Cheers
7950/670 dual-fan is my best option right? (preferably the former for the games)
They would be the two i would be considering in your budget yes.
Cheers
7950/670 dual-fan is my best option right? (preferably the former for the games)
They would be the two i would be considering in your budget yes.
Good enough for me
What does DPI mean when looking at a mouse?
Looking at this
http://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B0083H4NG4/
And it seems good for me, but has 2 options for DPI, and I don;t know what it means![]()
Good enough for me
What does DPI mean when looking at a mouse?
Looking at this
http://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B0083H4NG4/
And it seems good for me, but has 2 options for DPI, and I don;t know what it means![]()
So if I play games, shooters especially, with very low sensitivity settings, I should avoid high DPI mouses?http://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B007N6HS3G/ Get that if you want good sensor, comfort levels are decent too.
DPI is how sensitive the mouse is when you move it (dots per inch)
So if I play games, shooters especially, with very low sensitivity settings, I should avoid high DPI mouses?
I'm looking at some right now too, and I would preferably like something with:
- At least one or two extra programmable buttons
- Good/comfortable with palm grip
- Not too tacky/game-y looking
- Less than £30
So if I play games, shooters especially, with very low sensitivity settings, I should avoid high DPI mouses?
I'm looking at some right now too, and I would preferably like something with:
- At least one or two extra programmable buttons
- Good/comfortable with palm grip
- Not too tacky/game-y looking
- Less than £30
So if I play games, shooters especially, with very low sensitivity settings, I should avoid high DPI mouses?
I'm looking at some right now too, and I would preferably like something with:
- At least one or two extra programmable buttons
- Good/comfortable with palm grip
- Not too tacky/game-y looking
- Less than £30
Works fineThe Wired Xbox 360 controller does work with Windows 8 doesn't it? Only lists 7 and Vista in the amazon product description
A bit expensive, though.The Logitech G400 is among the best mice you can buy, and it's one of the few with a "perfect sensor". You shouldn't need anything more than 800 DPI.
Yea, I think Windows 8 now has drivers for it.I just took a gamble on the lower sensitivity Perixx. The higher sensitivity model looks ridiculous
The Wired Xbox 360 controller does work with Windows 8 doesn't it? Only lists 7 and Vista in the amazon product description
I do think this one looks better...hmm....Most decent mouse will allow you to adjust DPI. The steelseries can go quite low if need be. At £32 it's the only one that allows palm grip I can recommend since it's one of the few that allow all grips that I have used. It also has a couple of extra programmable buttons on the side.
Works fine
A bit expensive, though.
Yea, I think Windows 8 now has drivers for it.
I'm leaning towards that Perixx myself. It can be adjusted down to 500DPI. Its a *little* garish looking for my tastes, but it looks about what I need overall.
I do think this one looks better...hmm....
Yup. Should auto-install when you connect it.Official drivers right?
Looked it up where?Dammit. My old Windows key I got from uni doesn't work anymore apparently. When I looked it up I got the "BBBBB-BBBBB...etc" key. I thought the university ones were supposed to stay good?
Do these overpriced workstation boards offer you something you need for your work? If not then just get MSI G45 gaming or MSI MPower at the higher end.
Yes you can overclock later. Youu don't need the extra thermal paste. The H100 comes pre applied. You can drop that down to a H80 and get a mid tower case. The full tower is really for custom loop water cooling and stuff.
Just make sure it has everything you need. Haswell boards are all 6gbs SATA. Just reading up on them and seeing how they manage power to the CPU. That affects levels and stability of overclocks you will be able to get. The stuff in the OP is so far the best we can recommend.Thanks for the input.
I don't know anything about motherboards really it had Wi-Fi built in, had 6GB SATA and had a good user rating so I just clicked that one. Anything I should look for in terms of motherboards?
Just make sure it has everything you need. Haswell boards are all 6gbs SATA. Just reading up on them and seeing how they manage power to the CPU. That affects levels and stability of overclocks you will be able to get. The stuff in the OP is so far the best we can recommend.
What you should do is get a MSI G45 gaming http://www.scan.co.uk/products/msi-...-sata-raid-pcie-30-(x16)-d-sub-dvi-d-hdmi-atx or MSI Mpower Why? Because it's a sexy yellow, no other reason really. http://www.scan.co.uk/products/msi-...-sata-raid-pcie-30-(x16)-displayport-hdmi-atx
Drop the case down to a Arc Midi R2 or Define R4. http://www.scan.co.uk/products/fractal-design-arc-midi-r2-air-flow-case-black-with-window or any other mid tower that catches your fancy. Check OP for best ones.
You don't even need the H80. Quite often air coolers give as good performance as closed loop cooler. Hyper 212 is the usual recommendation http://www.scan.co.uk/products/cool...-with-120mm-quiet-fan-lga775-1155-1156-1366-a Noctua for more high end stuff, this thing is beast. http://www.scan.co.uk/products/noct...r-x6-heat-pipe-quiet-cpu-cooler-with-2-x-fans
If you get one of the air coolers go with these RAM http://www.scan.co.uk/products/16gb...ck-pc3-12800-(1600)-non-ecc-cas-10-10-10-27-x cheaper, same performance won't block the fan.
Save the money or get a better graphics card with whats left. Shop around for better prices. I just gave Scan because I find pcpartpicker finding stuff a little odd.
Just get one of the gigabyte boards: UD3H or UD4H, they're much better built than the MSI gaming boards (G45/G65) but cheaper than the mpower.
Thanks. I am going to get a Fractal Designs R4 Mid Tower case and I'll look into getting a different motherboard and cooling options (as well as RAM that doesn't take up as much room).
The one you ordered is 1920x1200(16:10), which is usually more desirable unless you watch a lot of movies.Looking at monitors...I've ordered this one. However, this one is also available for just £5 more. Anyone know which is the better option?
Not alone that, but this monitor also appears to be cheaper, despite the "-P" version of it looking more expensive in the OP.
What say you, gaf? Stick with the one I've got, or get one of the others?
The one you ordered is 1920x1200(16:10), which is usually more desirable unless you watch a lot of movies.
Until you want to play the odd console port that doesn't offer native 16:10 and you have to mock around with flawless widescreen and ini files for half an hour to get true 16:10.The one you ordered is 1920x1200(16:10), which is usually more desirable unless you watch a lot of movies.
The one you ordered is 1920x1200(16:10), which is usually more desirable unless you watch a lot of movies.
So I understand that the 670 is a faster card than the 760. The Gigabyte GTX 760 Windforce OC 2GB that I was looking at performs very similarly to a 670 but is still, in the majority of games tested, beaten by it - if only by a frame here and there.
However, I've spotted an Asus GTX 670 DirectCU II OC 2GB that is $50 less than the 760 mentioned above, even though on Newegg it's $65 more expensive. This....is a great deal right?
A 670 for $210? That's a great price.
Hah not quite that great, it's $50 less than the 760 costs at this swiss site, not newegg's price. It's 254 chf or $275, and newegg has it for $325.
Aah, forget you are just converting price. If that is similar price to the 760 then yeah get the 670. It is the better card overall. Definitely buy it if it is less.
MmmmmmmmmmmmmmmI just wanted to preface this by saying thanks to everyone keeping this thread going; especially Hazaro. I had not built a PC in years; so this guide was a huge help.
When I was collecting the parts for my build; I had no gaf account. I was just approved now; so posting my parts is more for feedback; but it's too late to alter it at this point:
- BitFenix Prodigy
- Intel Core i5-4670K - Socket LGA1150, 3.4Ghz
- ASUS ROG MAXIMUS VI IMPACT Socket 1150 Intel Z87
- G.Skill 16GB (2 x 8GB PC3-12800 1600MHz DDR3 RAM - 10-10-10-30) - RipjawsX Series
- Seasonic Platinum-660 Fully Modular 80PLUS 660W PSU
- MSI GeForce GTX 770 Twin Frozr 3 2GB GDDR5
- Samsung 840 Series 120GB 2.5" SATA 6Gb/s SSD
- Corsair Hydro Series H60 2013 Liquid CPU Cooler
- ASUS (DRW-24B3ST)
- WD10EZEX 1TB
- Microsoft Windows 8 64-Bit English OEM
Cheers!
My build is almost identical. Word of advice regarding the Prodigy/H60/Impact combo - it's difficult to mount the H60 2013 (due to the thicker, longer tubes. It's very different to the old version you see in builds) anywhere else other than the top fan hole closest to the front of the case. This means you'll not be able to use the 5.5" bay for a drive (if you were planning to).I just wanted to preface this by saying thanks to everyone keeping this thread going; especially Hazaro. I had not built a PC in years; so this guide was a huge help.
When I was collecting the parts for my build; I had no gaf account. I was just approved now; so posting my parts is more for feedback; but it's too late to alter it at this point:
- BitFenix Prodigy
- Intel Core i5-4670K - Socket LGA1150, 3.4Ghz
- ASUS ROG MAXIMUS VI IMPACT Socket 1150 Intel Z87
- G.Skill 16GB (2 x 8GB PC3-12800 1600MHz DDR3 RAM - 10-10-10-30) - RipjawsX Series
- Seasonic Platinum-660 Fully Modular 80PLUS 660W PSU
- MSI GeForce GTX 770 Twin Frozr 3 2GB GDDR5
- Samsung 840 Series 120GB 2.5" SATA 6Gb/s SSD
- Corsair Hydro Series H60 2013 Liquid CPU Cooler
- ASUS (DRW-24B3ST)
- WD10EZEX 1TB
- Microsoft Windows 8 64-Bit English OEM
Cheers!
Rephrase of a previous question: Are the 960GB/1TB SSDs a waste of money?
Rephrase of a previous question: Are the 960GB/1TB SSDs a waste of money?
No.Rephrase of a previous question: Are the 960GB/1TB SSDs a waste of money?
Yea, matter of taste. Seems most enthusiasts I've come across online do prefer 16:10 if they can get it, though.Euu. 16:9 all day.
Haven't come across this issue yet, but that does sound like a pain.Until you want to play the odd console port that doesn't offer native 16:10 and you have to mock around with flawless widescreen and ini files for half an hour to get true 16:10.
Ah yea, missed that, my bad.According to the reviews that's a misprint(ie. it's 1080 pixels high). I'm just unsure whether to go for the one that's £5 more, not sure what improvements it offers, if any.
Motherboard?Whats a good CPU to replace my current one? I currently have an i3-2120 with a 7850 2gb.
Something in the $200 price range would be good. I'm currently looking at the i5-3570k but want to make sure its the best possible one before going for it.
ASRock B75Motherboard?
Is that the best option? I'm more then willing to get a new mobo or replace some other parts. Want to be ready for inc gen.Only reason I ask is that there's basically no reason for you to get a K processor, as you won't be able to overclock it. Just get the standard 3570.
*edit*
Also, Kharma, you were asking about when people actually upgraded from the i3 to i5/i7. Anecdote right here for ya![]()
It's a fair bit to spend. Motherboard would be over $100, I don't know if overclocking is worth $100.Is that the best option? I'm more then willing to get a new mobo or replace some other parts. Want to be ready for inc gen.
I need help, GAF! The PC I built this weekend doesn't work quite yet. The fan on the cpu and the 3 fans within the case all turn on. The light on my motherboard is lit up. There is power to both my hard drive and my dvd drive. None of the ports on the back of the motherboard seems to function (monitor says no signal, neither keyboard or mouse show signs of life when plugged in).
Here's a list of my parts along with a few pics. I plan on cleaning up the wires once I know that everything is in place. Many thanks!
Memory: G. Skill Ares Series 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive
Video Card: Sapphire Radeon HD 7850 2GB Video Card
Case: Fractal Design Core 3000 USB 3.0 (Black) ATX Mid Tower Case
Power Supply: Antec Basiq Plus 550W 80 PLUS Certified ATX12V Power Supply
Monitor: Asus VS228 22" Monitor
CPU: Intel i5-4670k
Motherboard: MSI Z87-G45
![]()
![]()
![]()
I reseated the CPU and RAM. Still the same problems.
I pulled out the battery, shorted it for 5 seconds, and placed it back into place. Still the same problems.
I should also note that after the computer boots, it stays on for 10 seconds or so before restarting. After that it stays on.
Thank you everyone for the help!
I just unplugged ever power connector and replugged them in. Still the same result. I was way off on the time though. It stays on for about 25 seconds before restarting, not 10 seconds like I stated earlier.
I also tried booting with just one stick of RAM in slot 2 and got the same result.
Thanks for the assistance, Hazaro!