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[NamelessMonk]

Can someone please help me with my Logitech G933 headset? Today it stopped outputing sound and I don't know how to fix it. The PC detects it as a device, and it pops up in Logitech software however it tells me to turn it on even though it is. I've reinstalled the software dozens of times, deleted the drivers and reinstalled them, tried forcing an update though command prompt and nothing works. When I move the volume dial on the headset I hear beeps so the audio does work, I just don't get any from my PC.

Please help.

Maybe there's something wrong with the plugin to the computer. Have you tried using your headset with maybe your phone (I'm assuming it's a 3.5mm jack) or another computer (laptop maybe)?

If it's still broken then maybe it's a problem with your computer's sound driver (not the logitech driver). Try reinstalling them.

If all else fails then I think you'll need to call Logitech support, sorry.

 

[Celcius]

I tried overclocking. It seems pretty easy but when I did it keeps giving error like nope, reverting back to what settings worked last. I'm only OCing my CPU to 4.5 so I don't see why it's not stable considering I have a liquid cooler and everything is overall cool anyway. I must be doing something wrong.

I had some spare time so went ahead and took some screenshots of my bios settings: http://imgur.com/a/lOHln
These are my 24/7 settings for 4.7ghz. We've got the same cpu & ram but I have a different motherboard (Maximus IX Hero). However, many of the settings should still carry over (some settings may have a slightly different name on your MSI mobo but would be the same thing). The only thing to keep in mind is that every cpu is different so there's no guarantee my settings will be stable on your machine but hopefully this helps getting started.

Currently running an i5 3570k system I built in 2012 with 16 gigs of ram, a samsung 840 Evo SSD, a WD Black 1 terabyte and a HD7870 Radeon and it's starting to show it's age a bit. The system is not just for gaming, it's a work computer I use daily for professional photoshop and flash work.

But the issue is, a system I would upgrade to is going to cost me at least 1800 CDN plus taxes. If I went to a 7700K, that would be easily at 2000 before taxes. Our dollar is killing me, considering I built the previous computer for under 1000 CDN.

https://ca.pcpartpicker.com/list/3ZvDFd

How much of a performance gain would I see moving from my system to something like that? I would transfer the Samsung 840 to a scratch disk for photoshop and the Black for file storage with the M2 drive as my boot drive.

The other option is put a new graphics card in it, maybe get a new case because mine is falling apart (failing USB slots, etc) and save some money for now with a stop-gap upgrade.

Thoughts?

Going from i5 3570k -> i7 7700k and 2GB Radeon 7870 -> 6GB GTX 1060 should show some nice (noticeable) gains.
Your plan of upgrading the videocard & case now and then doing the rest of the system later sounds solid... I would just make sure that your current cpu is overclocked, as that would make a big difference in holding you over until you upgrade.

 

[stb]

Anyone have feelings about EVGA SuperNOVA 650 P2 for my power supply?

It's more wattage than I need (7700k/1060), but it seems like the higher wattage supplies are able to passively cool for longer and/or run the fan at half speed to keep the noise down up into reasonable non-stress-test temps. This particular one looks like it'll stay passive to 55c, then half-voltage to 65c, and tops out <25db at full voltage.

I didn't want to spend $120 on a PSU, but ones in the $80 range push 35db, which I'm not thrilled about.

 

[Luke_Wal]

PC-Gaf, I'm placing my entire faith in you.

I've never built a PC before, but I'm looking for something to play 1080p/60 on games like Overwatch or Skyrim or XCOM 2 with mods. Basically, I want the freedom of PC gaming. I'm currently fielding an offer on the B/S/T thread and need feedback:

Here's the offer:
MSI Radeon RX 470 ARMOR OC 4GB
Intel Pentium G4560 3.5ghz Dual Core
G.skill 1x8GB DDR4-2400 RAM
2TB Hard drive (brand not specified)
Power supply (also not specified)
$300

Is this a good deal? From what I understand, all I would need left would be a case, motherboard, and a copy of Windows, right? What would be good options for a case or a motherboard? I have no idea what I'm doing here. The GPU looks like it has fans built into it - do I need some additional type of cooling solution?

 

[Vipu]

So I've got the following spec:

4790k @4.8ghz w/ NZXT X61 liquid cooling
EVGA GTX 1080 Ti Hybrid liquid cooling
16GB DDR3 1866mhz CL8 RAM
1TB Samsung EVO 840 SSD
Windows 10

Anything lacking here that would give a boost to performance? I was contemplating going for 2400mhz RAM, but I'm not sure if it'd be worth it, especially considering my 1866mhz is CL8 and I can't find any 2400mhz RAM better than CL10.

Screen?

 

[Vipu]

Woah, it sounds like you're increasing the system bus from 100mhz from 150mhz.. no wonder the system didn't like it. When overclocking a kaby lake system you should leave the system bus at 100mhz and then increase the speed of the processor by increasing the cpu multiplier. Most motherboards don't like it when you increase the system bus above 100mhz.

[cpu multiplier] x [system bus] = cpu speed
45 x 100 = 4500 mhz

If the cpu multiplier was left at stock (42) and the bus was changed to 150mhz then that would have been 42 x 150 = 6300mhz.

Try setting the cpu vcore (voltage) to 1.28v and then the cpu multiplier (also known as core ratio) to 45 for all cores, and then changing the bus speed back to 100.
Before overclocking though I'd highly recommend taking a read through those two guides first.
One other thing I'd like to mention is Load Line Calibration (LLC). When the cpu is under load/stress then the voltage drops a bit (it's designed this way). There's a setting in your bios to adjust the level of LLC and this will control how much the system adds to the cpu voltage under load to counter the voltage drop. On the lowest setting it will basically do nothing and you'll see the cpu voltage drop some under load, while on the highest setting it will add so much voltage that the cpu voltage will actually go up some under load. Most people use a setting in the middle to try to keep the voltage as steady as possible between load and idle.

C-states lower the cpu speed & voltage when the system is idle... when you're in the process of trying to find your stable overclock then it's best to leave things running at a constant speed and disable c states. You can find more info here: http://www.hardwaresecrets.com/ever...ow-about-the-cpu-c-states-power-saving-modes/

If you have any questions though just ask and any of us can jump in to answer / explain.
Even though you've got an MSI motherboard and I've got Asus, if you want I can upload screenshots of my bios settings (overclocked to 4.7ghz) and then you could try to use it as a starting point & adjust what you like.

Some useful tools for the overclocking process:
CPU-Z for seeing cpu speed, ram speed, and general system info: http://www.cpuid.com/softwares/cpu-z.html
RealTemp for seeing cpu temperatures: https://www.techpowerup.com/realtemp/
Prime95 for stress testing: http://www.mersenne.org/ftp_root/gimps/p95v2810.win64.zip (utilizes avx and fma3 instruction sets to really stress the cpu... I run the blend test)
RealBench for stress testing: http://dlcdnmkt.asus.com/rog/RealBench_v2.54.zip?_ga=1.134572529.1664667219.1491950447 (uses avx instructions but not nearly as stressful)

edit: Also if you set your RAM to XMP mode then it should automatically set the speed and timings for you... there should be a setting for it.

Sorry to steal this but can I start using C-states without LCC and is it risky to change C-states to see what is good for me?
Should I ever touch LCC or should I just leave where it is at?
[email protected] 1.26v
Asus Strix Z270F mobo

 

[JonnyDBrit]

PC-Gaf, I'm placing my entire faith in you.

I've never built a PC before, but I'm looking for something to play 1080p/60 on games like Overwatch or Skyrim or XCOM 2 with mods. Basically, I want the freedom of PC gaming. I'm currently fielding an offer on the B/S/T thread and need feedback:

Here's the offer:
MSI Radeon RX 470 ARMOR OC 4GB
Intel Pentium G4560 3.5ghz Dual Core
G.skill 1x8GB DDR4-2400 RAM
2TB Hard drive (brand not specified)
Power supply (also not specified)
$300

Is this a good deal? From what I understand, all I would need left would be a case, motherboard, and a copy of Windows, right? What would be good options for a case or a motherboard? I have no idea what I'm doing here. The GPU looks like it has fans built into it - do I need some additional type of cooling solution?

I should probably take some responsibility for this one, given I recommended it.

Best to ask for specification on the power supply, though given the poster's original intent, I can't imagine it being lacking for your needs. Putting it together in PCPartPicker, you'd be saving around 80-100 dollars, depending on other factors. Case will depend partially on motherboard - if you go for a microATX board, you can get a smaller case, for example. Board wise I'd recommend the Gigabyte GA-B250M-DS3H as a relatively cheap option. Cooling wise since you wouldn't be overclocking on a pentium you should be just fine with its stock cooler, and the GPU should be fairly fine even if you were to overclock that.

 

[thenexus6]

Anyway to see if my Motherboard is compatible with the new Ryzen CPUs?

Gigabyte GA-B150M-D3H Socket LGA1151

http://uk.gigabyte.com/Motherboard/GA-B150M-D3H-rev-10#ov

 

[Luke_Wal]

I should probably take some responsibility for this one, given I recommended it.

Best to ask for specification on the power supply, though given the poster's original intent, I can't imagine it being lacking for your needs. Putting it together in PCPartPicker, you'd be saving around 80-100 dollars, depending on other factors. Case will depend partially on motherboard - if you go for a microATX board, you can get a smaller case, for example. Board wise I'd recommend the Gigabyte GA-B250M-DS3H as a relatively cheap option. Cooling wise since you wouldn't be overclocking on a pentium you should be just fine with its stock cooler, and the GPU should be fairly fine even if you were to overclock that.

It's a Corsair CXM 450W 80+ Bronze Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply. Are there any advantages or disadvantages to going micro ATX over regular ATX? Is a regular ATX more upgradeable in the future or something?

 

[Harl3]

Anyway to see if my Motherboard is compatible with the new Ryzen CPUs?

Gigabyte GA-B150M-D3H Socket LGA1151

http://uk.gigabyte.com/Motherboard/GA-B150M-D3H-rev-10#ov

You need a motherboard with an socket AM4.

Your motherboard only works with intel processors (skylake and kabylake).

 

[Celcius]

Sorry to steal this but can I start using C-states without LCC and is it risky to change C-states to see what is good for me?
Should I ever touch LCC or should I just leave where it is at?
[email protected] 1.26v
Asus Strix Z270F mobo

hmm, on my personal machines I always use a manual voltage and speed to run my cpu at a constant frequency & voltage even after find my stable overclocks. However, if you want to conserve power then you can try using c-states with an offset voltage: https://rog.asus.com/forum/showthread.php?2162-Overclocking-Using-Offset-Mode-for-CPU-Core-Voltage
Gotta run to work now but I'd recommending googling "cpu offset voltage". I still think you'll want to use LLC though... you'll have to do a little experimenting to see how your cpu behaves in real time with the changing frequency & voltage.
Maybe others can chime in on this one as well.

 

[Mozendo]

It's a Corsair CXM 450W 80+ Bronze Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply. Are there any advantages or disadvantages to going micro ATX over regular ATX? Is a regular ATX more upgradeable in the future or something?

Micro ATX is smaller motherboard form factor that has less PCI, PCI Express x1, and PCI Express x16 slots. In a sense ATX is more upgradeable since you can add more to it, but for most users Micro ATX should be enough especially if you don't plan on doing a multi-graphics card setup.

 

[mintyice]

So I spilled beer all over my keyboard and now it looks like I'm in the market for a new one. Any recommendations?

 

[Luke_Wal]

Micro ATX is smaller motherboard form factor that has less PCI, PCI Express x1, and PCI Express x16 slots. In a sense ATX is more upgradeable since you can add more to it, but for most users Micro ATX should be enough especially if you don't plan on doing a multi-graphics card setup.

This is going to be a dumb question: what would I use PCI/PCI-E slots for? Are things like dedicated network adapters still necessary?

 

[NamelessMonk]

This is going to be a dumb question: what would I use PCI/PCI-E slots for? Are things like dedicated network adapters still necessary?

Some people use them for better audio , and you can still use them for network adapters (but most network adapters can use USBs now). They're also there for the potential of SLI/Crossfire.

Personally, I'm on the mini itx platform and my motherboard came with a network adapter and good audio in the first place, so I didn't need the extra PCI/PCI-E slots. There are also network adapters and Audio Enhancements (like DACs) that can be plugged in via USB. (http://www.ncix.com/category/network-adapters-a8-1004.htm , https://www.cambridgeaudio.com/blog/what-is-a-USB-DAC).

Once again I'm on the mini itx platform, so I don't even have the extra PCI/E slot (Just one that I'm using for my graphics card at the moment) and I'm doing just fine. I'm hoping someone else might be able to chime in more on the downside of less PCI/E slots.

 

[digitalrelic]

Screen?

Acer X34 Predator

 

[gypsie]

Apologies if there is a better place for this but hopefully a simple question for you clever people.

I recently plugged my 4k TV into my PC and was messing around with the settings constantly to get it right but obviously I cocked something up and now cannot get it to display anything.

Does anyone know how to reset the settings for when I plug the HDMI into the TV? It doesn't show up when I just have my monitor plugged in and when i DO plug the TV in my monitor goes black along with the TV.

Everything works fine obviously with when just my monitor is plugged in and it DID work fine on the TV before I cocked around with the settings. I tried to set everything to default in the Nvidia control panel and the windows area but nothing seems to help. I went into safe mode but it seems to remember the display settings for the TV.

If anyone can help i'd be eternally grateful. If there is a better place for this please direct me and I'll delete!

Many thanks

 

[b0bbyJ03]

I ordered the Rockit 88 delidding tool for my 7700K and I'll probably be doing it this weekend but I have a question for the people with experience. I noticed the majority of people delidding are using liquid metal TIMs. I've had some interesting experiences with these, as I used Coollaboratory Liquid Pro on a 3770k (not for delidding, just between the IHS and the heatsink) and after I removed the heatsink (2 years later) it was completely dry and impossible to remove. I had to sand down the top of the IHS and the heatsink as well. What worries me is that if I use liquid metal for the delid and for some reason I have to reapply it in the future then sanding down that part of the processor won't be an option. I was thinking about using MX-4 between the core and the IHS. Anyone have any thoughts on this? Are the temp differences between the liquid metal TIMs and a thermal paste like MX-4 that big or is it just a few degrees? Thanks.

 

[Dave_6]

Been thinking about getting a white case for my 'rebuild' since I have a white desk. Is the S340 Elite a nice quality case? I'd love to get a white tempered glass Evolve if there was one.

 

[Bubba_Sparks]

So I am thinking about buying a new computer. I don't really need one, it is just that I have always wanted to build a crazy system.

Here are the parts I have picked out so far:

CPU: Intel Core i5 7600k
CPU Cooling: Corsair Hydro Series H115i
GPU: ASUS STRIX nVidia GeForce GTX 970 (going to keep GPU until I can buy 4K TV with 4K monitors - Currently have a Panasonic ST60 with two 1080p Dell Monitors)
Motherboard: MSI Z270 SLI PLUS
RAM: G.SKILL Ripjaws V Series 32GB 3000Mhz DDR4
Storage: 2x Samsung 960 EVO M.2 NVMe 250 GB SSD's (Along with a Samsung 840 EVO 120 GB, Samsung 850 EVO 250 GB, Seagate 7200 RPM 2 TB, Samsung 1.5 TB 5400 RPM drives from previous builds)
Power Supply: Corsair RMi Series 750w 80Plus Gold
Case: Corsair SPEC-Alpha Red and Black

So yeah, I'm looking at about ~$1700 CDN with my current build. Anyone recommend anything different?

So I've mad a few adjustments to what I am planning to build. I am now looking at this:

CPU: Intel Core i7 7700k
CPU Cooling: Corsair Hydro Series H115i
GPU: ASUS STRIX nVidia GeForce GTX 970 (going to keep GPU until I can buy 4K TV with 4K monitors - Currently have a Panasonic ST60 with two 1080p Dell Monitors)
Motherboard: ASUS ROG STRIX Z270F
RAM: G.SKILL Trident Z RGB Series 16Gb (2x 8Gb) DDR4 3000 Mhz
Storage: 1x Samsung 960 EVO M.2 NVMe 250 GB SSD's (Along with a Samsung 840 EVO 120 GB, Samsung 850 EVO 250 GB, Seagate 7200 RPM 2 TB, Samsung 1.5 TB 5400 RPM drives from previous builds)
Power Supply: Corsair RMx Series 750w 80Plus Gold
Case: Corsair Crystal 570X

:drool:

The total is about ~$1650 before tax. I think I'll replace the fans included with the water cooler to matching Corsair SP-01 RGB fans. With ASUSs AURA lighting, the G.SKILL RGB ram and the case fans all matched up I think it will look pretty cool. I particularly like the purple colour in the picture above.

 

[thenexus6]

You need a motherboard with an socket AM4.

Your motherboard only works with intel processors (skylake and kabylake).

Gotcha, i'll go i5 then.

 

[Mozendo]

This is going to be a dumb question: what would I use PCI/PCI-E slots for? Are things like dedicated network adapters still necessary?

Along with the ones stated above
Storage for M.2 SSDs, but now motherboards have those
You could add more USB slots (but your motherboard and case should provide plenty already)

That's all that comes to mind, you can easily get by with just using a PCI-E x16 slot for a graphics card.

 

[ColdDeckEd]

I ordered the Rockit 88 delidding tool for my 7700K and I'll probably be doing it this weekend but I have a question for the people with experience. I noticed the majority of people delidding are using liquid metal TIMs. I've had some interesting experiences with these, as I used Coollaboratory Liquid Pro on a 3770k (not for delidding, just between the IHS and the heatsink) and after I removed the heatsink (2 years later) it was completely dry and impossible to remove. I had to sand down the top of the IHS and the heatsink as well. What worries me is that if I use liquid metal for the delid and for some reason I have to reapply it in the future then sanding down that part of the processor won't be an option. I was thinking about using MX-4 between the core and the IHS. Anyone have any thoughts on this? Are the temp differences between the liquid metal TIMs and a thermal paste like MX-4 that big or is it just a few degrees? Thanks.

You'll still get a bit of a temp reduction but it's definitely more with liquid metal. I don't think you'll ever need to reapply it, but I can't say that with 100 percent confidence.

 

[SRG01]

Are most Haswell-compatible heatsinks out there compatible with AM4? I'm thinking of replacing my CPU cooler and overclocking, but I don't want to waste money on two coolers since I'll be upgrading once the next Zen refresh comes out...

 

[digitalrelic]

This is going to be a dumb question: what would I use PCI/PCI-E slots for? Are things like dedicated network adapters still necessary?

I use two of my PCI-E slots. One for a proper sound card that allows for 5.1 audio to my wireless headset, & the other for a wifi adapter that allows for Gigabit Wi-Fi to my AC3100 router.

 

[Harl3]

Gotcha, i'll go i5 then.

If you are going for a 7th gen i5, you will need the new bios update in your motherboard.

 

[SRG01]

Apologies if there is a better place for this but hopefully a simple question for you clever people.

I recently plugged my 4k TV into my PC and was messing around with the settings constantly to get it right but obviously I cocked something up and now cannot get it to display anything.

Does anyone know how to reset the settings for when I plug the HDMI into the TV? It doesn't show up when I just have my monitor plugged in and when i DO plug the TV in my monitor goes black along with the TV.

Everything works fine obviously with when just my monitor is plugged in and it DID work fine on the TV before I cocked around with the settings. I tried to set everything to default in the Nvidia control panel and the windows area but nothing seems to help. I went into safe mode but it seems to remember the display settings for the TV.

If anyone can help i'd be eternally grateful. If there is a better place for this please direct me and I'll delete!

Many thanks

Plug both your monitor and TV into the computer, then try to reconfigure it that way?

 

[gypsie]

Plug both your monitor and TV into the computer, then try to reconfigure it that way?

When they are both plugged in it tries to force the signal to the TV ignoring the monitor so both display nothing.

 

[LordAlu]

When they are both plugged in it tries to force the signal to the TV ignoring the monitor so both display nothing.

If you're running Windows you should be able to press Win + P to switch between displays.

 

[lostsupper]

I ordered the Rockit 88 delidding tool for my 7700K and I'll probably be doing it this weekend but I have a question for the people with experience. I noticed the majority of people delidding are using liquid metal TIMs. I've had some interesting experiences with these, as I used Coollaboratory Liquid Pro on a 3770k (not for delidding, just between the IHS and the heatsink) and after I removed the heatsink (2 years later) it was completely dry and impossible to remove. I had to sand down the top of the IHS and the heatsink as well. What worries me is that if I use liquid metal for the delid and for some reason I have to reapply it in the future then sanding down that part of the processor won't be an option. I was thinking about using MX-4 between the core and the IHS. Anyone have any thoughts on this? Are the temp differences between the liquid metal TIMs and a thermal paste like MX-4 that big or is it just a few degrees? Thanks.

Last summer I parted out a 2013 Ivy build that I had delidded and used Collaborators Pro between the die and IHS. It was exactly the same as when it had been applied three years prior.

I've been using Thermal Grizzly Conductonaut for Skylake and Many. Liquid metal will not harden between the die and IHS.

 

[drhankmccoyphd]

I'm pricing out a new build. Trying to keep this inside a micro-ITX but here's my first pass on PCPP. Not sure the video card and h60 will fit but I'd like to keep the box as small and quiet as within reason. Any help would be appreciated. I was thinking about going for a Ryzen 5 but I don't think I'd see much benefit in photoshop would I? Also came in a little over budget, so trying to trim fat where necessary.

• What country are you in? USA
• What are you using the system for? 1080p gaming for now, possibly VR in the future. Graphic Design (photoshop CS)
• What's your budget? $1300-1400, Windows license, monitors not needed,
• If you’re doing professional work, what software do you need to use? Photoshop CS
• If you're gaming, what is your monitor resolution? most likely single monitor 1080p, but I have triple monitor setup (3 x 1080p)

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: Intel Core i7-7700K 4.2GHz Quad-Core Processor ($338.79 @ SuperBiiz)
CPU Cooler: Corsair H60 54.0 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler ($64.88 @ OutletPC)
Motherboard: Asus Z170I PRO GAMING Mini ITX LGA1151 Motherboard ($151.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Memory: Corsair Vengeance LPX 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3000 Memory ($119.99 @ Amazon)
Storage: Samsung 960 Evo 250GB M.2-2280 Solid State Drive ($129.99 @ B&H)
Storage: Western Digital BLACK SERIES 2TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($123.45 @ SuperBiiz)
Video Card: EVGA GeForce GTX 1070 8GB SC GAMING ACX 3.0 Black Edition Video Card ($374.00 @ Amazon)
Case: Fractal Design Define Nano S Mini ITX Desktop Case ($64.99 @ NCIX US)
Power Supply: Corsair RMx 650W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($111.86 @ Amazon)
Total: $1479.94
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2017-04-12 12:18 EDT-0400

 

[LilJoka]

Didn't know you had to disable all that. All I did was set something from 100 to 150 and changed my ram speed to 3200.

You dont need to disable anything settings like that.

You set the CPU Core Ratio to 45. Leave the bclk at 100Mhz.
That will give 45x100=4500Mhz.

Set the RAM to 2133Mhz to begin with and the VDIMM to 1.22v.

Set the Vcore to Manual mode, and a value of 1.2v.

In the DIgi Power Settings, set the Load Line Calibration to Level 4 (assuming you are on Asus).

That should easily do 4.5Ghz. then youll want to stress test, most are using Realbench nowadays. Monitor temps with CoreTemp/RealTemp.

 

[thenexus6]

If you are going for a 7th gen i5, you will need the new bios update in your motherboard.

Yeah I did that this afternoon, I was way behind on the software haha.

 

[lostsupper]

I'm pricing out a new build. Trying to keep this inside a micro-ITX but here's my first pass on PCPP. Not sure the video card and h60 will fit but I'd like to keep the box as small and quiet as within reason. Any help would be appreciated. I was thinking about going for a Ryzen 5 but I don't think I'd see much benefit in photoshop would I? Also came in a little over budget, so trying to trim fat where necessary.

• What country are you in? USA
• What are you using the system for? 1080p gaming for now, possibly VR in the future. Graphic Design (photoshop CS)
• What's your budget? $1300-1400, Windows license, monitors not needed,
• If you’re doing professional work, what software do you need to use? Photoshop CS
• If you're gaming, what is your monitor resolution? most likely single monitor 1080p, but I have triple monitor setup (3 x 1080p)

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: Intel Core i7-7700K 4.2GHz Quad-Core Processor ($338.79 @ SuperBiiz)
CPU Cooler: Corsair H60 54.0 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler ($64.88 @ OutletPC)
Motherboard: Asus Z170I PRO GAMING Mini ITX LGA1151 Motherboard ($151.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Memory: Corsair Vengeance LPX 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3000 Memory ($119.99 @ Amazon)
Storage: Samsung 960 Evo 250GB M.2-2280 Solid State Drive ($129.99 @ B&H)
Storage: Western Digital BLACK SERIES 2TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($123.45 @ SuperBiiz)
Video Card: EVGA GeForce GTX 1070 8GB SC GAMING ACX 3.0 Black Edition Video Card ($374.00 @ Amazon)
Case: Fractal Design Define Nano S Mini ITX Desktop Case ($64.99 @ NCIX US)
Power Supply: Corsair RMx 650W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($111.86 @ Amazon)
Total: $1479.94
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2017-04-12 12:18 EDT-0400

Drop that shitty AIO and replace it with a Noctua NH-U14s. It will run cooler and quieter.

 

[S0cc3rpunk]

Hi Gaf i want to upgrade my psu the one i'm using right now is called AL-D500EXP Max500W

but i reeally want to get this one VGA 700 B1, 80+ Bronze 700W, Power Supply 100-B1-0700-K1

my cpu: intel i5 4670k
GPU: EVGA GTX 1050 ti SC gaming 4GB
Motherboard: ASUS Z87-k
Ram: 8GB GDDR5

i would like to upgrade it so i can put a better GPU

 

[b0bbyJ03]

Last summer I parted out a 2013 Ivy build that I had delidded and used Collaborators Pro between the die and IHS. It was exactly the same as when it had been applied three years prior.

I've been using Thermal Grizzly Conductonaut for Skylake and Many. Liquid metal will not harden between the die and IHS.

Thank you. Appreciate the response. I guess I'll use it for the die/IHS only then. Last question, is everyone using an adhesive to put the IHS back on? I read a comment on reddit where a user said that he didn't and the PCB on Kaby is so thin that it warped it. Anyway, can anyone recommend an adhesive?

 

[ColdDeckEd]

Thank you. Appreciate the response. I guess I'll use it for the die/IHS only then. Last question, is everyone using an adhesive to put the IHS back on? I read a comment on reddit where a user said that he didn't and the PCB on Kaby is so thin that it warped it. Anyway, can anyone recommend an adhesive?

If you want it to look stock use an rtv silicon. I used loctite gel control on the four corners.

 

[PlayALLtheGames]

Hi Gaf i want to upgrade my psu the one i'm using right now is called AL-D500EXP Max500W

but i reeally want to get this one VGA 700 B1, 80+ Bronze 700W, Power Supply 100-B1-0700-K1

my cpu: intel i5 4670k
GPU: EVGA GTX 1050 ti SC gaming 4GB
Motherboard: ASUS Z87-k
Ram: 8GB GDDR5

i would like to upgrade it so i can put a better GPU

You don't need a 700w PSU no matter what GPU you're planning to get. The PSU you have is fine but if you really want to upgrade just get like a 550 or 600 and save some money over a 700.

I always recommend modular PSUs to save yourself extra cables and cable management but they're a little pricier so up to you.

 

[SweetTeddie]

I'm looking at building a G4560 & RX480 computer instead of buying an i5 laptop. How compromised would the G4560 be for general use like web browsing and streaming? I don't do anything heavy and would only use it for light gaming. The next step up in CPU jumps to about $250 for an i5 7500 which I think isn't needed.

 

[ColdDeckEd]

I'm looking at building a G4560 & RX480 computer instead of buying an i5 laptop. How compromised would the G4560 be for general use like web browsing and streaming? I don't do anything heavy and would only use it for light gaming. The next step up in CPU jumps to about $250 for an i5 7500 which I think isn't needed.

If its for light gaming, why not go for a 4gb 470/570? You can some great deals on them. Though I would wait until literally next week when the rx 5x0 series will be out.

Are you the one doing the streaming, or you mean watching streams? If just watching, a g4560 is more than enough.

 

[SRG01]

I'm pricing out a new build. Trying to keep this inside a micro-ITX but here's my first pass on PCPP. Not sure the video card and h60 will fit but I'd like to keep the box as small and quiet as within reason. Any help would be appreciated. I was thinking about going for a Ryzen 5 but I don't think I'd see much benefit in photoshop would I? Also came in a little over budget, so trying to trim fat where necessary.

• What country are you in? USA
• What are you using the system for? 1080p gaming for now, possibly VR in the future. Graphic Design (photoshop CS)
• What's your budget? $1300-1400, Windows license, monitors not needed,
• If you’re doing professional work, what software do you need to use? Photoshop CS
• If you're gaming, what is your monitor resolution? most likely single monitor 1080p, but I have triple monitor setup (3 x 1080p)

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: Intel Core i7-7700K 4.2GHz Quad-Core Processor ($338.79 @ SuperBiiz)
CPU Cooler: Corsair H60 54.0 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler ($64.88 @ OutletPC)
Motherboard: Asus Z170I PRO GAMING Mini ITX LGA1151 Motherboard ($151.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Memory: Corsair Vengeance LPX 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3000 Memory ($119.99 @ Amazon)
Storage: Samsung 960 Evo 250GB M.2-2280 Solid State Drive ($129.99 @ B&H)
Storage: Western Digital BLACK SERIES 2TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($123.45 @ SuperBiiz)
Video Card: EVGA GeForce GTX 1070 8GB SC GAMING ACX 3.0 Black Edition Video Card ($374.00 @ Amazon)
Case: Fractal Design Define Nano S Mini ITX Desktop Case ($64.99 @ NCIX US)
Power Supply: Corsair RMx 650W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($111.86 @ Amazon)
Total: $1479.94
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2017-04-12 12:18 EDT-0400

Seconded with droping the H60. You're literally better off with an decent air cooler as it'll have better performance with fewer points of failure.

 

[PlayALLtheGames]

I ordered the Rockit 88 delidding tool for my 7700K and I'll probably be doing it this weekend but I have a question for the people with experience. I noticed the majority of people delidding are using liquid metal TIMs. I've had some interesting experiences with these, as I used Coollaboratory Liquid Pro on a 3770k (not for delidding, just between the IHS and the heatsink) and after I removed the heatsink (2 years later) it was completely dry and impossible to remove. I had to sand down the top of the IHS and the heatsink as well. What worries me is that if I use liquid metal for the delid and for some reason I have to reapply it in the future then sanding down that part of the processor won't be an option. I was thinking about using MX-4 between the core and the IHS. Anyone have any thoughts on this? Are the temp differences between the liquid metal TIMs and a thermal paste like MX-4 that big or is it just a few degrees? Thanks.

Let me know how that goes, I think I'm going to grab the same tool.

On that note, thought this was funny from another forum:

Hello guys. The idle temps on my 4770k are around 21C (I have a custom water cooling loop), I have heard of people deliding their 4770k and shaving off 20c. If this is the case, if I delid mine will my CPU run a 1c? Maybe silly question I am just wondering.

 

[Luke_Wal]

What do you guys think of this build? I'm a first timer: how well would this run for strictly 1080?

AMD FX 6300 Six Core 3.5GHz (4.1GHz Turbo) Processor
NVIDIA GTX 750ti 2GB GDDR5 Graphics Processor
8GB 1600MHz DDR3 Ram
NZXT S340 Gaming Case (Black or White)
650w 80 Plus Certified Power Supply (or better)
150Mbs USB WiFi Adapter
1TB 7200RPM Hard Drive

For $499, is this a good deal? I could get it with a 1050 for $549 instead, if that would make a huge difference.

 

[ahdurian]

hey all. not sure if this is the right to ask this. if it isn't, i can move my post over there.

For the past day and a half my dual monitor set-up hasn't been working. I only have one HDMI port, so one monitor is hooked up directly via HDMI. the other one is hooked up via DVI to HDMI connector. for the past two years it's been working fine, but now only one monitor or the other is connecting at a time. just started happening when I turned on the computer.
I've tried both monitors separately on consoles, tried changing around which monitor goes to which port, tried switching cables, and nothing is working.
any ideas?

 

[PlayALLtheGames]

What do you guys think of this build? I'm a first timer: how well would this run for strictly 1080?

AMD FX 6300 Six Core 3.5GHz (4.1GHz Turbo) Processor
NVIDIA GTX 750ti 2GB GDDR5 Graphics Processor
8GB 1600MHz DDR3 Ram
NZXT S340 Gaming Case (Black or White)
650w 80 Plus Certified Power Supply (or better)
150Mbs USB WiFi Adapter
1TB 7200RPM Hard Drive

For $499, is this a good deal? I could get it with a 1050 for $549 instead, if that would make a huge difference.

I don't know where you're buying from but using Amazon as a reference: a 750Ti is $110, a 1050 is $109, and a 1050 Ti is $140. So, you can get a 4GB card for $30 more. I guarantee you'll be happy you made that decision.

PSU is overkill. Get a 500w and save over a 650, then put that towards a SSD; at least like a 64GB one for OS and some games.

 

[opticalmace]

What do you guys think of this build? I'm a first timer: how well would this run for strictly 1080?

AMD FX 6300 Six Core 3.5GHz (4.1GHz Turbo) Processor
NVIDIA GTX 750ti 2GB GDDR5 Graphics Processor
8GB 1600MHz DDR3 Ram
NZXT S340 Gaming Case (Black or White)
650w 80 Plus Certified Power Supply (or better)
150Mbs USB WiFi Adapter
1TB 7200RPM Hard Drive

For $499, is this a good deal? I could get it with a 1050 for $549 instead, if that would make a huge difference.

Awful, don't buy this. Instead fill out the survey from the OP and post it here.

 

[1upsuper]

Hi, everybody. My mom needs a new desktop and I'm trying to find something that suits her needs. I was hoping to get a recommendation from you guys on an appropriate PC to get her.

She mainly uses the computer to browse the internet, download and view Office documents, write Word documents, and store pictures and videos. That's about it. Her current desktop which she has had for about eight years just died recently. She would like something that just suits her needs and isn't slow as molasses like her last computer.

I know absolutely nothing about building computers. Is there a decent pre-built PC I can get for her from an online retailer? Her needs are pretty simple so I don't really see a need to custom build it, but maybe I'm off-base here. She's currently using an old laptop that is very slow and I'd like to get her a new computer as soon as possible. Price range is ideally around $400 but I have no idea if that's enough to get what she needs. I can raise it if need be.

Thank you. I'm sorry this wasn't very specific. Like I said, I'm really out of my depth when it comes to getting a new computer.

 

[Pop-O-Matic]

Anyone got a guide that explains memory overclocking to me like I'm a fucking child?

 

[Mad Max]

Hi, everybody. My mom needs a new desktop and I'm trying to find something that suits her needs. I was hoping to get a recommendation from you guys on an appropriate PC to get her.

She mainly uses the computer to browse the internet, download and view Office documents, write Word documents, and store pictures and videos. That's about it. Her current desktop which she has had for about eight years just died recently. She would like something that just suits her needs and isn't slow as molasses like her last computer.

I know absolutely nothing about building computers. Is there a decent pre-built PC I can get for her from an online retailer? Her needs are pretty simple so I don't really see a need to custom build it, but maybe I'm off-base here. She's currently using an old laptop that is very slow and I'd like to get her a new computer as soon as possible. Price range is ideally around $400 but I have no idea if that's enough to get what she needs. I can raise it if need be.

Thank you. I'm sorry this wasn't very specific. Like I said, I'm really out of my depth when it comes to getting a new computer.

You could get something like the budget build from the OP and leave out the GPU (don't need it unless gaming) and add a 120GB or 250GB SSD. This should give you a very capable PC for under $400. If you're reasonably handy you could build it yourself, but if you can't be bothered there should be shops that will build it for you for about $50.

 

[LordAlu]

Hi, everybody. My mom needs a new desktop and I'm trying to find something that suits her needs. I was hoping to get a recommendation from you guys on an appropriate PC to get her.

She mainly uses the computer to browse the internet, download and view Office documents, write Word documents, and store pictures and videos. That's about it. Her current desktop which she has had for about eight years just died recently. She would like something that just suits her needs and isn't slow as molasses like her last computer.

I know absolutely nothing about building computers. Is there a decent pre-built PC I can get for her from an online retailer? Her needs are pretty simple so I don't really see a need to custom build it, but maybe I'm off-base here. She's currently using an old laptop that is very slow and I'd like to get her a new computer as soon as possible. Price range is ideally around $400 but I have no idea if that's enough to get what she needs. I can raise it if need be.

Thank you. I'm sorry this wasn't very specific. Like I said, I'm really out of my depth when it comes to getting a new computer.

You could look at something like a Gigabyte Brix or Intel NUC?