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[Crispy Gamer]

Oh boy, now I'm confused.

I should never put HDR tone mapping to off, not even briefly for the calibration on Xbox? You say I should keep it at gradation preferred and then just set the patterns on Xbox as it says how to do? So all the way to the left for min luminance, and for the two max luminance patterns I should set it until the pattern is gone? Which is at 1000 here.

I just got an a95k coming from my s90c it's a lot better but I calibrated hgig with gradation preferred on and then I turn tone mapping off after calibration, it might be frowned upon but it looks way better to me because gradation preferred is too dim.

 

[King Dazzar]

I just got an a95k coming from my s90c it's a lot better but I calibrated hgig with gradation preferred on and then I turn tone mapping off after calibration, it might be frowned upon but it looks way better to me because gradation preferred is too dim.

Gradation Preferred should simply correctly track the EOTF. Which mean sthings like colour accuracy etc should be closer to calibrated accuracy. I dont have your TV, but others report that turning off tone mapping is limiting your TV to only go up to 500nit peak.... However, on my Z9J, turning off tone mapping can make HDR artificially more punchier, but you can tell its not as accurate, if that makes sense. But getting APL boosted on emissive was something I always chased too.

But hey, what ever works better for you, is up to you.

 

[Stafford]

So I believe the 500nit, is a bug with your TV when disabling tone mapping, posted about further up by another owner. So what I would advise, is leaving your tone mapping at Gradation Preferred. And then just setting the values of MaxTML and MaxFFTML to the known 10% window peak luminance of your set. I believe your TV hits up to circa 950nit on 10% so I'd set yours to 1000nit.

Hope that helps.

I'll go try this again. I believe I had it like this at first. But I've reset it all now. But I appreciate the help.

I just got an a95k coming from my s90c it's a lot better but I calibrated hgig with gradation preferred on and then I turn tone mapping off after calibration, it might be frowned upon but it looks way better to me because gradation preferred is too dim.

See, that's exactly what I did too when I played Starfield a few days after launch and it made the outdoor locations especially look a whole lot better, it had more...pop I guess and it wasn't so dim. I find gradation preferred a bit too dim as well.

The issue is, this does over-brighten stuff too, such as night time. I also tried brightness preferred but the difference is very small. So you calibrate the HDR settings the correct way, with max luminance at 1000? And then you turn gradation preferred off after calibration is done? I'm gonna test it out.

 

[CobraAB]

I have a 42” LG C2 that I have hooked up to my gaming PC. I love it.

 

[Stafford]

So I believe the 500nit, is a bug with your TV when disabling tone mapping, posted about further up by another owner. So what I would advise, is leaving your tone mapping at Gradation Preferred. And then just setting the values of MaxTML and MaxFFTML to the known 10% window peak luminance of your set. I believe your TV hits up to circa 950nit on 10% so I'd set yours to 1000nit.

Hope that helps.

I have gradation preferred enabled.

I have to press d-pad right 41 times (starting from all the way to the left) to get the pattern to disappear. MaxTML is at 2700 and MaxFFTML is at 500.

Or should I just set it to 1000 even though the pattern IS fully shown?

 

[Crispy Gamer]

See, that's exactly what I did too when I played Starfield a few days after launch and it made the outdoor locations especially look a whole lot better, it had more...pop I guess and it wasn't so dim. I find gradation preferred a bit too dim as well.

The issue is, this does over-brighten stuff too, such as night time. I also tried brightness preferred but the difference is very small. So you calibrate the HDR settings the correct way, with max luminance at 1000? And then you turn gradation preferred off after calibration is done? I'm gonna test it out.

Yup that's exactly how I do it and it's much brighter but doesn't look bad actually it still looks awesome just not as accurate. Now it has the same punch as my s90c but with more clarity because of reality creation @ 30-35 everything is more crisp man I love this TV thank you for raving about it over the past few months

 

[Stafford]

Yup that's exactly how I do it and it's much brighter but doesn't look bad actually it still looks awesome just not as accurate. Now it has the same punch as my s90c but with more clarity because of reality creation @ 30-35 everything is more crisp man I love this TV thank you for raving about it over the past few months

So on Xbox in the HDR calibration setup you set the last two max luminance to 1000 even though the pattern is still fully visible? I have to tap d-pad 41 times for it too dissappear, it's crazy. But MaxTML is at 2700.

 

[King Dazzar]

I have gradation preferred enabled.

I have to press d-pad right 41 times (starting from all the way to the left) to get the pattern to disappear. MaxTML is at 2700 and MaxFFTML is at 500.

Or should I just set it to 1000 even though the pattern IS fully shown?

So, originally you were turning off tone mapping so you could set the Xbox 10% and 100% windows to align correctly to the panels native peak luminance i.e until the image disappeared. And then once set, you would turn your tone mapping back to Gradation Preferred. However, your TV apparently has a bug which changes your peak luminance to a peak 500nit when you set tone mapping to off. So your Xbox calibration slides wont work properly.

When you enable Gradation Preferred, it tracks the EOTF not only up to the panels native capability (950nit), but it will also then apply tone mapping to anything that goes beyond the panels native capability. So if you provide it luminance beyond the panels native capability i.e probably up to 4000nit (or less as you mentioned 2700nit), the panel will just keep tone mapping the excess luminance. And the calibration windows will keep being visible. Which is why you need to ignore the images and calibration slides and just set it to as close to 950nit as possible.

TL;DR Set both luminance calibration screens to 1000nit. And tone mapping to Gradation Preferred.

 

[Stafford]

So, originally you were turning off tone mapping so you could set the Xbox 10% and 100% windows to align correctly to the panels native peak luminance i.e until the image disappeared. And then once set, you would turn your tone mapping back to Gradation Preferred. However, your TV apparently has a bug which changes your peak luminance to a peak 500nit when you set tone mapping to off. So your Xbox calibration slides wont work properly.

When you enable Gradation Preferred, it tracks the EOTF not only up to the panels native capability (950nit), but it will also then apply tone mapping to anything that goes beyond the panels native capability. So if you provide it luminance beyond the panels native capability i.e probably up to 4000nit (or less as you mentioned 2700nit), the panel will just keep tone mapping the excess luminance. And the calibration windows will keep being visible. Which is why you need to ignore the images and calibration slides and just set it to as close to 950nit as possible.

TL;DR Set both luminance calibration screens to 1000nit. And tone mapping to Gradation Preferred.

Good stuff. God it can be a bit confusing and annoying at times, haha. I don't recall I had this with the LG C9 but boy oh boy did I have it with the Samsung S95B though.

 

[Crispy Gamer]

So on Xbox in the HDR calibration setup you set the last two max luminance to 1000 even though the pattern is still fully visible? I have to tap d-pad 41 times for it too dissappear, it's crazy. But MaxTML is at 2700.

Yup on both systems PS5 and Series X the pattern will still be visible just set it at 1000 nits

 

[King Dazzar]

Good stuff. God it can be a bit confusing and annoying at times, haha. I don't recall I had this with the LG C9 but boy oh boy did I have it with the Samsung S95B though.

Glad to help. Just a couple of thoughts on boosting the luminance further. I'd be inclined to always set the calibration screens to the 1000nit guidelines as it'll maintain accuracy as a starting point. But then I'd play around with Advanced Contrast Enhancer, Brightness Preferred tone mapping and even increasing contrast a little above the 90 if low nit content. But I'd do it on a case by case basis.

 

[keefged4]

Just chiming in here to say I've had my LG C1 for two years now, and its still the most impressive display I've ever seen in action. It STILL amazes me to this day. Thousands of hours of use with no burn in at all. Very heavy usage mainly used for PC gaming. Possibly the best display purchase I've ever made.

 

[King Dazzar]

Just chiming in here to say I've had my LG C1 for two years now, and its still the most impressive display I've ever seen in action. It STILL amazes me to this day. Thousands of hours of use with no burn in at all. Very heavy usage mainly used for PC gaming. Possibly the best display purchase I've ever made.

I bought the 83" version when they first released. Loved the picture and it was step up form my 2019 OLED. But unfortunately it had awful uniformity, so had to go back. The 83" sizes were frequently having more severe issues unfortunately.

 

[Stafford]

Glad to help. Just a couple of thoughts on boosting the luminance further. I'd be inclined to always set the calibration screens to the 1000nit guidelines as it'll maintain accuracy as a starting point. But then I'd play around with Advanced Contrast Enhancer, Brightness Preferred tone mapping and even increasing contrast a little above the 90 if low nit content. But I'd do it on a case by case basis.

That's good to know. I will try those before I resort to putting DTM to off.

 

[Crispy Gamer]

Just chiming in here to say I've had my LG C1 for two years now, and its still the most impressive display I've ever seen in action. It STILL amazes me to this day. Thousands of hours of use with no burn in at all. Very heavy usage mainly used for PC gaming. Possibly the best display purchase I've ever made.

Yeah I still have a 55" in my home and from time to time I'll check it out and I'm still amazed of how good it looks LG really nailed it with that model I just wish they made qd-oled but in retrospect I'd rather have a 77"C1 than my 65" a95k it's size over everything else when it comes to oled

 

[Jesb]

Is there small versions of the C2/C3? I need to setup a new tv in another room but I don’t need a big tv as the wall is only a few feet from the bed. Should I be looking at something else?

 

[Pippelipeikko]

I'm using the C3 42"

 

[Tarnished]

I've had my LG C1 for about 6 months and I'm very happy with it, it's the first 4K and HDR TV I've ever owned, upgrading from a 10+ year old Sony Bravia.

 

[Stafford]

Two questions for the owners of a QD-OLED (Sony A95K preferably)

Do you use reality creation for both FHD and UHD games or keep it off for UHD? Can it not make aliasing worse as well?

And for games in SDR such as Remnant 2 (such a shame) do you have peak luminance at low, medium or even high?

King Dazzar Crispy Gamer

 

[Auto_aim1]

Guys I have some black dots on top of my OLED screen. I have the CX model. There is also a black patch. I tried the pixel thingy but I guess they are not going to go.

This TV is around 3 years old and 4700 hours run.

 

[King Dazzar]

Two questions for the owners of a QD-OLED (Sony A95K preferably)

Do you use reality creation for both FHD and UHD games or keep it off for UHD? Can it not make aliasing worse as well?

And for games in SDR such as Remnant 2 (such a shame) do you have peak luminance at low, medium or even high?

King Dazzar Crispy Gamer

On Red Dead Redemption remaster on PS5 which has no native HDR. I tried both SDR and forced HDR with artificial enhancements. In the end for my Z9J I got it looking best in forced HDR, with ACE at Medium, Black Adjust at Low and Live Colour Low. But YMMV from game to game and that's for my Z9J, which will be somewhat different from your A95K.

Reality creation has been touched on before iirc. I recommended going no higher than 25. But bear in mind, mine is being applied to an 8k panel, even if its upscaled 4k. Its likely pretty similar though in terms of applying the sharpening. I tend to use between 10 and 20 for gaming.

 

[Crispy Gamer]

Two questions for the owners of a QD-OLED (Sony A95K preferably)

Do you use reality creation for both FHD and UHD games or keep it off for UHD? Can it not make aliasing worse as well?

And for games in SDR such as Remnant 2 (such a shame) do you have peak luminance at low, medium or even high?

Yeah 20-25 is a good range if anything nothing over 35 even for UHD or it'll introduce unnecessary artifacts in some content and i always keep peak luminance at high if you feel as if you're getting lifted blacks try toggling the gamma to -1 or -2. On a side note I'm in love with bravia core but I noticed sony state you can only get the highest bitrate through Pure Stream over wifi because of the ethernet limitation of the a95k so I ordered a USB 3.0 gig ethernet adapter and ran an ethernet cable because my wifi wasn't pulling enough juice to get the highest bitrate and my goodness it's night and day I watched ghostbusters and it was damn near bluray quality

 

[Stafford]

Yeah 20-25 is a good range if anything nothing over 35 even for UHD or it'll introduce unnecessary artifacts in some content and i always keep peak luminance at high if you feel as if you're getting lifted blacks try toggling the gamma to -1 or -2. On a side note I'm in love with bravia core but I noticed sony state you can only get the highest bitrate through Pure Stream over wifi because of the ethernet limitation of the a95k so I ordered a USB 3.0 gig ethernet adapter and ran an ethernet cable because my wifi wasn't pulling enough juice to get the highest bitrate and my goodness it's night and day I watched ghostbusters and it was damn near bluray quality

That sounds great. You can't get that by using an ethernet cable from TV to your router? You need that adapter? Sounds like I haven't seen the max quality of Core yet at all then.

Good tip about gamma, I haven't touched that setting once since I got the TV in the summer of this year, but I might do that now if I put peak luminance at max for both HDR and SDR. I often, especially with Xbox notice that there seem to be raised black levels on this TV. I didn't have that with the S95B or C9. I read on Reddit a similar complaint, but not with a PS5. I might put black level setting back to default and try lowering gamma just a little.

For example the game Remnant 2 which sadly is SDR only. But I had to put the TV black level setting to from 50 to like 46 to get proper dark areas. Forza Horizon 5 is a real good example too. I loved how crisp the image was when I first got the TV but I hated how way too bright a nighttime race was, that is not correct. So I put black level to 46 and black adjust to medium and it was a lot better. Raised black levels really takes me out of it, especially for nighttime or a horror game.

 

[Crispy Gamer]

That sounds great. You can't get that by using an ethernet cable from TV to your router? You need that adapter? Sounds like I haven't seen the max quality of Core yet at all then.

Good tip about gamma, I haven't touched that setting once since I got the TV in the summer of this year, but I might do that now if I put peak luminance at max for both HDR and SDR. I often, especially with Xbox notice that there seem to be raised black levels on this TV. I didn't have that with the S95B or C9. I read on Reddit a similar complaint, but not with a PS5. I might put black level setting back to default and try lowering gamma just a little.

For example the game Remnant 2 which sadly is SDR only. But I had to put the TV black level setting to from 50 to like 46 to get proper dark areas. Forza Horizon 5 is a real good example too. I loved how crisp the image was when I first got the TV but I hated how way too bright a nighttime race was, that is not correct. So I put black level to 46 and black adjust to medium and it was a lot better. Raised black levels really takes me out of it, especially for nighttime or a horror game.

Yup I had the same issue with raised blacks until I adjusted the gamma now it pops a lot more in dark scenes...this is the converter I purchased https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BBD7NFU/?tag=neogaf0e-20 .....I initially had my ethernet cable running directly to the TV thinking I was getting the best image through Pure Stream until I read the fine print where they recommended wifi so i swapped to wifi and noticed it was much crisper apparently the ethernet connection is capped so you can't get the full bitrate unless you buy the usb 3.0 gigabit converter you also have to connect it to the bottom USB not the one on the side.

 

[Stafford]

Yup I had the same issue with raised blacks until I adjusted the gamma now it pops a lot more in dark scenes...this is the converter I purchased https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BBD7NFU/?tag=neogaf0e-20 .....I initially had my ethernet cable running directly to the TV thinking I was getting the best image through Pure Stream until I read the fine print where they recommended wifi so i swapped to wifi and noticed it was much crisper apparently the ethernet connection is capped so you can't get the full bitrate unless you buy the usb 3.0 gigabit converter you also have to connect it to the bottom USB not the one on the side.

I need to get me one of those adapters then, hopefully Amazon Netherlands has it too, but it shouldn't be too hard. Core doesn't have tons of content I want to see, but some stuff definitely and I'd really like to see it the best it can look.

So just to be sure I got this correct, I plug the adapter into the bottom USB on the TV, and then a ethernet cable from adapter to router? Does it matter what CAT the cable is? It's currently a CAT 5E.

 

[Crispy Gamer]

I need to get me one of those adapters then, hopefully Amazon Netherlands has it too, but it shouldn't be too hard. Core doesn't have tons of content I want to see, but some stuff definitely and I'd really like to see it the best it can look.

So just to be sure I got this correct, I plug the adapter into the bottom USB on the TV, and then a ethernet cable from adapter to router? Does it matter what CAT the cable is? It's currently a CAT 5E.

Yup that's all you have to do I agree core needs more content it's a nice additive to my other streaming options especially with the free imax movies changing monthly. I have a gigabit CAT 6 but i don't see why yours wouldn't work you should be fine CAT 5E supports the higher speeds

 

[Stafford]

Yup that's all you have to do I agree core needs more content it's a nice additive to my other streaming options especially with the free imax movies changing monthly. I have a gigabit CAT 6 but i don't see why yours wouldn't work you should be fine CAT 5E supports the higher speeds

One more thing, just curious. What color temp do you go with for gaming? When I just got the A95K I was solely playing RDR2 and the default color temp of the TV was perfect for the super realistic tone RDR2 is going for. However with many other games (including the GTA VI trailer) I find the default temp is way too warm. Doesn't look right.

 

[Crispy Gamer]

One more thing, just curious. What color temp do you go with for gaming? When I just got the A95K I was solely playing RDR2 and the default color temp of the TV was perfect for the super realistic tone RDR2 is going for. However with many other games (including the GTA VI trailer) I find the default temp is way too warm. Doesn't look right.

I usually stick with warm because expert is too warm for my tastes but you might have to toggle from game to game I just don't like my games looking cool and neutral was a bit too cool for my liking

 

[King Dazzar]

Expert 1 should be the most accurate. If it looks too warm, either your eyes may need to adjust over time i.e roll with it for a week or two. Or you could do with having it calibrated. If set correctly, I've always found calibrated colour to be the better overall option across all content. If you go cooler it can make the image more punchy initially. But it wont last.

 

[Stafford]

I usually stick with warm because expert is too warm for my tastes but you might have to toggle from game to game I just don't like my games looking cool and neutral was a bit too cool for my liking

Oh, and the black level setting. Do you touch that at all or keep it at default 50? I went with 46 for several games because it just didn't look right in night times.

Expert 1 should be the most accurate. If it looks too warm, either your eyes may need to adjust over time i.e roll with it for a week or two. Or you could do with having it calibrated. If set correctly, I've always found calibrated colour to be the better overall option across all content. If you go cooler it can make the image more punchy initially. But it wont last.

I really tried it for several months at expert 1 and it was great for RDR2. But then when I play something like Psychonauts 2, or even a trailer like GTA 6 I just find it a tad too warm. The first time I watched that trailer it was on my phone and then on my TV and I really noticed the color temp difference. Vastly preferring how it looks on my phone.

But expert 1 really is how the creator intended it, right? I might end up sticking with expert 1 for realistic looking games and go warm for less realistic games that need that extra bit of colour.

 

[Crispy Gamer]

Oh, and the black level setting. Do you touch that at all or keep it at default 50? I went with 46 for several games because it just didn't look right in night times.

I keep black level at the default but I would say do what works better for your eyes I even put Live Color on medium which is frowned upon but I love the richer colors

 

[Stafford]

I keep black level at the default but I would say do what works better for your eyes I even put Live Color on medium which is frowned upon but I love the richer colors

Here here. Live colour all the way. I remember seeing FH5 for the first time with live color off and color temp at expect 1 and I did not like how drab it looked. Live color enhances the colors in a way that it still looks great, and not overly colorful either. Like is the case with other brands. I love it.

 

[Shake Your Rump]

IHMO there are better uses of your time. My a95k runs default game mode and that’s it. Everything looks better than my calibrated C9. Life is too short to worry about stuff like “black level 49 or 50”.

 

[Stafford]

IHMO there are better uses of your time. My a95k runs default game mode and that’s it. Everything looks better than my calibrated C9. Life is too short to worry about stuff like “black level 49 or 50”.

I need my nights in FH5, RDR2, GTA V dark, man. I am not kidding you, it really takes me out of the experience and immersion if I get these nasty raised black levels. Always have. For a horror game it really ruins it, that's for sure. When I finally had night time I. RDR2 looking proper dark, I fucking loved it. A different experience tbh.

Don't worry, I don't spend hours on this kind of stuff.

 

[King Dazzar]

But expert 1 really is how the creator intended it, right? I might end up sticking with expert 1 for realistic looking games and go warm for less realistic games that need that extra bit of colour.

Expert 1 is the most accurate colour profile out of the box. But it may well still benefit from being calibrated. You like what you like though. I just find when you deviate from accuracy, you end up with one scene looking better and the next worse.

 

[Stafford]

Aight. It was time to finally start with Doom Eternal. Last time I played was last year, very briefly when I just got the Sony A95K. I remember how the HDR felt disappointing to me.

Like Crispy Gamer said, It's undoubtedly frowned upon, but with tone mapping off on the TV the game shines so much more. One it's just too dim with tone mapping on gradation or brightness preferred and two, the HDR just doesn't stand out at all. These might be the wrong settings, but I'm digging it a lot.

 

[Bojji]

Aight. It was time to finally start with Doom Eternal. Last time I played was last year, very briefly when I just got the Sony A95K. I remember how the HDR felt disappointing to me.

Like Crispy Gamer said, It's undoubtedly frowned upon, but with tone mapping off on the TV the game shines so much more. One it's just too dim with tone mapping on gradation or brightness preferred and two, the HDR just doesn't stand out at all. These might be the wrong settings, but I'm digging it a lot.

Doom eternal has great HDR, one of the best examples in games.

 

[Shake Your Rump]

with tone mapping off

The a95k is, quite literally, less bright with tone mapping off. This has been measured.

 

[Stafford]

The a95k is, quite literally, less bright with tone mapping off. This has been measured.

But I tested it today with Jusant and Doom Eternal. When I choose gradation or brightness preferred I see it's significantly more dim.

Things like fire and such don't stand out nearly as nicely as well. Odd.

 

[Polelock]

Anyone else with an S90C think that the colors are too oversaturated? I love the TV but its like everything you watch has bloom on high lol. My 42" C3 looks leaps and bounds better.

 

[Lagspike_exe]

Anyone else with an S90C think that the colors are too oversaturated? I love the TV but its like everything you watch has bloom on high lol. My 42" C3 looks leaps and bounds better.

Calibrate it?

 

[Stafford]

Love the TV, hate the OS, of the Sony A95K.

A few days ago for no reason it completely froze while watching a show. Had to unplug it. But now there's more annoying shit. After I start the TV up it takes almost a minute for the main menu to show all the apps, I see all the boxes but they are empty. Usually this would take a second or so to have them all show up.

So for some reason it's loading very slowly and I can't do anything either until it's all loaded up. What could this be? I already am in apps only mode too.

 

[King Dazzar]

Love the TV, hate the OS, of the Sony A95K.

A few days ago for no reason it completely froze while watching a show. Had to unplug it. But now there's more annoying shit. After I start the TV up it takes almost a minute for the main menu to show all the apps, I see all the boxes but they are empty. Usually this would take a second or so to have them all show up.

So for some reason it's loading very slowly and I can't do anything either until it's all loaded up. What could this be? I already am in apps only mode too.

All TV's I have ever used (which is a lot) have always had issues when being used as a Smart TV. So have a longer term think about off loading the TV's functionality as much as possible to a streaming box. Sony's OS has pros and cons as do all of them. At least you can have an add free experience if you want by just accessing things via the bottom quick bar. Something not to be taken for granted.

As for your issues. Usually these things can be sorted by doing a full proper restart of the TV. You could also unplug it form the wall for 30 seconds too. Try resetting your network Tv settings and restarting your hub. As a very last resort you could do a factory reset, but that really shouldn't be required. And before doing that I'd be inclined to ensure that none of your apps are running - one of them could be causing the issue.

 

[Stafford]

All TV's I have ever used (which is a lot) have always had issues when being used as a Smart TV. So have a longer term think about off loading the TV's functionality as much as possible to a streaming box. Sony's OS has pros and cons as do all of them. At least you can have an add free experience if you want by just accessing things via the bottom quick bar. Something not to be taken for granted.

As for your issues. Usually these things can be sorted by doing a full proper restart of the TV. You could also unplug it form the wall for 30 seconds too. Try resetting your network Tv settings and restarting your hub. As a very last resort you could do a factory reset, but that really shouldn't be required. And before doing that I'd be inclined to ensure that none of your apps are running - one of them could be causing the issue.

What did you mean with the ad free experience via the button quick bar? You mean the bar that appears when I press the gear(settings) icon on the remote?

As for the second bit, unfortunately I did all that. The only way to fully have a clean boot is by unplugging, right? Or maybe I'm forgetting a setting now.

 

[King Dazzar]

What did you mean with the ad free experience via the button quick bar? You mean the bar that appears when I press the gear(settings) icon on the remote?

As for the second bit, unfortunately I did all that. The only way to fully have a clean boot is by unplugging, right? Or maybe I'm forgetting a setting now.

On my Samsung for example I had a small advert even when selecting inputs and apps. Where as with my Sony I can avoid all of that by customising the quick select input & apps bar.

So you checked all apps were stopped, one by one by either force stopping them or disabling them? Switched your network from ethernet to wireless or vice versa. And restarted your hub? And turned off the TV at the wall. Left it for 30 seconds, switched it back on and then did an additional restart by holding down the power button on the remote? Sorry, cant help you beyond that. Good luck.

 

[Lagspike_exe]

Love the TV, hate the OS, of the Sony A95K.

A few days ago for no reason it completely froze while watching a show. Had to unplug it. But now there's more annoying shit. After I start the TV up it takes almost a minute for the main menu to show all the apps, I see all the boxes but they are empty. Usually this would take a second or so to have them all show up.

So for some reason it's loading very slowly and I can't do anything either until it's all loaded up. What could this be? I already am in apps only mode too.

I have S95C. I love almost all of it - with OS being the exception. I switched to Apple TV to minimize the use of Tizen and it has been great.

 

[manfestival]

Bought the AOC Agon Pro 27 inch and finally went into the world of OLED and it is fantastic. Really glad I made the change into this. Still really unsure how I feel about HDR. Kinda makes me think about Ray Tracing and how it is unclear in my brain if it is on or even better. However, the rest of the experience is absolutely fantastic. I was using a VA and IPS before this panel. The IPS definitely leaves something to be desired despite looking pretty good before coming across this. The backbleed makes me suffer now too lol. Smoothness is something else too

 

[Stafford]

On my Samsung for example I had a small advert even when selecting inputs and apps. Where as with my Sony I can avoid all of that by customising the quick select input & apps bar.

So you checked all apps were stopped, one by one by either force stopping them or disabling them? Switched your network from ethernet to wireless or vice versa. And restarted your hub? And turned off the TV at the wall. Left it for 30 seconds, switched it back on and then did an additional restart by holding down the power button on the remote? Sorry, cant help you beyond that. Good luck.

Oh wow, that's bad, ads in menus.

I might have found the problem. I had a external HDD connected to the TV via USB for a month almost now. I decided to take it out and I've tested it again. The main apps menu showed up immediately after I did that, this morning again and just now as well. It's odd though that for all those other weeks it was fine. But it almost seems as if this isn't a coincidence.

Thanks for replying each time I need help, I always appreciate this.

I have S95C. I love almost all of it - with OS being the exception. I switched to Apple TV to minimize the use of Tizen and it has been great.

I might start looking into it. I will never go back to a Chromecast because I had annoying issues with that and basically it's the same as using my TV's OS anyway, but Apple TV I might give a shot. If it works nicely with my soundbar, if HDR works fine for the apps that still support it, it might be what I'm looking for. For now I'll see how things go. Because a full on freeze had been a long time ago here, but a full on cold boot by plugging the cable out had been a long time ago too.

 

[King Dazzar]

Oh wow, that's bad, ads in menus.

I might have found the problem. I had a external HDD connected to the TV via USB for a month almost now. I decided to take it out and I've tested it again. The main apps menu showed up immediately after I did that, this morning again and just now as well. It's odd though that for all those other weeks it was fine. But it almost seems as if this isn't a coincidence.

Thanks for replying each time I need help, I always appreciate this.

Ah yes, forgot about the external HDD one. I've seen it mentioned a few times over the past few years as an issue. It can be particularly problematic when using it for app installs for some. Glad you got it sorted.

 

[Stafford]

Ah yes, forgot about the external HDD one. I've seen it mentioned a few times over the past few years as an issue. It can be particularly problematic when using it for app installs for some. Glad you got it sorted.

Yeah I noticed when I plugged the external hdd(lacie little disk, quite old, lol) the TV took ages to load everything in from the HDD, while other tv's I've had in the past loaded it instantly. It seems the Sony isn't too fond of it.