but you can still achieve the same look with a fast telephoto lens instead.

But more importantly the lens is still usable actually, just that you can't really do infinite focus. Well, you can but you have to guide the focus ring along the helicoids just so it won't get off track.

If any shop is willing to do work on it for less than a hundred bucks, I'll probably get it fixed immediately. Otherwise, I'll hold off on it and get it fixed in the future. Besides, I'm also contemplating the idea of getting a Pentax 50 1.4 instead... a friend of mine got one recently and I actually think it might be better than the Nikon 50 1.4.

 

[Fox1304]

Waiting for my Fuji 27mm pancake and Samyang 12mm f/2 to arrive. I'm starting to get bored studying my new body without any lens, they'll have to hurry

 

[RuGalz]

Waiting for my Fuji 27mm pancake and Samyang 12mm f/2 to arrive. I'm starting to get bored studying my new body without any lens, they'll have to hurry

Those are my two native lenses for Fuji. I want to replace the 27mm with 23mm f2 at some point but the 23mm is too new to go on sale. I'm probably going to sell the 27mm regardless though; it's a fine lens just not the focal length I enjoy.

 

[Fox1304]

Those are my two native lenses for Fuji. I want to replace the 27mm with 23mm f2 at some point but the 23mm is too new to go on sale. I'm probably going to sell the 27mm regardless though; it's a fine lens just not the focal length I enjoy.

I was actually debating internaly between the 35mm f/2 and the 12mm f/2. Went with the 12 in the end since I found that 27 and 35mm would be too similar.

 

[RuGalz]

I was actually debating internaly between the 35mm f/2 and the 12mm f/2. Went with the 12 in the end since I found that 27 and 35mm would be too similar.

Yea they would be. The difference between each mm is bigger on the wider end.

 

[Armadilo]

Found this on ebay ? http://www.ebay.com/itm/142235542387?pb=14&&autorefresh=true

Olympus OM-1 35mm SLR Film Camera with 50 mm lens Kit

Hello, please see photos for condition. I feel camera is in pretty good shape. All shutter speeds are right on. I fo not think the light meter works. Thanks, Mike.

So it seems the light meter might not be working, is it ok ? or is that important?

 

[jongkookie]

So it seems the light meter might not be working, is it ok ? or is that important?

That's the most important thing!

Without a light meter, the camera won't tell you what the right settings are for the exposure. It's essentially useless without it.

 

[JadedWriter]

Found this on ebay ? http://www.ebay.com/itm/142235542387?pb=14&&autorefresh=true

Olympus OM-1 35mm SLR Film Camera with 50 mm lens Kit



So it seems the light meter might not be working, is it ok ? or is that important?

If a camera is giving the same light readings at 7am as it's giving you at midnight then the camera is fucking useless.

 

[Astral/H3X]

*Could* just be a bad battery. I know some people have overlooked that.

 

[Thraktor]

That's the most important thing!

Without a light meter, the camera won't tell you what the right settings are for the exposure. It's essentially useless without it.

It's not useless, you can operate the camera in fully manual mode, but that's basically photography's "hard mode" (particularly when shooting on film), so I definitely wouldn't recommend it to someone learning photography.

Edit:

*Could* just be a bad battery. I know some people have overlooked that.

This is actually a good point. I've bought old film cameras before where the light meter is supposedly been off and in each case a new battery has fixed the problem (except one with a selenium light meter which you can't do much about).

 

[opticalmace]

Should I steer preferentially towards full frame/crop/m43 if I like wide angles?

On my current (old, first) camera I noticed the vast majority of my shots are at 18mm on aps-c (the widest I have). It would be nice to go wider.

I know Canon has an inexpensive 10-18mm crop lens, but I'm not sure how much to base my decision on that.

I was thinking about the Panasonic G85 previously. Any tips? Thanks.

 

[Astral/H3X]

It's not useless, you can operate the camera in fully manual mode, but that's basically photography's "hard mode" (particularly when shooting on film), so I definitely wouldn't recommend it to someone learning photography.

Edit:



This is actually a good point. I've bought old film cameras before where the light meter is supposedly been off and in each case a new battery has fixed the problem (except one with a selenium light meter which you can't do much about).

The problem about not having a light meter isn't that the camera can't do automatic stuff for you -- it's that you have no way of knowing how much to expose it by without having your own personal separate one, and even then it's so hard and cumbersome as to be useless.

Should I steer preferentially towards full frame/crop/m43 if I like wide angles?

On my current (old, first) camera I noticed the vast majority of my shots are at 18mm on aps-c (the widest I have). It would be nice to go wider.

I know Canon has an inexpensive 10-18mm crop lens, but I'm not sure how much to base my decision on that.

I was thinking about the Panasonic G85 previously. Any tips? Thanks.

If you want wide, the larger the sensor the inherently wider the FOV.
That being said, they can make even shorter focal lengths for the smaller sensors, so really, take a look at the prices of lenses.
For my full frame A7II, I use the Samyang 14mm, and it's pretty stupidly wide, and fairly affordable. But I know for example for APSC they make a 12mm, and I *think* they might make a 10mm for MFT. But that's just one lens manufacturer! Who knows what the others have.

 

[jongkookie]

It's not useless, you can operate the camera in fully manual mode, but that's basically photography's "hard mode" (particularly when shooting on film), so I definitely wouldn't recommend it to someone learning photography.

Oh I know but he's a beginner and we can't really recommend a beginner to use a camera without a light meter.

I mean not all of us know the "Sunny 16" rule by heart lol.

 

[Thraktor]

Should I steer preferentially towards full frame/crop/m43 if I like wide angles?

On my current (old, first) camera I noticed the vast majority of my shots are at 18mm on aps-c (the widest I have). It would be nice to go wider.

I know Canon has an inexpensive 10-18mm crop lens, but I'm not sure how much to base my decision on that.

I was thinking about the Panasonic G85 previously. Any tips? Thanks.

Looking at the available lenses is actually a pretty good way of deciding. If you go full frame you get access to some really nice wide angle lenses (particularly with Canon), but they can get seriously pricey, so you'd have to be comfortable with spending that kind of money to get the most of it. APS-C is probably the best choice in terms of value, and there should be plenty of options on each mount, but if you're deciding that you want to focus on ultra-wide you should probably find the lenses you want first and then consider cameras to go with them.

The problem about not having a light meter isn't that the camera can't do automatic stuff for you -- it's that you have no way of knowing how much to expose it by without having your own personal separate one, and even then it's so hard and cumbersome as to be useless.

Oh I know but he's a beginner and we can't really recommend a beginner to use a camera without a light meter.

I mean not all of us know the "Sunny 16" rule by heart lol.

I have a few old (and in this case I mean early-twentieth-century old) film cameras, and have gotten pretty used to using light meter apps on my phone, which tend to do the job very well, but yeah, it's definitely not something I'd recommend to a beginner.

 

[Armadilo]

welp , next time i guess. Unless someone outbids me. Hope it was just bad grammar on the sellers part. shit

 

[Got]

Shoulda gone for the A-1 lol. Though, I'm sure whatever you end up with, broken or not, will do just fine for a beginner class.

 

[Ty4on]

welp , next time i guess. Unless someone outbids me. Hope it was just bad grammar on the sellers part. shit

If you're motivated you don't need a light meter. I shot my first roll on a camera with a shoddy meter (not sure it even worked when I used it).

You can use your phone as a external meter. There are two ways, find an app which works OK, but I haven't found one I was confident in. Probably best for iPhone where devs know what to aim for (various Android phones can have differing sensors).
What I did was take a sample picture with my phone where I like the exposure and look at the exif inside photo details. You may need a third party photo app.

F2.6
1/315
ISO 100

This is from a random picture I took, my phone is kinda worst case scenario because it uses random ass settings
What I do is approximate. F2.8 is slightly darker than 2.6, 1/250 is slightly brighter than 1/315 so I assume it is that. We don't need super accurate numbers with print film or black and white.
If you're shooting ISO 100 film you can use f2.8+1/250, f4+1/125... If you're using ISO 200 film you can use f2.8+1/500, f4+1/250 etc...
Think of ISO 125 as pretty much ISO 100 etc. If you're uncertain err on the side of overexposure.

This takes some time, but if you're out shooting you'll get an idea like "this weather is f8+1/250" and mostly use that, maybe increase by a stop or two when shooting stuff in the shadows.

Edit: The OM 1 used a 1.35V mercury battery which isn't sold any longer. You can replace it with a zinc air hearing aid battery which I think needs an adapter (I'll look it up). The down side is those only last a few weeks while traditional cells last a few years. They're not that expensive tho.

Edit2: OK, the OM1 used a 625 cell, but you can get smaller 675 zinc air replacement cells that seem to work without any modifications, but you can buy adapters that go around the 675 cell. I'd find a cheap pack to test it with, maybe ask seller if he was certain it didn't work should you win.

Edit3: After a quick Google I found this. This is exactly what happened with the camera I used and would be easy to fix.

This was a wise move because it turned out the wire soldered to the battery holder was about to break (a common OM-1 affliction). After a few more rolls of film I would have had a camera with a dead meter.

Here's a YT video going through the issue and fixing it. The diode installation is for using 1.5V batteries and not necessary. I would take the bottom panel off to check if that's what's wrong. It looks very scary with all the gears, but to my knowledge it's very hard to break anything by removing that panel.
https://youtu.be/dFq9etVH2og

 

[JadedWriter]

The feel of trying to get your coworker to buy an XT-1 over an A6000.

 

[Deleted member 17706]

The feel of trying to get your coworker to buy an XT-1 over an A6000.

Offer to lend out your lenses?

Otherwise, why are you trying to convince him/her to buy one over the other? Seems like the XT-1 is way, way more expensive? Looks like you're creeping into A6300/A6500 territory if buying new.

 

[RuGalz]

The feel of trying to get your coworker to buy an XT-1 over an A6000.

lol most of ppl just look at paper specs so good luck

 

[JadedWriter]

Offer to lend out your lenses?

Otherwise, why are you trying to convince him/her to buy one over the other? Seems like the XT-1 is way, way more expensive? Looks like you're creeping into A6300/A6500 territory if buying new.

He ain't getting my stuff. I honestly just like Fuji build quality and lens selection more, not to mention overall customer service based on what I've heard. I actually like the A7's, just not touching one till somebody actually makes a good Nikon to Sony adapter...not touching either till someone makes a good Nikon adapter. He actually probably should go for a used A6300.

lol most of ppl just look at paper specs so good luck

The XT-1 never struck me as the worse camera though.

 

[RuGalz]

The XT-1 never struck me as the worse camera though.

It's competing with newer Sony at that price so if he/she is going for a6000 it's probably because of the discounted prices is what I'm guessing. Unless the person has strong preference of build quality, certain work flow, certain ergonomics, etc, it's a hard sale esp with Sony being in the headline more than anyone else most of the time. Sensor perf it's similar so one has to really want other things to go with a Fuji I think.

 

[JadedWriter]

It's competing with newer Sony at that price so if they are going for a6000 it's probably because of the discounted prices. Unless the person has strong preference of build quality, certain work flow, certain ergonomics, etc, it's a hard sale esp with Sony being in the headline more than anyone else most of the time.

I'm talking to a guy that isn't really even sure of what it is that he really wants and didn't know why a prime lens couldn't zoom.

 

[RuGalz]

I'm talking to a guy that isn't really even sure of what it is that he really wants and didn't know why a prime lens couldn't zoom.

Probably doesn't even really know Fuji then? I mean generally price would be a larger factor for beginner. XT-1 is more enthusiast level and a lot of things don't really matter to a beginner.