Thats not right, check your heatsink mount.
It's not loose or anything, I pushed it down and it didn't budge so it seems okay. It's apparently a common problem with fx processors and standard fans.
Thats not right, check your heatsink mount.
No, that's fine.Is sustaining 85c under full load on my GPU danger territory? Titanfall is really working my 560ti.
Got my EVGA SLI pro bridge:
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Looks pretty slick.
Just for curiosity, what score do you got at 3dmark xtreme with those?
I score 9200 with 2 290x at stock (not really stock because they are 290x Tri-X that are factory overclocked but not that much), but i could have got two 780ti instead.
(Please dont be alot higher so idont have buyers remorse)
I actually haven't had a lot of time to mess around with them due to work and other stuff. Haven't even OC'd them yet. Only bench I ran was Heaven 4.0 when I first got them a few weeks ago:
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Will run Heaven later even thou Nvidia trounces AMD in this benchmark.
If you're wanting to compare, just keep in mind I'm at 2560x1600
Yup.Tech support question: my PC is locking up randomly. Literally just comes to a halt, no blue screen or anything even after a ten minute wait. Happens whether just running Chrome or a game or anything. Was happening after a few hours of use but today it would happen within ten minutes of booting up. If I hard reset I can start-up just fine. Now, I am running Windows Memory Diagnostic in the "Extended" test which I know takes much longer but is more thorough, I believe. If that turns up negative, what's the next test?
One time in the past week I walked away and came back to my PC attempting to reboot (I guess it crashed while I was away), but stating it could not find a boot drive. I tried to proceed anyway and it hung up at the Asrock splash screen; after a hard reset it booted up just fine. I have a sinking feeling it is my OS SSD that is dyong, so I am not sure how to test that if so. It is an OCZ Vertex 2 40 GB.
Running Windows 7 64-bit. Any advice is appreciated.
Siiiiiiiiick.Got my EVGA SLI pro bridge:
Looks pretty slick.
I'm honestly stuck between thinking they're going to keep steadily declining and possibly going above £100 again due to the pricing of the competition. The Samsung 830 series 256gb shot up rapidly after bottoming out around £120, and it's taken the 840 evo (which is roughly equivalent) a long time to finally fall to that same price point.Prices on that M500 line having been steadily going down over the past month or two. It's almost to the point where I'm wondering whether they're using lesser NAND. Just my paranoia though, I'm sure they're just as good as they were.
I'm not quite in the position to build my PC yet so I won't be picking one of these up (probably), but that's a great deal.
I had the V700, which seems to be a prototype in a lot of ways, to the A51.Anyone here have experience with the Lian Li PC A51 case? It looks pretty good but idk about that reverse airflow tech
Damnit! My phone doesnt let me link the page for some reason. Please let me know though as Im strongly considering this case over the fractal R4
That's totally standard.I've had this problem for a while now and I'm wondering if anyone knows if there's a way to fix it. I have a 2TB external drive that will go into a sleep mode after not being used for so long. You can't disable this "feature". So, the problem is, whenever the drive has to be accessed, seemingly at random or otherwise, it hitches my OS for a second. Doesn't seem to affect games, but things like iTunes, which access a lot of content on that drive will hitch. If the external is constantly in use, there is no issue.
Why does it hitch up my OS? It will make things like videos on websites stop for a second as well. Could flash be accessing this drive for some reason?
Yup.
Siiiiiiiiick.
I've had this problem for a while now and I'm wondering if anyone knows if there's a way to fix it. I have a 2TB external drive that will go into a sleep mode after not being used for so long. You can't disable this "feature". So, the problem is, whenever the drive has to be accessed, seemingly at random or otherwise, it hitches my OS for a second. Doesn't seem to affect games, but things like iTunes, which access a lot of content on that drive will hitch. If the external is constantly in use, there is no issue.
Why does it hitch up my OS? It will make things like videos on websites stop for a second as well. Could flash be accessing this drive for some reason?
I had the V700, which seems to be a prototype in a lot of ways, to the A51.
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I'd say the major thing you'd be worried about is using a reference GPU. That'd blow hot air right out the back and it would rise into the intake. With a non-reference GPU, it would be solid.
You also lose the ability to run two cards, as the heatsink takes up the space where a second big card would go. Mine had the reverse issue of blowing hot air out of the PSU and would intake it through the front. That's probably why they switched the direction of airflow with the A51.
Compared to the R4, the R4 is going to be quieter and probably cooler. The A51 will be more compact and have that Lian Li aluminum quality, which is no small thing, IMO.
Because it sounds like your OS drive could be failing. Those are all extremely common symptoms. Given that it's an older SSD, that's a second, weaker, point of reference.Why "Yup"? Just because it is a Vertex 2 or because it actually sounds like it could be my OS drive failing based on the symptoms? I know V2s are shitty, but mine has already exceeded my expectations some how. Is there a way to run a diagnostic on the drive?
Those were done by Psychosleeve. There's another guy that does an arguably better job, Ben at PrometheanMutations. Tell him Michael Kenyon sent you.Where'd you get those red/white individually sleeved cables from or did you do them yourself?
Was thinking about putting some in my case but haven't settled on colors yet.
Im probably never gonna SLI but the reference card bit is very disappointingI had the V700, which seems to be a prototype in a lot of ways, to the A51.
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I'd say the major thing you'd be worried about is using a reference GPU. That'd blow hot air right out the back and it would rise into the intake. With a non-reference GPU, it would be solid.
You also lose the ability to run two cards, as the heatsink takes up the space where a second big card would go. Mine had the reverse issue of blowing hot air out of the PSU and would intake it through the front. That's probably why they switched the direction of airflow with the A51.
Compared to the R4, the R4 is going to be quieter and probably cooler. The A51 will be more compact and have that Lian Li aluminum quality, which is no small thing, IMO.
Alright Gaf I have a problem with the two monitors i just bought.
I bought 2 x Asus VN248. When I connect both monitors together, I get an "out of range" thing and I can't see anything on both of the monitors. But when I only connect one monitor, the monitor is working. One of the monitor is also suffering from black bars around the screen, even though it's set to the native resolution. I tried downloading to the latest AMD driver but didn't work. Also tried uninstall the driver and reinstall it back but still would'nt not work. Anyone know what the problem is? Could it be the monitor and not the driver?
You could get a cheaper case and drop the DVD drive. Look for a better PSU, like the Antec BP550 or EVGA Bronze 500W.My brother wants to build a new pc so I'm trying to put together a parts list for him. It just needs to be entry-level performance wise, but with the capability of upgrading in the future. He won't be overclocking and will be gaming at sub-1080p for a while (at least another year). Anyway here's the list I put together. He was hoping to be in the $600-800 range, anywhere I can cut costs? Any suggestions will be helpful.
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant / Benchmarks
CPU: Intel Core i5-4430 3.0GHz Quad-Core Processor ($201.98 @ Newegg Canada)
Motherboard: MSI H81M-P33 Micro ATX LGA1150 Motherboard ($62.98 @ Newegg Canada)
Memory: G.Skill Ares Series 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory ($90.98 @ Newegg Canada)
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($77.98 @ Newegg Canada)
Video Card: MSI GeForce GTX 750 Ti 2GB Video Card ($184.98 @ Newegg Canada)
Case: Corsair 350D Window MicroATX Mid Tower Case ($114.98 @ Newegg Canada)
Power Supply: Corsair CX 430W 80+ Bronze Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply ($44.98 @ Newegg Canada)
Optical Drive: Asus DRW-24B1ST/BLK/B/AS DVD/CD Writer ($26.98 @ Newegg Canada)
Total: $795.84
(Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available.)
(Generated by PCPartPicker 2014-03-17 14:23 EDT-0400)
Don't use VGA use HDMI and check the resolution, if you are sending a signal bigger than the monitor then it won't show the image.
Because it sounds like your OS drive could be failing. Those are all extremely common symptoms. Given that it's an older SSD, that's a second, weaker, point of reference.
My brother wants to build a new pc so I'm trying to put together a parts list for him. It just needs to be entry-level performance wise, but with the capability of upgrading in the future. He won't be overclocking and will be gaming at sub-1080p for a while (at least another year). Anyway here's the list I put together. He was hoping to be in the $600-800 range, anywhere I can cut costs? Any suggestions will be helpful.
No prob! And yeah, just reinstall windows on a new SSD.Thank you for the input, sincerely. What is the best way to proceed in terms of putting a new SSD in there with Windows? I have nothing on the dying drive that I care about recovering, so should I simply disconnect it then connect a new SSD and install Windows?
Don't buy a cheap PSU when you're looking to power $800-1000 in videocards. Get something like a Coolermaster V700, Seasonic 750/760, Corsair AX760/760i, or XFX Pro Series 750.Is there anything horribly wrong with the Corsair CX750M?
A friend is looking to build a PC soon and I'm thinking of using this as it would be ready to SLI 770s/780s in the future if he decides to go that route. Other suggestions around this price point are welcome!
Yeah, there's internal Bluetooth cards, many of which are paired with a WiFi adapter.Came to think about Bluetooth, is it possible to install one internally?
Btw, I'm getting a new GTX 780 on Thursday!
Yes, fill out the OP bullet point list.
Is there anything horribly wrong with the Corsair CX750M?
A friend is looking to build a PC soon and I'm thinking of using this as it would be ready to SLI 770s/780s in the future if he decides to go that route. Other suggestions around this price point are welcome!
I feared as much. It's just me trying to keep the build under budget, but ready for a future upgrade to SLI.Don't buy a cheap PSU when you're looking to power $800-1000 in videocards. Get something like a Coolermaster V700, Seasonic 750/760, Corsair AX760/760i, or XFX Pro Series 750.
The CX series is not great at all.
PCPartPicker part list: http://pcpartpicker.com/p/3bx1G
CPU: Intel Core i7-4930K 3.4GHz 6-Core Processor ($529.99 @ Micro Center)
CPU Cooler: Intel BXRTS2011AC CPU Cooler ($20.50 @ Amazon)
Thermal Compound: Arctic Cooling MX4 20g Thermal Paste ($18.98 @ OutletPC)
Motherboard: Asus P9X79 LE ATX LGA2011 Motherboard ($227.99 @ Amazon)
Memory: Kingston HyperX 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR3-1600 Memory ($159.74 @ Amazon)
Storage: Kingston SSDNow V300 Series 120GB 2.5" Solid State Disk ($66.98 @ Newegg)
Storage: Seagate Barracuda 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($54.98 @ OutletPC)
Video Card: Gigabyte GeForce GTX 780 Ti 3GB Video Card ($720.73 @ Amazon)
Case: Rosewill BlackHawk ATX Mid Tower Case ($69.99 @ Newegg)
Power Supply: Corsair RM 650W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($119.33 @ OutletPC)
Optical Drive: Asus DRW-24B1ST/BLK/B/AS DVD/CD Writer ($19.98 @ OutletPC)
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 8.1 Pro - 64-bit (OEM) (64-bit) ($137.97 @ OutletPC)
Total: $2147.16 works out about £1318.05
I want it to be future proof and up-gradable to upto 3 years, but is there any areas i can cut costs down? Any suggestions will be helpful.
IMO, don't ever build for "maybe future SLI", as when that time comes around, there's probably a better single GPU to buy, which is almost always a better choice. Sell the current card for what you can get, and upgrade to the single best GPU possible.I feared as much. It's just me trying to keep the build under budget, but ready for a future upgrade to SLI.
Going for my afternoon run, I'll get to this when I get back.PCPartPicker part list: http://pcpartpicker.com/p/3bx1G
CPU: Intel Core i7-4930K 3.4GHz 6-Core Processor ($529.99 @ Micro Center)
CPU Cooler: Intel BXRTS2011AC CPU Cooler ($20.50 @ Amazon)
Thermal Compound: Arctic Cooling MX4 20g Thermal Paste ($18.98 @ OutletPC)
Motherboard: Asus P9X79 LE ATX LGA2011 Motherboard ($227.99 @ Amazon)
Memory: Kingston HyperX 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR3-1600 Memory ($159.74 @ Amazon)
Storage: Kingston SSDNow V300 Series 120GB 2.5" Solid State Disk ($66.98 @ Newegg)
Storage: Seagate Barracuda 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($54.98 @ OutletPC)
Video Card: Gigabyte GeForce GTX 780 Ti 3GB Video Card ($720.73 @ Amazon)
Case: Rosewill BlackHawk ATX Mid Tower Case ($69.99 @ Newegg)
Power Supply: Corsair RM 650W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($119.33 @ OutletPC)
Optical Drive: Asus DRW-24B1ST/BLK/B/AS DVD/CD Writer ($19.98 @ OutletPC)
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 8.1 Pro - 64-bit (OEM) (64-bit) ($137.97 @ OutletPC)
Total: $2147.16 works out about £1318.05
I want it to be future proof and up-gradable to upto 3 years, but is there any areas i can cut costs down? Any suggestions will be helpful.
what kind of monitor? What do you want out of gaming? cutting corners, downgrade from 780ti to 780 for about 10% less performance but save $200
IMO, don't ever build for "maybe future SLI", as when that time comes around, there's probably a better single GPU to buy, which is almost always a better choice. Sell the current card for what you can get, and upgrade to the single best GPU possible.
While I do agree with this point, it's a request that has been made of me!Nobody does future SLI. SLI now or never because in a few months Maxwell will drop and it would be better to have the highest end of that.
I already have a monitor, I'll be mainly doing 3D, animation and video editing work.
hey guys, so i built my 1st pc back in 2007
Intel Core 2 Duo E6400 Conroe 2.13GHz LGA 775 65W Dual-Core Processor BX80557E6400
Western Digital Caviar SE WD2500JS 250GB 7200 RPM 8MB Cache SATA 3.0Gb/s 3.5" Hard Drive Bare Drive
G.SKILL 2GB (2 x 1GB) 240-Pin DDR2 SDRAM DDR2 800 (PC2 6400) Dual Channel Kit Desktop Memory Model F2-6400CL5D-
EVGA 640-P2-N821-AR GeForce 8800 GTS 640MB 320-Bit GDDR3 PCI Express x16 HDCP Ready SLI Support Video Card
ASUS P5B-E LGA 775 Intel P965 Express ATX Intel Motherboard
OCZ GameXStream OCZ600GXSSLI 600W ATX12V SLI Certified CrossFire Ready Active PFC Power Supply
i desperately need an upgrade, whats the cheapest route i can go that will get me xbone/ps4 quality graphics (1080p@60fps)?? ive been out of the loop for a while.. but i DID purchase a laptop recently with 755m SLI... i just want to beef up my desktop as well.. again at lowest possible cost
i already have
case (antec 900)
keyboard
Mouse,
OS