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Tech Support GAF Thread: No Case Too Big, No Case Too Small

mj1108

Member
bigmit3737 said:
K guys. I am having a PC problem.

I am getting this message on start up:
"system32/config file is missing". It also indicates to insert XP CD-ROM and click R to repair"


Problem is my cd-rom is not reading the windows xp installation disk. I do have an external harddrive and flash drive.

What should I do?

Thank you.

When you first turn your computer on hit something like F1, Delete, F10 or F12 (it depends on the motherboard manufacturer) to go into the BIOS and see if the CD drive is the first thing in the boot order. Set it as the first bootable device then save the settings and restart.
 

Hawkian

The Cryptarch's Bane
Right, I don't know if you were even talking about trying to boot from the XP disc, but that is what you should try- make sure CD is set to boot first, then do a repair installation of windows. Seems like your install might have been corrupted.
 
claviertekky said:
So, tell me what driver version did you use?

Games? Specs? OS? What does the crash report say specifically? Post it here.

I would say graphics drivers first. To properly do this, download the driver update first. Then, uninstall the old drivers through add/remove programs. Restart. Then, run the driver update utility.

Hey it worked! Thanks for all your help :D
 
mj1108 said:
When you first turn your computer on hit something like F1, Delete, F10 or F12 (it depends on the motherboard manufacturer) to go into the BIOS and see if the CD drive is the first thing in the boot order. Set it as the first bootable device then save the settings and restart.

Thank you but still no go.

CD drive is the first bootable device with harddrive second. But it's still not reading the CD.

Yes I am trying to boot from my XP Disc. (response to the other post).

I will try one more time and see if there is any go and will report back.

Thanks for the advice.
 

DaCocoBrova

Finally bought a new PSP, but then pushed the demon onto someone else. Jesus.
I have Dell X1 without an optical drive and I need to install XP. I tried an older HP external burner to try and boot to the XP CD that way and it didn't work.

So, I took the time to learn how to install XP via a USB flash drive, but it eventually asks me to put in the CD, which defeats the purpose.

So...what do I do?
 

clav

Member
Ashhong said:
yea, at least before it was a max of 60 so it was going like 30-60. but now it was going 30-100. of course i might make it sound worse than it is. its not unplayable by any means, and is over 40fps most of the time.

what about my upgrade situation? my friend would like to upgrade his card, so it would be nice if we could both get what we want
Mm. I think this is more of a question for the I need a new PC GAF thread.

I gave up on PC gaming as I hated dealing with upgrading hardware all the time.

Console gaming made it so easy with gaming.

What I would do is just wait on http://www.slickdeals.net/ and scour the forums or wait for a front page deal.

Usually the cards mentioned in those threads talk about performance and you can ask there. Plus, you'll get a terrific deal.

LethaL ImpuLse said:
Ok so I recently got an Epson NX415 inkjet printer and I have it connected to my PC via USB. Problem is, every once in a while, say maybe every 30 minutes, the printer just randomly disconnects and reconnects itself. I can tell because I can hear the disconnect and reconnect USB jingle that XP plays; it disconnects and reconnects itself immediately after.

Kind of a minor problem but it gets annoying to hear those sounds repeatedly. I've tried google, and the Epson site, but I really don't know what's wrong. Maybe it's something simple I'm missing, so I thought I'd try out this thread.
Is this connected to a USB hub? That could be the problem.

bigmit3737 said:
K guys. I am having a PC problem.

I am getting this message on start up:
"system32/config file is missing". It also indicates to insert XP CD-ROM and click R to repair"


Problem is my cd-rom is not reading the windows xp installation disk. I do have an external harddrive and flash drive.

What should I do?

Thank you.

Do you have two CD drives? Try them in both. If not, make a USB drive.

This is an original XP CD right? Not burned?

DaCocoBrova said:
I have Dell X1 without an optical drive and I need to install XP. I tried an older HP external burner to try and boot to the XP CD that way and it didn't work.

So, I took the time to learn how to install XP via a USB flash drive, but it eventually asks me to put in the CD, which defeats the purpose.

So...what do I do?

When does it tell you that you have to put in a CD? When it boots it boots into Windows BE (when you have the mouse cursor and everything?)

Did you modify in CD in anyway like XP Lite or are you using the original CD?

Why did the HP External burner did not work? Does it just not boot the CD at all?

One thing I've done for laptops/netbooks to boot XP without using USB is to take an external USB IDE (PATA) drive that you can take apart. Connect the power and IDE cable to a DVD/CD Rom drive/burner and plug in the respective power and usb cables to the computer.

It's a very ugly solution, but it works.
 
claviertekky said:
Mm.... eww. I don't recommend using the Western Digital software when it comes to storage. The original operating system way of managing data files is probably the best way.

That said, is there a way to uninstall the western digital software on there without losing your data or could you just delete it?

I'll have to look into that.

As for your file format system, you are using Windows right? Have you ever tried fitting a single file that took up more than 4GB? It won't fit on a FAT32 drive. You'll need to choose NTFS (Windows) or HFS(Mac). FAT32 is just universally compatible.
I'm about to grab a WD HD, so do you mean just don't bother installing the software that comes with it?
 

clav

Member
Shalashaska said:
I'm about to grab a WD HD, so do you mean just don't bother installing the software that comes with it?
I would format the hard drive using the disk manager that's included in Windows/OS X.

Don't bother with the software unless you absolutely need to use data encryption, which I think is a joke.
 
claviertekky said:
I would format the hard drive using the disk manager that's included in Windows/OS X.

Don't bother with the software unless you absolutely need to use data encryption, which I think is a joke.
I won't need data encryption, just need to store my files on something until I get a computer. So for windows just format into NTFS?
 

clav

Member
Shalashaska said:
I won't need data encryption, just need to store my files on something until I get a computer. So for windows just format into NTFS?
Be sure to format it using the disk utility just to see if there are any unnecessary partitions.

1. Right click my computer -> manage.
2. Go to storage -> Disk management.
3. Check to see if there are any partitions. If not, go ahead and format through there.

So, yes format NTFS.

SundaySounds said:
wtf? what computer doesn't have an optical drive of any kind? isn't that kind of essential?

Ultraportable laptops.

The Dell X1 was there before the netbook craze took off.
 
wtf? what computer doesn't have an optical drive of any kind? isn't that kind of essential?
Moving from one place to another, using someone else's computer that only has CD drive :lol
I want an external HD anyway to hook up to my PS3 to watch stuff from if need be.

claviertekky said:
Be sure to format it using the disk utility just to see if there are any unnecessary partitions.

1. Right click my computer -> manage.
2. Go to storage -> Disk management.
3. Check to see if there are any partitions. If not, go ahead and format through there.

So, yes format NTFS.
Excellent thanks.
 

clav

Member
Shalashaska said:
Moving from one place to another, using someone else's computer that only has CD drive :lol
I want an external HD anyway to hook up to my PS3 to watch stuff from if need be.


Excellent thanks.
Oh dude, if you're using it with a PS3, I think the PS3 cannot read NTFS drives unless you are planning to use this with Linux.

Please reply!!!
 
claviertekky said:
Oh dude, if you're using it with a PS3, I think the PS3 cannot read NTFS drives unless you are planning to use this with Linux.

Please reply!!!
Yeah I'll use it with my PS3. Since I'm moving it's probably going to be my DVD/Blu-Ray player so once I get my own computer I'll be burning my DVDs and play them through my PS3 to save the disc drive from any wear it doesn't need.

Although I guess I'll have to make sure the video sizes end up being under the file limit.
 

clav

Member
Shalashaska said:
Yeah I'll use it with my PS3. Since I'm moving it's probably going to be my DVD/Blu-Ray player so once I get my own computer I'll be burning my DVDs and play them through my PS3 to save the disc drive from any wear it doesn't need.
Then, you'll have to keep it in FAT32 format if you're not going to use this in conjunction with linux with mplayer or vlc.

I assume you want to play videos through the dashboard?
 
claviertekky said:
Then, you'll have to keep it in FAT32 format if you're not going to use this in conjunction with linux with mplayer or vlc.

I assume you want to play videos through the dashboard?
Yeah.
 

clav

Member
http://www.softpedia.com/get/System/Hard-Disk-Utils/FAT32format.shtml

If the drive is not formatted already in FAT32 or if you want to reformat, download that.

use it with the following syntax using command prompt (elevated to administrator mode):

fat32format [DRIVE LETTER]:

(i.e. fat32format E:)

Note: FAT32 drives cannot store a file that weighs over 4 GB. For instance, if your video is 4.1 GB and you try to fit it on a 500 GB hard drive formatted FAT32, it will not work. It will claim there is enough space even though there is. You will need to split this video file.

The reason why you have to use FAT32format is that in Windows, you can't format a drive in FAT32 over 32 GB (I forget the exact #).

What you could try doing (I've done this for a Xbox) is that you could make a FAT32 drive primary and the rest NTFS.

Let me know what you want to do.
 

Leunam

Member
I need help with my home PC. I had to reformat the entire thing so I took that chance to install Windows 7. So for now, that's the only OS on my computer. Now, I don't know if this is coincidence or something, but my computer is starting to overheat when it does anything that's taxing on the graphics card. I can't play any games without the computer overheating and crashing. I don't know if it has anything to do with 7 but I can't think of anything else. I cleaned out all the dust and all 4 fans are working (graphics card, motherboard, and two case fans). I'm at a complete loss. I installed Rivatuner so I could crank up the fans but it still doesn't stop the computer from overheating.

Any ideas?
 

clav

Member
Leunam said:
I need help with my home PC. I had to reformat the entire thing so I took that chance to install Windows 7. So for now, that's the only OS on my computer. Now, I don't know if this is coincidence or something, but my computer is starting to overheat when it does anything that's taxing on the graphics card. I can't play any games without the computer overheating and crashing. I don't know if it has anything to do with 7 but I can't think of anything else. I cleaned out all the dust and all 4 fans are working (graphics card, motherboard, and two case fans). I'm at a complete loss. I installed Rivatuner so I could crank up the fans but it still doesn't stop the computer from overheating.

Any ideas?
It sounds like you are missing a driver, either a chipset driver or the video driver or even both.

Open up your device manager. Post a screenshot of it. Are there any devices with ! marks?

Also, paste your specs from dxdiag (start button -> type dxdiag).

Is this the 7 RC or final?
 

Leunam

Member
RC. I'll take a look at the drivers and repost my results later, since I'm at work. I should have mentioned that I have the latest video driver but I haven't checked the chipset drivers. Thanks.
 

clav

Member
Leunam said:
RC. I'll take a look at the drivers and repost my results later, since I'm at work. Thanks.
Were your reasons for formatting because you had problems with Windows? What specifically?

This might be hardware if you were experiencing the same thing.

Shalashaska said:
Sure, check your PMs.

Thanks.

All right, a call out to GAFFers out there. Where is a great place to buy computer stuff in Canada specifically?

NCIX, right? I think newegg also ships to Canada now. Looking for a portable hard drive for this fellow.
 
claviertekky said:
All right, a call out to GAFFers out there. Where is a great place to buy computer stuff in Canada specifically?

NCIX, right? I think newegg also ships to Canada now. Looking for a portable hard drive for this fellow.
What I'm looking at:
http://www.bestbuy.ca/catalog/proddetail.asp?sku_id=0926INGFS10129560&logon=&langid=EN#review1_full
Don't need anything fancy or expensive.

On a bit of a time crunch though, so online buying won't work. Need this by the end of the week.
 

clav

Member
Shalashaska said:
What I'm looking at:
http://www.bestbuy.ca/catalog/proddetail.asp?sku_id=0926INGFS10129560&logon=&langid=EN#review1_full
Don't need anything fancy or expensive.

On a bit of a time crunch though, so online buying won't work. Need this by the end of the week.
I've heard bad things about the new WD portable essentials. Amazon has this at 2 stars even though it's brand new.

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B002KG2LOA/?tag=neogaf0e-20

The older models of this were so much better
 

Doytch

Member
NCIX will give you one-day shipping on most external drives for $10/$15. If you're outside BC it'll probably be worth it since you won't pay PST.
 

Leunam

Member
claviertekky said:
Were your reasons for formatting because you had problems with Windows? What specifically?

This might be hardware if you were experiencing the same thing.

Not entirely sure, Windows would boot, reach the Vista loading splash, then reboot. Over and over. I wasn't having hardware issues before. It literally started the day I installed 7.
 

ultron87

Member
My desktop PC has been having a problem where it refuses to power on at all for about a day, but then works perfectly the next day. This happens in seemingly random spurts.

In my mind this is either a power supply problem or some sort of loose connection. Are there any other possibilities I'm ignoring? Can a power supply fail in such a way that it works occasionally but not all the time?

And I know it isn't a heat issue because when I hit the power button absolutely nothing happens, if it was overheating it would have to turn on for a little bit.
 

clav

Member
ultron87 said:
My desktop PC has been having a problem where it refuses to power on at all for about a day, but then works perfectly the next day. This happens in seemingly random spurts.

In my mind this is either a power supply problem or some sort of loose connection. Are there any other possibilities I'm ignoring? Can a power supply fail in such a way that it works occasionally but not all the time?

And I know it isn't a heat issue because when I hit the power button absolutely nothing happens, if it was overheating it would have to turn on for a little bit.
PSU or motherboard.

Borrow a friend's PSU or if you have another one and just do a simple power on test.

If the same thing occurs, then it's your motherboard.
 
Leunam said:
Not entirely sure, Windows would boot, reach the Vista loading splash, then reboot. Over and over. I wasn't having hardware issues before. It literally started the day I installed 7.

yeah, sounds like a driver issue (The new problem, not the old one), Are you going to get the official release of W7 when it comes out? (3 days ahhhhh!)
 

DaCocoBrova

Finally bought a new PSP, but then pushed the demon onto someone else. Jesus.
When does it tell you that you have to put in a CD? When it boots it boots into Windows BE (when you have the mouse cursor and everything?)

Did you modify in CD in anyway like XP Lite or are you using the original CD?

Why did the HP External burner did not work? Does it just not boot the CD at all?


It does it right after you select what it is you want to do (repair format and/or install). It's a Dell Resource Disc w/ XP SP2 on it. Works fine for a regular disc installation.

The HP external was quite old, so I assumed that may have had something to do with it. I'd imagine this method of installation becoming a lot more frequent with the prevalence of netbooks and the like. This thing has been sitting in my office for over a year though because I just can't seem to get the USB XP installation to ever work. Very frustrating.
 

Leunam

Member
SundaySounds said:
yeah, sounds like a driver issue (The new problem, not the old one), Are you going to get the official release of W7 when it comes out? (3 days ahhhhh!)

I'll definitely get the new release. Is it worth it just to wait, then? The computer is still functional, just not when it comes to games.
 

clav

Member
DaCocoBrova said:
It does it right after you select what it is you want to do (repair format and/or install). It's a Dell Resource Disc w/ XP SP2 on it. Works fine for a regular disc installation.

The HP external was quite old, so I assumed that may have had something to do with it. I'd imagine this method of installation becoming a lot more frequent with the prevalence of netbooks and the like. This thing has been sitting in my office for over a year though because I just can't seem to get the USB XP installation to ever work. Very frustrating.
The thing about Dell resource or proprietary XP Windows installation CDs is that you can't really modify them to anything else onto USB.

The USB directions only apply to non-OEM/non-proprietary installations.

So your choices are:

1. Install XP using a different CD Key + Official Disk (not PC proprietary) via USB.

or

2. Find a way to use another optical CD drive. Try my method above if you have the materials or buy one for $50-$60. Or ask a friend!

or

3. Clean-install to Windows 7.

Leunam said:
I'll definitely get the new release. Is it worth it just to wait, then? The computer is still functional, just not when it comes to games.

That sounds like a RC issue. I had a few issues with the RC obtaining a wireless network using an Intel 2200BG wireless card. It would simply fail upon reboot.
 
Leunam said:
I'll definitely get the new release. Is it worth it just to wait, then? The computer is still functional, just not when it comes to games.

yes, It's entirely possible that the legit version of 7 could fix your problem. Although I'm pretty sure you'll have to format again.
 

Leunam

Member
claviertekky said:
That sounds like a RC issue. I had a few issues with the RC obtaining a wireless network using an Intel 2200BG wireless card. It would simply fail upon reboot.

Well shit, that may explain another issue.

SundaySounds said:
yes, It's entirely possible that the legit version of 7 could fix your problem. Although I'm pretty sure you'll have to format again.

That won't be a problem. There's almost nothing that I'll lose.

Thanks guys.
 

clav

Member
Leunam said:
Well shit, that may explain another issue.



That won't be a problem. There's almost nothing that I'll lose.

Thanks guys.
Well, just when you get home tonight, still check if there are any issues with your Device Manager and post your specs.
 
I currently have 2 versions of Windows 7 on my computer, one release candidate, and another Ultimate 64. Is there anyway to remove the RC version without formatting the hard drive its on?
 

clav

Member
gamerecks said:
I currently have 2 versions of Windows 7 on my computer, one release candidate, and another Ultimate 64. Is there anyway to remove the RC version without formatting the hard drive its on?
Are they on two separate partitions?

If they are, boot into the later and grab yourself a copy of easybcd 2.0 beta build 64.

Go to my computer -> right click > manage -> storage -> disk manager.

Delete the RC.

Run easybcd 2.0 beta 64 and let it rebuild the boot manager.

If this fails, then be sure to have your Ultimate 64 install disk and do a repair. It should find what to do and build back the bootloader.

------------------------------------------------------

Someone correct me here if i'm wrong.

I assume your drive partitioned: RC | Ultimate 64.
You want to make it so that this: [Blank] | Ultimate 64.
Then you would want to do this : Ultimate 64 | [Blank]
Then ultimately you would want: [Ultimate 64 ]

If your intention is to delete the RC and push back the Ultimate installation for more free space, you cannot do this.

You would need a clean reinstallation as even if you were to move back the partition using a third party utility like GParted, the Windows installation will be confused.
 
claviertekky said:
Are they on two separate partitions?

If they are, boot into the later and grab yourself a copy of easybcd 2.0 beta build 64.

Go to my computer -> right click > manage -> storage -> disk manager.

Delete the RC.

Run easybcd 2.0 beta 64 and let it rebuild the boot manager.

If this fails, then be sure to have your Ultimate 64 install disk and do a repair. It should find what to do and build back the bootloader.

Yup, two seperate partitions. I upgraded from Vista 64 to Ultimate 64 on one partition, and on another partition have the RC. So when my computer boots up, i have two windows 7 choices.

1 more question:

When I boot Windows 7 it stops on the account screen showing two accounts: Admin and mine. I want it to go directly into my account, no stopping at a accounts screen. How do I change this?
 

DaCocoBrova

Finally bought a new PSP, but then pushed the demon onto someone else. Jesus.
claviertekky said:
The thing about Dell resource or proprietary XP Windows installation CDs is that you can't really modify them to anything else onto USB.

The USB directions only apply to non-OEM/non-proprietary installations.

So your choices are:

1. Install XP using a different CD Key + Official Disk (not PC proprietary) via USB.


Hmmmm. That explains why TinyXP didn't work either. Thanks for following up. :)
 

clav

Member
gamerecks said:
Yup, two seperate partitions. I upgraded from Vista 64 to Ultimate 64 on one partition, and on another partition have the RC. So when my computer boots up, i have two windows 7 choices.

1 more question:

When I boot Windows 7 it stops on the account screen showing two accounts: Admin and mine. I want it to go directly into my account, no stopping at a accounts screen. How do I change this?
Please clarify the order of your partitions. Is it Vista 64/Ultimate 64 | RC

or

RC | Vista 64/ Ultimate 64

?

As for your autologin, you could either:

1. Just stay with the admin account with no password. Delete other accounts.

or

2. http://on10.net/blogs/sarahintampa/Tip-Auto-Login-Your-Windows-7-User-Account/

Press the Windows key + R on your keyboard to launch the “Run” dialog box.
Type in control userpasswords2
Press Enter. The User Accounts window will display.
Uncheck the option “Users must enter a user name and password to use this computer”
Click “OK”
You will then be prompted to enter the current password and confirm it.
After doing so, you will no longer be prompted to enter your password upon login.

^ The above also works with XP users who use classic login, too.
 

Leunam

Member
claviertekky said:
Well, just when you get home tonight, still check if there are any issues with your Device Manager and post your specs.

vr56k5.png


There it be. I checked in the Device Manager, seems everything is up to date and there are no issues.
 
Ok, this is a repost. Maybe you guys can help:


So I bought a used PC like a month ago and last week when I pressed the power button it made this... kind of like a grinding sound, then there was a pop and a smell like an electrical fire. After which, of course, it wouldn't power on.


At first I thought it was an issue with the power supply, so I bought a new thermaltake PSU from Best Buy the next day. When I plugged it in, the light on the back(of the PSU) just blinked amber. The fan didn't even turn on. There was a light on the motherboard that was also blinking on and off in time with the one on the PSU. Could it be a processor thing? I always thought that with no processor that the MOBO should still post, right.

Let's see, when I press the power button the MOBO won't post at all. As far as I know, the power supply is good. I tested it by connecting the power wire and a ground wire when it wasn't connected to the mobo. The fans kicked on and everything.


I'm fine with buying a new motherboard/processor if I have to, I just want to be as sure as I can be that it'll actually fix the problem before dropping some nontrivial cash on a new one.
 

Doytch

Member
It's probably the motherboard, KidGalactus. I think you heard a capacitor on the motherboard pop. I doubt the mobo would take the proc with it when it blew up.
 
Alright, here's a crazy one for you guys. To get right to the point, whenever I open my disc drive my wireless internet cuts out, but then reconnects again no problem about 6 seconds later. It really isn't a big deal since I barely ever use it since I buy all my games on Steam. But if I do happen to need to open it, it means I'm disconnected from IRC and I have to kill my ghost and reconnect and it's really annoying.

The drive is a LG GH22LP20.
I connect to the wireless network in my house using a Linksys WUSB600N Dual-Band Wireless-N USN Network Adapter (connecting to a wireless N network). I thought it might be some wacky consequence of an IRQ Interrupt conflict but I'm not seeing any conflicts so I don't think that's the problem. This has been going on for at least 1.5 years I think.

So there you go GAF, hit me up with your genius, I've made multiple attempts at finding out how to fix this over that time period with no luck. Cookies if you manage to fix it.
 

clav

Member
Leunam said:
http://i33.tinypic.com/vr56k5.png

There it be. I checked in the Device Manager, seems everything is up to date and there are no issues.
Hm. It could be a problem with the RC.

If you know someone who has a copy of Windows 7 RTM, just install it without a serial key. You have I think up to 120 days before you are required to permanently activate it.

KidGalactus said:
Ok, this is a repost. Maybe you guys can help:


So I bought a used PC like a month ago and last week when I pressed the power button it made this... kind of like a grinding sound, then there was a pop and a smell like an electrical fire. After which, of course, it wouldn't power on.


At first I thought it was an issue with the power supply, so I bought a new thermaltake PSU from Best Buy the next day. When I plugged it in, the light on the back(of the PSU) just blinked amber. The fan didn't even turn on. There was a light on the motherboard that was also blinking on and off in time with the one on the PSU. Could it be a processor thing? I always thought that with no processor that the MOBO should still post, right.

Let's see, when I press the power button the MOBO won't post at all. As far as I know, the power supply is good. I tested it by connecting the power wire and a ground wire when it wasn't connected to the mobo. The fans kicked on and everything.


I'm fine with buying a new motherboard/processor if I have to, I just want to be as sure as I can be that it'll actually fix the problem before dropping some nontrivial cash on a new one.

Sounds like the MOBO is fried. Buy a new one.

I prefer Gigabyte boards. When you get the new board, install only the CPU, RAM, and PSU.

Turn on the motherboard by simple bridging the + and - ends of the power jumper with a phillips flathead screw driver. If it POSTS, put everything in.

Note: Please put the motherboard on an antistatic bag/surface when you do this so you're not shorting out something.

Wormdundee said:
Alright, here's a crazy one for you guys. To get right to the point, whenever I open my disc drive my wireless internet cuts out, but then reconnects again no problem about 6 seconds later. It really isn't a big deal since I barely ever use it since I buy all my games on Steam. But if I do happen to need to open it, it means I'm disconnected from IRC and I have to kill my ghost and reconnect and it's really annoying.

The drive is a LG GH22LP20.
I connect to the wireless network in my house using a Linksys WUSB600N Dual-Band Wireless-N USN Network Adapter (connecting to a wireless N network). I thought it might be some wacky consequence of an IRQ Interrupt conflict but I'm not seeing any conflicts so I don't think that's the problem. This has been going on for at least 1.5 years I think.

So there you go GAF, hit me up with your genius, I've made multiple attempts at finding out how to fix this over that time period with no luck. Cookies if you manage to fix it.
What operating system are you using? 32bit or 64bit?
 

BadTaste

Member
I'm back again. Everything was going okay, for WoW at least.

I was playing Crysis Warhead and everything was going okay for a short while, until this happened...

wtf.jpg


Just as I entered the cutscene for the first snow level in Crysis Warhead, these things appeared on screen, what the hell? At first I thought his Nano Suit was fucking up or something lol.

Memory: 2048MB RAM
Processor: Intel(R) Core(TM)2 Duo CPU E8400 @ 3.00GHz (2 CPUs)
Card name: ATI Radeon HD 4800 Series ((it's a 4850))

ASUS P5KPL-AM Motherboard.

Heres pictures of all my essential Drivers, maybe somebody could see if something looks unstable or w/e.

http://i211.photobucket.com/albums/bb158/Darren3465/Usbc.jpg
http://i211.photobucket.com/albums/bb158/Darren3465/SDevices.jpg
http://i211.photobucket.com/albums/bb158/Darren3465/DvDcD.jpg
http://i211.photobucket.com/albums/bb158/Darren3465/dfD.jpg
http://i211.photobucket.com/albums/bb158/Darren3465/dfD2.jpg Fixed links
http://i211.photobucket.com/albums/bb158/Darren3465/DfD3.jpg
 

Leunam

Member
claviertekky said:
Hm. It could be a problem with the RC.

If you know someone who has a copy of Windows 7 RTM, just install it without a serial key. You have I think up to 120 days before you are required to permanently activate it.

I'll look into it, thanks.
 
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