TheHeretic
Banned
bee said:the difference between 1920x1080 and 1680x1050 (in terms of fps) in most games is minimal
Nonsense.
bee said:the difference between 1920x1080 and 1680x1050 (in terms of fps) in most games is minimal
bee said:the difference between 1920x1080 and 1680x1050 (in terms of fps) in most games is minimal much like the difference between frame rates in using a 9800gtx+ or a gtx260 in SOME games and my 8800gts 512 is clocked at 760/2200 which is marginally faster than a 9800gtx+
i averaged 30-35fps easy 90%+ of the time on the settings i mentioned
Darklord said:Ok so I'm looking to get a new PC. Are there specs good and are there anything I should change(Obviously I'm not meaning add 3 new graphics card or anything crazy)?
CPU: Intel Q9450
Good? Bad? Thoughts? This is my big upgrade and will need to last me 3 years or so.
chespace said:Not to downplay those coolers above, but I just want to say that there is nothing wrong whatsoever with the Arctic Cooler 7.
I'm pushing 3.8 on my Q9550 and peak temp is at 67 degrees after 10 hours of torture testing. It idles at 30 and hits low 50's when I play games. Basically, you'll probably never get to 67 degrees on any sort of normal application use, and even if you do, it's perfectly safe.
The ACF7 has push pins, easy to install, and is very cheap.
I was checking the specs on this cooler, and it says it takes 120Watts, isn't that a lot?bee said:noisy though like all 92mm high rpm fans are
i've heard good things about the new'ish arctic cooling freezer xtreme, also uses push pins if you like them and cools a fair bit better whilst being quieter with a 120mm fan
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personally i'd always go with one that you can fit your own choice of 120mm fan to, then you can get 1 or 2 yate loon or sharkoons or something like that for great and silent cooling
godhandiscen said:I was checking the specs on this cooler, and it says it takes 120Watts, isn't that a lot?
Thanks, my bad.Shubit said:That piece of info means it effectively cools a 120W TDP CPU not it's power draw. The Arctic Cooling site specifies 160W actually.
prodystopian said:Unless you are getting some kind of a great deal on this, get the q9550. Prices are the same on newegg (~$320) and actually the 9550 is cheaper.
Shubit said:Darklord:
Unless you plan on going dual HD 4870 X2 I'd suggest looking into a p45 chipset motherboard instead. The Gigabyte EP45-UD3P is the current price/performance champ and comes highly recommended on various overclocker forums or alternatively if you want to go ASUS both the P5Q-E and especially the P5Q Deluxe give great results and are amongst the most popular boards out there.
As for CPU: that extra 0.5 multi the q9550 offers is worth the 20 bucks or so premium. It definitely shows even on a mild overclock when you are comfortably pushing an additional 200MHz or more at same FSB (shows in games since latest gpu's are being bottlenecked by CPU's ability to feed them data).
For cooling a quad I'd personally go with something more concrete than ACF7 you are being recommended: Xigmatek HDT-S1283 or the newer HDT-S1284EE (make sure it's the EE and not Achilles, as that sucked). They both come with Intel's easy to install pushpin mounts by default and you can even buy an optional (cheap) backplate mounting kit if you prefer. There are some other great more or less reasonably priced coolers out there so definitely check online reviews and people's opinions (to make sure it fits on your MB of choice) on newegg and such.
Hazaro said:1920x1200 is 16:10 while 1920x1080 is 16:9
Unless you want the picture to be stretched (which some monitors do) it is just leaving out the space to give you a normal picture.
I think it's called 1:1 something, could be mistaken for another feature though.
Darklord said:The Q9550 cheapest price is about $90 more than the Q9450's cheapest in Australia. :\
Thanks for the tips. I'll have a look into the changes you recommended.
Also, should I just get the 32 bit version of Vista? I've heard a lot of driver issues and other problems on the 64 version.
For a gaming pc, they're more or less the same...kakashi08 said:For a Gaming PC.
1) Vista 32bit "Home Premium"
or
2) Vista 32bit "Ultimate"
Darklord said:Thanks for the tips. I'll have a look into the changes you recommended.
Also, should I just get the 32 bit version of Vista? I've heard a lot of driver issues and other problems on the 64 version.
rc213 said:Vista 64-bit recommendations
Have you guys run into any apps that refuse to run? What if a specific app has only a 32-bit exe?
None at all. Vista 64 ftw.rc213 said:Vista 64-bit recommendations
Have you guys run into any apps that refuse to run? What if a specific app has only a 32-bit exe?
godhandiscen said:None at all. Vista 64 ftw.
Manp said:only drivers need to be 64 bit. most 32bit apps should work.
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Minsc said:How many games from the mid-late 90s work perfectly? Is there even a good resource for that? Even from the early 2000s could potentially be iffy.
Anyone with Vista 64-bit extensively test older games? Or maybe a website has a list?
bee said:use gog.com all their old games work fine on vista 64, the only old ones i've come across that don't work are ones that use old tages protection which is incompatible with vista 64
brain_stew said:I've been given a strict budget (£300) to build a nice rig for my brother so I decided to harvest some of my aprts as it gives me an excuse to upgrade. :lol I'm giving him my E2180 (which clocks to 3ghz+ quite easily), 2GB OCZ low latency RAM, and 512MB 8800GT for £100, which is quite a good deal if you ask me!! They cost me close to £200 just 4/5 months ago and a new 8800GT is still around the £90 mark.
I've picked up a 460w Gigabyte PSU, 640GB HDD, Gigabyte P43 DS3L (which makes my P35 jealous) , nice ASUS Vento case, DVDRW, Akasa 965 (such a great budget cooler), couple of case fans and a wireless PCI card for just £200. Which should mean he's got a pretty sweet rig that'll basically max out any game at his resolution (1280x768) for very little at all.
It also means I can get an upgrade to an E5200, 4GB RAM and a 4850 for £100 which I'm pretty happy about. I didn't really need the upgrade at all, but the temptation was too big and it meant my brother would get more bang for his buck as well.
I'm looking forward to it coming as it means I've got lots of tweaking and building to do.
Really interested to see what the 4850 can do.![]()
brain_stew said:Quick question regarding Vista 64. Apparently I qualify for a £40 version of Vista Ultimate, the only snag is that its the upgrade version but I know you use to be able to install a trial version first (by not adding your serial first time?) time as a fresh install. Is this still possible?
larvi said:I'm guessing this is what you are referring to? I've never tried it but it looks like it shoudl work:
http://www.dailytech.com/article.aspx?newsid=5932
rc213 said::X Shows how little I know, I had no idea that was the case.
brain_stew said:Quick question regarding Vista 64. Apparently I qualify for a £40 version of Vista Ultimate, the only snag is that its the upgrade version but I know you use to be able to install a trial version first (by not adding your serial first time?) time as a fresh install. Is this still possible?
Installing a 64-bit version of Windows Vista on a computer that is running a 32-bit version of Windows XP or of Windows 2000
Most Windows XP and Windows 2000 users have the 32-bit version of these operating systems. For example, Windows 2000, Windows XP Home, Windows Tablet Edition and Windows Media Center Edition only come in 32-bit versions. For these operating systems, there is no upgrade installation path available when you upgrade from a 32-bit operating system to a 64-bit operating system. However, you can perform a custom installation that uses an upgrade license.
After you purchase a Windows Vista DVD, follow these steps:
1. Back up all the data and the settings by using Windows XP Backup.
Note You can also use Windows Easy Transfer. This back up program is available on the Windows Vista DVD. However, you must use the version that is on the 32-bit Windows Vista DVD if you want to use Windows Easy Transfer to back up a 32-bit version of Windows.
2. Insert the 64-bit version of Windows Vista into the system DVD drive, and then restart the computer.
3. Start Windows Vista Setup from the DVD when you are prompted.
Note You must start Windows Vista Setup by starting the computer from the Windows Vista 64-bit DVD. The installation package will not run on a 32-bit operating system.
4. When you are prompted during Windows Vista Setup, remember to select Custom as the installation type.
5. After installation is complete, you can restore the data from its backup location.
bee said:remember to do this
evil solrac v3.0 said:for my Next PC what should i Go with?
GX2 in SLI Mode?
or
9800 GTX+ in SLI?
or
GTX 260 in SLI Mode?
as always i'm looking to "future" proof (whatever that means) and the most bang for my buck. and my second question is I have an EVGA 780i motherboard. does it accept DDR3 RAM?
brain_stew said:A single 4870X2 would be your best bet, much simpler and it should be faster than all of them options. 100% don't get two GX2s the scaling past two cards is non existant and the 512MB framebuffer is going to be a huge bottleneck.
What resolution are you using? Only consider the X2 or going SLI if its 1080p or higher. Its a waste otherwise, and you'll get a lot more bang for your buck with a single 4870 or GTX 260.
Completely pointless buying DDR3 RAM as it offers no performance benefits with the current CPUs and it isn't even "future proof" as Nehalem requires "triple channel" kits. So you've no guarantee a twin pack picked up today will be any real use with a Nehalem rig. Just stick to DDR2, even DDR2 800 is more than enough for the vast majority of rigs, assuming you aren't attempting an extreme overclock.
If you haven't already bought the motherboard, I'd recommend picking up a P45 borad instead.
Edit: After getting upto speed on US prices, the GTX 260 really is quite nicely priced, if you demand the performance then two of them in SLI looks a decent option.
evil solrac v3.0 said:i Have a 24" inch Monitor at 1920X1200. will my motherboard (the EVGA 780i) accept a 4870 though? what power supply would i need for SLI 260 or 4870 1Gb or say the X2?
(i heard that ATI has driver support issues?) thank you for the answers. very helpful.
brain_stew said:Ofcourse any ATI card will work. At that res. a 4870X2 would indeed be of use, SLI 260s is still an option as well of course.
What power supply do you run currently? "Wattage" figures are wholly irrelevant, but I'd recommend something like a Corsair 620w.
evil solrac v3.0 said:Ooh... good to know! this is my PSU at the moment NZXT PP800 Performance Power ATX 2.0 Power as chico escuela use to say "PSU has been bery bery goo to me!" uh... anyways, it's 800 Watts.
i'm not really versed in how many volts it provides and such (am still learning about PC hardware, but i love it and i don't think i'll be going back to consoles!)
flsh said:Going to buy a new PC in a week and I'm having a few quick questions.
I'm thinking about getting the E8400, 4 gigs of DDR2 and an Asus P5QL-E (P43 chipset) motherboard. Anything better around?
Also, going to get a DVD burner, 500GB and either a 4870 or GTX260. Which graphics card should I take?
And how strong should the PSU be?
PC will be 90% for WoW, 10% other games until star craft 2 comes and I'll forget about WoW![]()
brain_stew said:You'd be VERY well served spending a little bit more to upgrade to a P43 motherboard (essential for overclocking that E5200, it begs for it
Yixian said:I r a noob, what benefits other than OCing the processor would there be to getting a better motherboard?
Or should I just get a Intel Core 2 Duo E4600?
EDIT: Ok here's a revised build. Note that I will buy that processor off eBay where it can be found for £20 cheaper.
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