Support NeoGAF

[It's Reyn Time!]

But the charging bonus tho

Getting an extra attack is useless if you're cut down every time by superior initiative.

I got a question, I got that citadel technical paint called 'Ard Coat that makes the paints under it all glossy and shiny like glass. So do I thin it down with water like a normal paint or can I just use it straight out of the pot?

You just use it straight from the pot. It's brilliant for sealing in transfers too. 'Ardcoat, transfer, 'ardcoat, lahmian medium to remove the glaze.

 

[It's Reyn Time!]

Edit: double post

 

[BattleMonkey]

Getting an extra attack is useless if you're cut down every time by superior initiative.

Yep, it only really was worth it for playing horde armies where you just got to toss a bucket of dice at your opponent.

High initiative made it so armies could be very static and not have to worry about being out maneuvered or charged unless a person came at you with a huge mob unit. They had to keep changing the rules on who gets to fight since Initiative kept screwing things up, your giant charge? Well the front line is gone, so only a couple attacks even happen..... yea so that kept getting tweaked in every edition.

 

[SillyEskimo]

The Vermillion Vanguard is coming together.

 

[Nazo]

You just use it straight from the pot. It's brilliant for sealing in transfers too. 'Ardcoat, transfer, 'ardcoat, lahmian medium to remove the glaze.

Awesome! thanks for the tip.

 

[NEO0MJ]

Well, first skeleton warrior put together. Figured out some stuff on how to better glue the next one. How long should I wait before washing and then priming it?

 

[Leunam]

Just to be safe, I usually wait until the next day to prime miniatures after I've assembled a few. After priming I wait an hour for the paint to dry and verify its good to go before actually getting to work. Washes take longer than acrylic to dry so after I've laid down my base coats and then apply a wash I give it half an hour until I do anything else.

What colors are you hoping to use here?

 

[NEO0MJ]

What colors are you hoping to use here?

I don't know. I didn't think that far ahead. What I had in mind was something using a mix of flat white, flat flesh, and desert yellow. They seem like the best colors I own that can be used for Skeletons. As for armor I'm not sure. I plan on eventually building Arkhan and having them all in his color scheme but I wonder if I should stick to GW's color scheme or deviate.

Oh, and by wash I meant literal wash with water and soap. I forgot that unlike snap on model kits here they'll be bonded by glue. And while plastic cement probably hold better I'm still worried something might come apart.

I plan on going all the way from this one and use what I learned on the others who I plan to build in groups.

 

[Leunam]

I kind of thought that's what you meant by wash. I've been putting plastic dudes together since 2005 and I've never once washed them per the instructions. Plastic Citadel kits are usually very free from mold release agent. But if you choose to that's totally OK. I'd scrub and rinse off the entire sprue prior to assembly though.

Except resin kits. They always get a very thorough cleaning beforehand. Definitely wash those. The only plastic kits I've ever scrubbed were Gundam kits but even then I don't think it was ultra necessary.

 

[NEO0MJ]

I like to clean after building so all the dust from sanding/etc gets removed as well.

 

[BattleMonkey]

GW plastic doesn't need washing, plastic injection moulding is real clean. The cheaper resin/pvc casts some companies use though can use some cleaning.

So the Fallout miniature wargame apparently has option for AI control to allow for solo and coop gameplay. Interesting to see how this goes....

 

[Leunam]

So the Fallout miniature wargame apparently has option for AI control to allow for solo and coop gameplay. Interesting to see how this goes....

This is something that's always interested me about miniature and board games, AI control. Kingdom Death has an AI deck for monster encounters which I've wanted to see in action.

 

[BattleMonkey]

This is something that's always interested me about miniature and board games, AI control. Kingdom Death has an AI deck for monster encounters which I've wanted to see in action.

Wonder how it will work without a board? Typically any AI controlled game has had a board with grids/hexes/squares that are used to control movement rules and such. Without it, no idea. But wondering if perhaps this game is gonna require the use of terrain mats or something perhaps?

 

[manfestival]

Getting an extra attack is useless if you're cut down every time by superior initiative.

But I will miss my initiative 2

 

[BreezyLimbo]

So will Blood Angels finally be good after this change

Up there with Khorne Berzerkers. Damn they're gonna be nasty.

edit: Anyone have experience with magnetic primers?

 

[Li Kao]

Hey guys, long time no see !
Last time I was there I was cheerfully coming back from a burnout that... came back just a few days after ^_^

But I'm back again and I more or less finished my Start Collecting Nekron box.
Just a matter of finding the courage to do some highlights on the now glued Canoptek Spider. FFS I should have done that before...

My next project will if all goes according to keikaku, be painting the base Sigmar game. The Sigmarines are glued and primed (retributor gold spray in fact) and chaos is nearly all glued.


Oh, question from someone who hasn't followed news closely : what is the difference between Kill Team and Shadow War ? At first (very basic) glance I'm wondering why there are two skirmish 40k games.
Anf wtf is this shit with selling a Shadow War box with fig and replacing that with a Shadow War box without figs ? Unless I'm mistaken I could swear I had kept a link (that now don't work) to a 100€ box with rules, figs and some scenery, but now GW is selling some 132€ box with rules and scenery only ?

 

[Ohnonono]

Yay, they are releasing the SW:A rules as a separate book. Will start a kill team and move into an army with 8th. Perfect!

 

[SillyEskimo]

Yay, they are releasing the SW:A rules as a separate book. Will start a kill team and move into an army with 8th. Perfect!

The new book will include all the factions introduced so far, which kind of irks me. I have to use the book and a pdf. At the very least, they should include scouts/guard/orks in the pdf so all factions are together.

 

[ScatheZombie]

Oh, question from someone who hasn't followed news closely : what is the difference between Kill Team and Shadow War ? At first (very basic) glance I'm wondering why there are two skirmish 40k games.
Anf wtf is this shit with selling a Shadow War box with fig and replacing that with a Shadow War box without figs ? Unless I'm mistaken I could swear I had kept a link (that now don't work) to a 100€ box with rules, figs and some scenery, but now GW is selling some 132€ box with rules and scenery only ?

Kill Team is basically 40K with a slightly modified points system to pair it down to a skirmish game with an emphasis on competitive play.

SW:A is using the Necromunda system, which was built as a skirmish game from the start with a heavy emphasis on narrative campaign play.

Two different rulesets, one large scale wargame rules used in a skirmish setting and one actual skirmish game that just happens to use 40K models. Although, with 8th Edition, it looks like Kill Team and SW:A will likely be moving a little closer together.

The original box was a limited release and was at a steep discount (as most of their starter boxes are). The new box isn't actually a box. It's just packaging up the rule book and two terrain pieces (that are now all sold separately at full price) bundled together without any discount.

 

[Ohnonono]

The new book will include all the factions introduced so far, which kind of irks me. I have to use the book and a pdf. At the very least, they should include scouts/guard/orks in the pdf so all factions are together.

I did not buy the original box, but I would totally be there with you. That is very annoying.

 

[BattleMonkey]

Kill Team is basically 40K with a slightly modified points system to pair it down to a skirmish game with an emphasis on competitive play.

SW:A is using the Necromunda system, which was built as a skirmish game from the start with a heavy emphasis on narrative campaign play.

Two different rulesets, one large scale wargame rules used in a skirmish setting and one actual skirmish game that just happens to use 40K models. Although, with 8th Edition, it looks like Kill Team and SW:A will likely be moving a little closer together.

The original box was a limited release and was at a steep discount (as most of their starter boxes are). The new box isn't actually a box. It's just packaging up the rule book and two terrain pieces (that are now all sold separately at full price) bundled together without any discount.

If they are going the way of AoS, Killteam will likely be no more since the game will support any size games.

 

[SillyEskimo]

BA Scout Sgt and test model so far. Still going for that dark, vampire-theme for my Blood Angels. I am really enjoying painting a theme so differently. The downside is there is nothing to look at to copy and see if I'm painting it "right". Each one is its own little experiment, which is both good and bad.

 

[Klendathu Club Owner]

Hi guys, been reading the thread a lot. Would like to get into a tabletop game myself and was wondering if you could recommend a skirmish game that does not recommend a ton of miniatures and with sort of easy-to-understand rules. Doesn't really matter if it's Sci-Fi or Fantasy. Have heard good things about Warmachine. Also interested in 2016 Blood Bowl.
Also interested in Warhammer 40k, but I guess it wouldn't be the best moment to jump in as the rules will be revised soon. Any recommendations are welcome.

 

[Brakke]

Full-size competitive Warmachine lists can have as few as ~15 models (or even like 5 in some extreme cases) or as many as 60+. It varies by faction and list style, so if that's the way you wanna go make sure you're buying into a lower model-count Faction (Circle, Legion, sometimes Khador, Gatormen, Dwarves, maybe Trolls come to mind).

The core rules aren't too complicated but there are a ton of model-specific rules and some wild interactions. So getting from zero to playing is fast, and playing to competent isn't too bad, but competent to expert is a long climb. If you can get in at the same time as a friend or through a "Journeyman League" kind of progression style at a store, you won't hit that steep expert wall too early.

 

[NEO0MJ]

Man, I fucked up. Does anyone have an idea of where I went wrong with the paint job?

Should I have not used gray primer? Did I make the paint too thin? Maybe it was wrong to use paint thinner instead of water? The paints were also kinda old.

 

[Android18a]

The colour of primer shouldn't affect the paintjob finish, what brand of primer did you use? Also what paints? At least you did it on just the one model to start - there's ways to strip the paint off if you google around too so it's not the end of the world

Let us know what you used and we can see if anything seems off. It seems your paint has a slightly gritty texture?

 

[NEO0MJ]

Primer used was Marabu universal primer. Looking it now that might have been the first problem as it doesn't seem to be aimed at plastic.
I used tamiya acrylic colors but the place I bought them from has been carrying the same stock for years so I don't know, could age have effected them?
I used tamiya acrylic thinner to thin the paint.

 

[Android18a]

Finished my Changeling!

Oh, and not sure but it seems maybe the primer wasn't suited to acrylics.

 

[Palmer_v1]

Hi guys, been reading the thread a lot. Would like to get into a tabletop game myself and was wondering if you could recommend a skirmish game that does not recommend a ton of miniatures and with sort of easy-to-understand rules. Doesn't really matter if it's Sci-Fi or Fantasy. Have heard good things about Warmachine. Also interested in 2016 Blood Bowl.
Also interested in Warhammer 40k, but I guess it wouldn't be the best moment to jump in as the rules will be revised soon. Any recommendations are welcome.

Do you know what gets played locally where you live? All of our suggestions won't help if nobody plays the game you want.

Edit:

I'm into Batman myself right now, which has a hard cap of 12 models per side. Guildball also caps at 6 per team, and I know Infinity and malifaux always run on the low end for model counts.

Warmachine is in the midrange. You can play smaller lists but on average, I'd say you'll have 20-25 models per side. Some forces want to spam a lot of stuff, and some prefer to have a few elite models.

Blood Bowl is also capped at like 10-11 people per team, but that's honestly more of a board game with a big hobby aspect. The way it plays doesn't feel like a miniatures game to me.

 

[PittaGAF]

Not sure if this is the right place (unsure between this thread and the more general boardgames one) but....I celebrated tabletop day with a GLORIOUS final quest of Silver Tower (now fully painted by myself, a year later, my first experience).
It was incredibly epic, hands down my favorite boardgame,

Today, my Darkoath Chieftain Crom the Barbarian, fully geared and skilled after countless quests, was simply UNSTOPPABLE.

 

[Leunam]

Hell yeah this is the right place to share this. Great work on those minis.

 

[War Peaceman]

That Darkoath Chieftain is one of GW's best models, imo. You've done a good job with it too!

 

[SillyEskimo]

Further progress on my Scout kill team Sgt. Lots of little things to clean up/improve, but as a proof of concept I'm happy with him and look forward to seeing the team all together! I'm pretty sure I can knock put the other 4 in one sitting.

 

[Little Old Man]

Is it bad that I really want the Grombindal's 40th anniversary mini?

Further progress on my Scout kill team Sgt. Lots of little things to clean up/improve, but as a proof of concept I'm happy with him and look forward to seeing the team all together! I'm pretty sure I can knock put the other 4 in one sitting.

Coming along really nicely! How did you achieve the rust effect on the base?

 

[SillyEskimo]

Bases were so easy to do. I'm happy you pointed them out since it was my very first attempt at the effect and its one of those scenarios where I did it so I'm not sure others see what I was going for lol.

Primed black.

Heavy dry rush of darkest silver.

Black wash, its ok to pool a bit since it adds variation and looks oily in the end result.

Paint dark brown splotches at random.

Highlight the brown with orange. One coat for light rust, 2-3 coats for thicker rust. Vary this over the brown.thicker in spots, thinner in others.

Very light drybrush with your lightest silver, but do it sloppily and not uniform.

Using this method, I painted up 5 bases in less than 10 minutes. Its waiting for the wash to dry that takes the most time.

I just looked at pictures of rusty diamond plate and chose my paints from there.

 

[SillyEskimo]

Reinforcements incoming!

 

[Leunam]

Beautiful reds.

 

[SillyEskimo]

Bolter Scouts painted up to Sgt standard. 2 snipers to go up to this standard, and then fine details & decals are all that's left. The terrain is a work in progress, FYI. I'll have 5 Scout left o build and paint after this, and it will be a Heavy Bolter, 2 close combat scouts, and either another bolter or sniper. I haven't decided which. I'll actually be moving on to Tyranids or Orks after these 5 are complete but I'm thinking I'll need some Scouts ready for recruitment once we actually start playing!

 

[Android18a]

Scouts are coming on nicely!
Oh, I love that old scenery from the 3rd edition starter set. Yet more stuff I wish I still had...

I finished up on my Kharadron Admiral

 

[SillyEskimo]

He looks great. Man, they really are Squats in spirit!

Yeah, that old scenery was super solid stuff.

 

[SillyEskimo]

So close to finishing off my last 2 scouts but I keep getting interrupted. We're going out tonight, so the entire squad will be 100% complete tomorrow.

I'm also working on another scout list, which is a bit more lean. Still not sure if I will do more scouts or go on to another kill team once my first 5 are done. Maybe just 3 more? A heavy bolter and 2 melee? Hmmmm

 

[SillyEskimo]

Squad pretty much complete. Fine details, a few transfers, and a hard coat is all that remains. Super happy with the results. I added shrouds to the bolters to make them look a little more stealthy/scouty. I'm glad I did because it really helped tie the whole squad together.

Tyranid Warriors are next. I planned a squad of 3 out last night and looked over my sprues to see what I owned.

 

[StaffyManasse]

Can't wait to see the eskimonids!

 

[Android18a]

Great stuff Eskimo

I've been working on a Dreadnought for my Dark Angels deathwing today, the body is done and I've got to start on the arms next...

 

[SillyEskimo]

Love the light to dark green fade on the front.

Are you considering 8th edition when painting, or are you just doing your thing assuming it will work as you envision in the game? Or, do you not really care (which is where I fall!).

 

[BattleMonkey]

Just got Shadow War... kinda disappointed that it doesn't support regular Space Marines as a faction? Got to use scouts? I dont have any scouts Almost every list for Shadow War supports at least the basic grunt troop type models for use in the game, but to not have tactical marines as a choice is real stupid especially with Chaos Marines and Grey Knights being allowed as model choices.

 

[SillyEskimo]

Just got Shadow War... kinda disappointed that it doesn't support regular Space Marines as a faction? Got to use scouts? I dont have any scouts Almost every list for Shadow War supports at least the basic grunt troop type models for use in the game, but to not have tactical marines as a choice is real stupid especially with Chaos Marines and Grey Knights being allowed as model choices.

If someone only had space marine models to play with, I would let them proxy as scouts, no problem. For me personally, it would be an excuse to go buy and paint some new models. Thats my #1 reason for buying Shadow Wars anyway.

Looking the rules over, it would be pretty easy to come up with your own points and rules for full space marines though. Use the chaos list as a jumping off point and go from there.

 

[Android18a]

Love the light to dark green fade on the front.

Are you considering 8th edition when painting, or are you just doing your thing assuming it will work as you envision in the game? Or, do you not really care (which is where I fall!).

Although 8th will probably get me playing 40k again, I largely just paint what I want to. Or what I've got.

I very, very rarely paint to fill a slot in a list or to fill a gap in my army unless that also happens to be a mini or unit I've got the urge to take a brush to. I'm absolutely a painter first and a gamer.... third or fourth.

 

[Nazo]

Picked up the Start Collection Space Marines box and am soon going to be working on my homebrew chapter that has a Mad Max motif to them and I was going to do a black a chrome scheme for them. The problem I face though is GW doesn't have any chrome paint. So I was wondering. Does anyone have a good alternative paint? or maybe a combination of citadel paints to get my desired effect?

I had toyed with the idea of hitting them with some leadbelcher with a bright highlight of stormhost silver and then finally add a coat of 'Ard Coat to get it to get it all shiny and chrome.

Edit: Also, how does one make their own transfer sheets? My Chapter's Badge is slightly too complicated (and I'm not good enough) to paint by hand.

 

[Faiz]

How chrome are you wanting? Do you have a want that reflective mirror-like chrome? If so you are pretty out of luck as far as brush on acrylics. Vallejo has a nice bright silver called chrome but doesn't have that mirror like finish. Vallejo Liquid Silver from the Liquid Gold line would be closer but still not mirror like, but that's an alcohol based paint and can be difficult to work with.

There may be an enamel or something used more in the modeling world that's closer but I'm not really up to date with what goes on in scale modeling these days. Unless you are really set on a mirror like finish I would just go with the brightest silver you can easily find.